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Night 4

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knochgoon24

DSM Wiseman
6,135
97
Jan 29, 2008
Troy, Michigan
Well, I originally wanted to be finished up by the end of tonight, but with the problems I've had, I'm glad I'm this far.

As for the work I got done tonight.

I got the head all cleaned up.
Before:
View attachment 1694

After:
View attachment 1695
Actually, I cleaned it up a bit more than that, but didn't take a new picture.

I also got the battery relocated to the trunk and the power cable ran.
View attachment 1696

The cam caps were sanded down to compensate for the amount taken off the camshaft journals.
View attachment 1697

And I even cleaned up the valves some.
View attachment 1698
(Shows before and after.)

I tried to get the block cleaned up, but ran out of scotch-brite pads. I need to buy some more so I can finish.
Before:
View attachment 1699

After: (Seafoam, Gasket Remover, and a Razor Blade)
View attachment 1700

Once I get some new valve stem seals, I'll reassemble the head and get it mounted back on the block. From there, it's all reassembly.
I'm going to pick up the distribution block and fuse holder today. I also need to grab a plug for the new alternator from the junkyard. I didn't notice that it was a 1g style, not a 2g.

IF YOU'RE FROM THE PITTSBURGH AREA AND HAVE SOME SPARE VALVE STEM SEALS, I'LL BUY THEM FROM YOU.
-I damaged 2 and can't find a place locally that stocks them, even as a whole set. (Actually, I need 8 now.)
 
I have some you can hve just pay shipping its a brand new pack of 16
But the car is. Looking good nice that your taking time to do it right and extend your deadline keep it up.
 
The head deck looks very clean. What was your process to clean?
 
I would not suggest using scotch brite pads to resurce a head or block. It could lead to improper seal of a headgasket. And in no way should you sand down anything by hand like the cams or cam caps just because there is a lot of precise tolerances that if out of spec could cost you your motor.
 
That's where I had planned on moving my battery. Looks like it fits great, but it isn't going to work with my battery box, they are huge! Maybe I just won't use the box.
 
I don't get why you don't take the head to a machine shop to have it resurfaced why you had it apart.
 
Are you planning on putting in new valve guides as well? Might as well take the head to the machine shop to get it resurfaced, valve guides and an angle job to boot.
 
The head gasket will be a Felpro composite gasket. Everything I've read said that the green scotch-brite pads leave a good sealing surface for that type. Sure I could pull the block and have both of the surfaces machined so I can run a MLS gasket, but that's not possible in my situation. The pads barely took all the old gasket gunk off, let alone mar the head so bad that the gasket won't seal. A composite gasket needs a bit of roughness.

I would have loved to get it all professionally done with new valve guides and valves, but I don't have the money or time for that. The car needed to be back together yesterday. Seriously. I had to call off work this weekend. This car has been a budget build from the beginning. It goes fast for cheap. Almost everything on the car is used.

I'll have the valve stem seals tomorrow. Advance auto is getting me a set. I can pick them up at 7:30am. Thanks for all the offers though. I didn't think Advance would be able to get them so soon.

As for the cam caps, I did EXACTLY as I was told by 3 different cam manufacturers/grinders. I measured each journal then sanded the bottom of the cam cap down to make up the difference. It won't leave a perfectly circular bore, but it will work fine. I plastigaged the tolerances and they are now within spec.

If I understand SCCA and NHRA rules correctly (there's a chance I don't), the sealed AGM cell batteries don't need boxes, but they do need a tie down. I don't have a tie down yet, but I will install one before I race.

To clean the head and block, I'm first using a razor, followed by Seafoam spray on cleaner and a half hour soak, followed by a Scotch-Brite bad to remove some crud. After that it's a heavy spray of Permatex Gasket Remover (aka. paint stripper) for another half hour soak. Then I take the Scotch-Brite pad to it again. At this point, it had a pretty good shine, but it still had residue. I used some more Seafoam in combination with the Scotch pad to get it all off. It took me about 4 hours to clean the head. I roughly cleaned inside the runners too.

The test will be whether it can hold the 23psi I like to run with my small16g. I have ARP head bolts, so I'm really not worried. I'll just heat cycle it once and retorque.
 
Wow, really nice job cleaning the head! :thumb:
 
Nice job! Looking good, and clean now. Been following along, nice progress. Keep it up!
 
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