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Nitrous for the launch

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Got these .040 over, 10.5:1 100mm stroke pistons, Launch or bust.
 
Whos is using Aem ems/dsmlink etc. to control there nitrous? Is it a wet kit or a dry kit? Are you adjusting the fuel with the fuel jet or through the program?
 
Whos is using Aem ems/dsmlink etc. to control there nitrous? Is it a wet kit or a dry kit? Are you adjusting the fuel with the fuel jet or through the program?


We are using a wet kit with ECMLINK. Fuel tuning is done with the jets.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10150721725618262

This is a current video of the launch, 50 shot, wet, 2 step is at 5500, nitrous turns on at 2900 and shuts off at 5200.
 
still dont work...even logged in to FB :banghead: means a coulpe of things. you have to be a friend to view, or its been moved

You know what that meens, you will have to become my friend asshole :D
 
You know what that meens, you will have to become my friend asshole :D

You know the best parts of the video....The other guys heating the track and pulling the rope so the other car could do a burn out and hook and the Talon just lining up and going. Talon winning priceless. Oh Im not and asshole, Im a whole ass :thumb:
 
Whos is using Aem ems/dsmlink etc. to control there nitrous? Is it a wet kit or a dry kit? Are you adjusting the fuel with the fuel jet or through the program?

AEM, dry single fogger adding fuel through the injectors.
 
I just sprayed my car for the first time on the new motor. Its weird the old motor would flash up to 2600-and climb pretty good to 3000 without the nitrous on my restalled Pats converter. I had the N20 come on at 2700 before. The new motor with the Kelfords has a problem getting to 2700 to begin with for the bottle to hit.

I am going to have to start playing with timing. A/fs on the foot brake are 12.0-11.7 is timing is -5 vaccuum 22 degrees and around 4psi (aem ems) its 14 degress at 2500/3000 rpm points. Maybe some cam gear adjustments will help.
 
I just sprayed my car for the first time on the new motor. Its weird the old motor would flash up to 2600-and climb pretty good to 3000 without the nitrous on my restalled Pats converter. I had the N20 come on at 2700 before. The new motor with the Kelfords has a problem getting to 2700 to begin with for the bottle to hit.

I am going to have to start playing with timing. A/fs on the foot brake are 12.0-11.7 is timing is -5 vaccuum 22 degrees and around 4psi (aem ems) its 14 degress at 2500/3000 rpm points. Maybe some cam gear adjustments will help.

What did you change on the motor? You may just have to lower the nitrous. Restalled stockers can only get so loose, I've had a couple customers with big cam motors we couldn't get up past 2500 without juice. Cam timing will make the largest difference of any change, but 14* seems kinda low for ignition advance as well. I've had the best luck improving stall by advancing intake and retarding exhaust
 
Motor is still 2.4. Old motor had fp2 dropped straight in this has kelford 272 degreed in ported head and oversized valves. Compression and everything is the same bottom end has heavier parts. Same converter. Old motor would flash 2600. And would get to 3k after 5 seconds on motor. I am going to look at my old timing map and see where it was at, and mess with the cam gear timing to try and get it
Moving a little better.

I am going to add mph/boost to it to take all the laziness out. Prob hit it to 25 mph or 15psi which will take out the lag. I only held it to 4300/10psi

Timing on the spray is real conservative right now also maybe 9 degrees of timing. I am on straight 93 octane. Plugs looked great yesterday, going to start messing with timing a little, and cam timing see what I can get out of it.

This is a good little post by Kiggly on his site, for reference or some ideas.

Kiggly Racing - kigglyracing.com
 
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