New Timing Belt = No Start

[GST Tye]

Lots of posts about this, but haven't been able to track down my problem...yet.

98 GST Spyder, just hit 59,000 original miles so I figured it was time to change the timing belt. I also decided to do:

Balance shaft elimination
New water pump and thermostat
New heater hoses and radiator hoses
New K&N filter
New FMIC
New recirc bov
New Downpipe
New Fidanza adjustable cams
New Crank/Harmonic Dampner
New short shifter
New fuel filter

Previously done in last 3,000 miles - plugs and wires

Had the car apart for a few days and did all the mods, put it back together - turns over and over and over...but NO SPARK NO FUEL. Timing was one tooth off, also didn't feel like the crank position sensor was getting the proper signal - so we took it all back apart. Re-read the timing directions 42 times and we are dead nuts on every mark and the new Crank Position Sensor is correctly hooked up. We're not 180* off on the t-belt, either (dowel pins up).

Still, NO SPARK, NO FUEL. we've checked all grounds, hooked up the car to a jump cart. We've checked all fuses (except I just read up on the MPI this a.m.). I get a check engine light and 0 boost when I attempt the start - so I feel like that rules out the ECU.

Plugs are all correct in the coils, I have a loud click/pop from what seems like the plug underneath the throttle body elbow/upper IC pipe, which I believe is the throttle position sensor.

I have fuel in the rail. I plan on changing the battery today as my next step. What else am I missing? Camshaft sensor?

I have a multimeter but when it comes to the electrical stuff I've read I just keep scratching my head. I hate to give up at this point, but I'm feeling defeated! Just hard to belive that something would be terribly wrong on a car that was running in top condition before upgrades!

Anyone in Cincinnati/NKY want to come help ? I feel like an idiot.

Update, not the battery or cam angle sensor.

 

[Absit]

Crank sensor is good, how about cam sensor?

 

[GST Tye]

Both the Crank and Cam sensors are brand new - installed the crank sensor yesterday and cam sensor today.

 

[Absit]

My bad, didn't see the update. I'd swap ECUs. And the TPS is on the front side of the TB, underneath is the ISC.

There are also relays to be checked..

 

[GST Tye]

Checked the ISC, seems to be right at 39 ohms on each coil, thought the norm for this was 28-32. I'm positive that it's the ISC making the click/pop noise when I turn the key to the "on" position.

You mentioned the ECU...even if I'm getting the check engine light and 0 boost indicators you think it could be suspect?

 

[Absit]

Yes, especially with a goofy ISC.

 

[Calan]

Did you check all the fuses to see if you popped one while disconnecting or reconnecting the battery?

Pull all the plugs to the coils, PTU, and anything else you touched and plug them back up.

 

[Absit]

OP mentions checking all the fuses.

 

[2ndGenTurbo]

I blew my altenator fuse once and my car wouldn't start.

 

[GST Tye]

Okay, I have unplugged everything, including the ECU and other items I didn't even touch. I have triple checked the fuses, nothing that shows signs of problems. Can't find any issues there.

Pulled the ECU out and opened it up, looks pretty clean...nothing that concerns me.

Pulled the MPI relay, three of the four sockets (whatever you want to call them) tested @ 12, the third at 0. It was, left to right, 12, 12, 0, 12. Normal?

I put some ECU phots in an album: Welcome to Kodak Gallery!

Well...anyone want a free car? It's not currently running

 

[Bluesideup]

Are there any updates to this? I'm having the same problem with my '95.

 

[GST Tye]

No updates other than I still haven't found a solution. Car has been sitting now for 5 days because I haven't come up with or found any smart ideas.

I contacted a guy about some ECU repair, after a few emails back and forth he was convinced it wasn't the ECU. I don't want to just go out and buy another ECU that is just as old as mine and waste even more money - this was a working ECU when we started - why would another ECU pulled from a "working car" have any chance at a higher success rate...just being a pessimist.

 

[Calan]

I think it has to be something simple... something overlooked from all the work you've done.

 

[96 420a-t]

How sure are you about your timing marks?

 

[burkgonzo]

Gas in the car?

 

[GST Tye]

Gas is in the car

We are timed as precise as it can get, there is no question about that - we've taken the car apart and put it back together three times now rechecking everything.

 

[delta448]

Which style CAS did you put on it? I really think this is likely where the problem is.

Got a logger/code reader?

 

[GST Tye]

CAS directly from the dealership. I don't have a logger or code reader.

 

[delta448]

Next step, verify that pin 2 of your CAS plug has continuity with ECU pin 88 and that pin 2 of the CPS plug has continuity with ECU pin 89.

RRE Instructions

2G Turbo ECU Pinouts

 

[EC17PSE]

Would it not start if the BOV is not recirculated? As he didn't say its ecmlink!! So will be stalling or sputtering from the start! Just a thought as its not been said I don't think??

 

[GST Tye]

The BOV is recirculating. I don't have an ecmlink.

What #'s am I looking for between the ECU and CAS pins? Just learned (because of this project) how my multimeter works...I think

 

[phunny]

could be a relay somewhere.

You have your 30 posts now hush.

I firmly believe it's the CAS. Have you checked the wiring to the CAS and verified no shorts or anything?

 

[JwpRider]

Other members are suggesting the sensors. So, Here is how the ECU operates concerning the Crank and Cam sensors. Maybe this will help...

ENGINE START-UP MODE
This is an open loop mode. The following actions occur when the starter motor is engaged:

The auto shutdown and fuel pump relays are energized. If the ECU does not receive the camshaft and crankshaft signals within approximately one second, these relays are de-energized.
The PCM energizes all fuel injectors until it determines crankshaft position from the camshaft and crankshaft signals. The PCM determines crankshaft position within one engine revolution. After the crankshaft position has been determined, the PCM energizes the fuel injectors in sequence. The PCM adjusts the injector pulse width and synchronizes the fuel injectors by controlling the fuel injectors' ground paths.

Here is a link to some diagrams that may help...
In need of Electrical help BAD - DSM Forums

 

[GST Tye]

Thanks for the quick test and link...hopefully I can get back to working on the car during this week sometime, to be continued...

 

[GST Tye]

Next step, verify that pin 2 of your CAS plug has continuity with ECU pin 88 and that pin 2 of the CPS plug has continuity with ECU pin 89.

RRE Instructions

2G Turbo ECU Pinouts

Car passed all these tests for the CPS and CAS and the tests listed in the OP manual, it's been a two month search, ugh. I have found a code reader to borrow on Sunday.