New to the 4g motor help!!

[DsmDeetch]

New here bare with me I need guidance …

Hello all, I recently bought a 4g63 n/t (didn’t know) it was n/t my goal here was to build a motor in my garage and source out a shell along the way, so as I get into my new 6bolt I quickly see I don’t have oil drains etc after checking the seria number and confirming it’s a n/t I go and see the little differences the many threads have shown me , I went back to the guy and he offered me a 4g63t block stripped down but it’s currently at .020 over needing to go .040 over assuming there’s scoring sooooo

here’s where I sit my end game is finding my 2g
Awd specifically
- I want to do the 6 bolt block forged internal , 7 bolt head stock at first

(Also I would rather not drill and add squirters)

—Do I use the n/t block without squirters at a standard 2.0 bore , hone it out and proceed with adding knock sensor ect

orr can I safely run a .040 over 4g63t block with an end goal of 550-650 hp I’ve got a precision 6262 I wanna run

I’m honestly still leaning to the .040 over route but I’ve only ever played with my 420a

 

[pauleyman]

I'm in favor of the nt block but I have questions.
Why don't you want to add squirters? Machine shop has to work the block anyway. What's the big deal?

 

[DsmDeetch]

I just have my own mixed feelings on adding things that aren’t supposed to be there if that makes any sense Idn if it’s just a bother in my head or not I’ve also read that forged internals won’t really need them as much as stock internals but than also read there would be high oil pressure possibly cause I g seals to blow out on things like the turbo, Idn if that holds any merit but it’s also I was expecting a 63t and everything that came with it and when the motor came it was different so I might just be looking for a reason for the turbo block

 

[pauleyman]

I'll summarize this way. Not supposed to be there? There isn't a separate 4g63t block. They're the same block. One just received more machining when built. So to have a 4g63t as built when new, add the extra machining it never received.

 

[DsmDeetch]

Yea that’s mitsu having those in as there’s planned to be and me having a machine shop doing it but I suppose they would know what there doing

 

[DSMPT]

I always prefer non turbo block if it's available when I build engine. Without oil squirters won't be a problem unless you do road racing, rally or some sort of endurance racing.
As for .040" over bore, very much it depends on the block condition and tuning. If it's safe or not with your desired HP, if strictly speaking, it's not safe. You would possibly crack cylinders. But yes you can run. It's just nobody can tell you how long you can run. Maybe nothing would happen for many years but maybe it would be cracked in a week. A couple of blocks I have cracked were all .040" over and non filled. But not all .040" over blocks got cracked. If you would be ok with filling the block, that would be very beneficial.
As for the knock sensor, some non turbo block originally have a threaded hole for knock sensor, some don't.