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New Timing Belt = No Start

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GST Tye

Probationary Member
19
0
Jul 15, 2009
Cincinnati, Ohio
Lots of posts about this, but haven't been able to track down my problem...yet.

98 GST Spyder, just hit 59,000 original miles so I figured it was time to change the timing belt. I also decided to do:

Balance shaft elimination
New water pump and thermostat
New heater hoses and radiator hoses
New K&N filter
New FMIC
New recirc bov
New Downpipe
New Fidanza adjustable cams
New Crank/Harmonic Dampner
New short shifter
New fuel filter

Previously done in last 3,000 miles - plugs and wires

Had the car apart for a few days and did all the mods, put it back together - turns over and over and over...but NO SPARK NO FUEL. Timing was one tooth off, also didn't feel like the crank position sensor was getting the proper signal - so we took it all back apart. Re-read the timing directions 42 times and we are dead nuts on every mark and the new Crank Position Sensor is correctly hooked up. We're not 180* off on the t-belt, either (dowel pins up).

Still, NO SPARK, NO FUEL. we've checked all grounds, hooked up the car to a jump cart. We've checked all fuses (except I just read up on the MPI this a.m.). I get a check engine light and 0 boost when I attempt the start - so I feel like that rules out the ECU.

Plugs are all correct in the coils, I have a loud click/pop from what seems like the plug underneath the throttle body elbow/upper IC pipe, which I believe is the throttle position sensor.

I have fuel in the rail. I plan on changing the battery today as my next step. What else am I missing? Camshaft sensor?

I have a multimeter but when it comes to the electrical stuff I've read I just keep scratching my head. I hate to give up at this point, but I'm feeling defeated! Just hard to belive that something would be terribly wrong on a car that was running in top condition before upgrades!

Anyone in Cincinnati/NKY want to come help :D? I feel like an idiot.

Update, not the battery or cam angle sensor.
 
RESOLVED

Checked fuel pressure, pulled the coil pack, checked timing again and finally pull a code. I found the problem after just sitting and staring at the engine for an hour.

This was something that I haven't read about before and didn't even think to look for. After buying a new CPS from Mitsu we slapped it on and tried it all again. All the symptoms pointed to a CPS or CAS but both were new, how could they still be bad?

Well, they weren't. But it helps if you don't flip the CPS over and install it upside down. And, bingo, runs like new. Like we all thought - something easy and stupid was just on wrong. It helped when I was able to pull the CPS code and limit my random searches to just one area. It had been so long since I had the CPS on there I just put it back on the way it fit without questioning it.

Going to get the rest of the car back together tonight and on the road, hopefully I don't find anything else during tests!

Lesson in this thread – the CPS can go on two ways, make sure the head of the CPS is sitting in the little indentation (CPS head facing the engine) for proper installation. I'm an idiot, hopefully I can save another idiot the headaches with my mistakes.
 
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