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New motor, smoking out of exhaust

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stroh

20+ Year Contributor
84
5
Oct 17, 2002
Freeport, Illinois
So my car is smoking out of the exhaust. Mods are as follows and everything is new with 0 miles on it.

2.4L 4G64 block (6bolt) with 4G63 head. Wiseco pistons, eagle rods, arp everything, BSE, o-ringed block, mls 87.5mm head gasket, stock crank, port and polished head, 1mm oversized valves, bc springs, 272 cams, FRH intake manifold, DNP T3 manifold, Garrett gt3582r with correct oil and coolant lines. PCV valve removed and both ports on valve cover going to a catch can. Alot of other stuff thats probly not important.

The car has about 5-10min of idle time on it. The first time I started it oil pressure was about 75psi with a ported ofh. Blew out the seals on the turbonetics journal bearing turbo. Took turbo off and there was oil everywhere in exhaust housing an o2 housing. I now have oil pressure down to about 30psi at idle. Put on the gt35 with oil restrictor and inline filter. -10 drain tube with no big bends. Started the car again and still puffing smoke at idle. Seems to be white. Im not sure if its from all the oil that was leaking past the other turbo or something else. Since it is a new motor will it take awhile for the rings to seat properly? Im just not sure what it could be because everything on the car is new. I have yet to do a compression test. I have drained oil and coolant and everything looks fine. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
 
Well, if there is oil in the exhaust, it is going to burn out. But a new motor and new/cleaned parts is going to smoke a lot (in the engine bay, anyways) and your rings aren't seated/engine isn't anywhere near broken in. Stop idling it unless absolutely necessary and go break it in. Once you've broken it in you can do a compression/leakdown test. If you're taking it out to break in and notice it's just blowing tons of smoke out then bring it back and check it out.
 
Also, check your spark plugs. Make sure they're gapped right. Mine were gapped wrong, and my car gave me hell until I found out what the problem was
 
I wouldn't worry to much. Sounds like there is alot of oil sitting in the exhaust still. Just let it burn off .I just got done with build on a new motor. Smoked a little for maybe 5 minutes maybe 10. Once the rings set themselves the smoke should go away. Yeah don't sit there and let the it just idle. You need to be reving the throw the rpm range. not just quick revs. like 1k to 2k , hold for a minute. let it idle. then 1k to 3k and then 1k to 4k . etc etc. If you let it just idle you going to cut a grove/lip at the top of cylinder and when you go to real drive it and bring it high in the rpms the rods, pistons stretch just enough your going to smash a ring into that grove and possibly break a ring and ruin your day. So yeah after about 30 minutes Change the oil , oil filter and clean out the preturbo oil filter. Then take the car out and start breakin in the motor.
 
So car is still smoking like crazy out of the exhaust. Tried moving car and varying idle, but it can't be because of the rings. I checked compression and it was 160 all the way across. I did notice when I pulled the spark plug closest to the timing belt, smoke came rolling out of the hole for awhile. I'm guessing that cylinder is what is causing all the smoke from the exhaust. Thinking I might need to pull the head and see what is going on and take a closer look. Fml:cry:
 
Is your catch can vented? It could be excessive crankcase pressure. I had an inline check valve hooked up backwards on one of my lines and it smoked like a freight train! I don't remember if it smoked at idle, but as soon as I hit the gas I filled the neighborhood with smoke in seconds!

Pull the VC and make sure all the valve stem seals are seated right. There isn't much holding them down and maybe a few popped off the seat due to improper install.
 
Its a Mishimoto catch can like this. I have both ports on valve cover going to it. No pcv valve or check valve. Ill pull valve cover off and take a look once.
 

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You can always weld fittings onto valve cover for larger lines. I run a electric pump hooked up to a boost switch with 12an fittings on my valve cover. I have 2 lines on valve cover and a drain to balance shaft inpsection hole.
 
You can always weld fittings onto valve cover for larger lines. I run a electric pump hooked up to a boost switch with 12an fittings on my valve cover. I have 2 lines on valve cover and a drain to balance shaft inpsection hole.

So whats the point of your catch can if its draining back into the engine? to look cool?
 
I leaned this while doing an engine rebuild of my car: take out the thermostat before the first start! Otherwise the engine will overheat because the thermo wont open for a bit. which also means your stuck at idle because revving = very quick overheat. (this isn't your issue, but i just thought id say)
 
Its a Mishimoto catch can like this. I have both ports on valve cover going to it. No pcv valve or check valve.

If each valve cover vent attaches to one of the catch can ports, then how does the pressure get out?
 
If each valve cover vent attaches to one of the catch can ports, then how does the pressure get out?

Exactly!

To the OP: you should have seen how much smoke was coming out my exhaust when there was nowhere for my crankcase pressure to go! Imagine throwing a couple quarts of oil into a fire! I replaced a turbo before I figured it out, but it was a 14b anyway...
 
So the problem is fixed. I had the original valve cover on the car. I swapped it with my hyundai valve cover and all is good now. I'm guessing the baffle system was plugged maybe and there is a bunch of goo in it. Thanks for the help.
 
But if you don't route that catch can different it probably going to happen again. The catch can needs to be vented or best option routed back to the turbo inlet.

So if I ran 1 line from the valve cover to the catch can. Then run the other line from the catch can to the intake pipe pre-turbo. That way it will create a vacuum and help pull the pressure out. Sound about right?
 
Yep, that would work just fine. It wouldn't hurt to reconnect the PCV valve and hose too.
 
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