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New Garrett T3 Turbo

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Harriz801

15+ Year Contributor
187
1
Jan 12, 2005
Holland, Michigan
I get my new garrett T3 today. Im getting this turbo because i have a friend who had it that wasnt using it. My stock turbo is shot and is hardly pushing any boost. With this Garrett T3 what all will i have to buy to make this turbo work on my car. Im gonna need all the help on can get on this one because i dont know much about garrett turbo's. If someone could, please break down a list of parts that will have to be installed along with this turbo. Also is this garrett turbo even worth putting all this work into or is it just a waste of time, what does it compare to like the Evo 3 16G MHI. Please help me out!
 
Hans racecraft sell an adapter T25-T3 bolt on for 9X bucks. When I ordered mine, the guy said they sell close to 73 a day, weither or not that was true I do not know, no do I care. I got mine for my T4E/T3 and am happy with it. I do not exactly have 4-600 for a new T3 manifold right now.
Don't listen to those guys, you can always buy a new larger compressor at a later date. Even a Plain T3 will outflow the stocker by quite a bit.

And I cannot compare because T3's came in several variants... which you did not list you compressor ratio so...
 
Bostedquest said:
Hans racecraft sell an adapter T25-T3 bolt on for 9X bucks. When I ordered mine, the guy said they sell close to 73 a day, weither or not that was true I do not know, no do I care. I got mine for my T4E/T3 and am happy with it. I do not exactly have 4-600 for a new T3 manifold right now.
Don't listen to those guys, you can always buy a new larger compressor at a later date. Even a Plain T3 will outflow the stocker by quite a bit.

And I cannot compare because T3's came in several variants... which you did not list you compressor ratio so...
Ok.. but what about the oil/drain lines? And the custom downpipe that will need to be made to fit onto the turbo?
 
plus the adapter will leak.

you will need a different manifold flanged for t3 turbos, get the oil lines, AND a garret o2 housing. If it uses a V-band clamp for the exhaust, you will also need the v-band downpipe.

If I were you, I'd sell it on eBay and save the money for a mitsu flanged turbo
 
got fuel? :thumb:

















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As I see it the 60 trims can supply about 300 crank horsepower at 20 psi and still be around 70% efficient. way batter than a t25 from what I've heard. Which t3 is it?

BUT. . .
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Looking at the 14B compressor map (remember airflow here is kgrams/sec not lbs/min) the 14B should be able to support 350 crank horsepower at the same boost and efficiency.

IMHO. . .
If you go garrett it is easy to upgrade to bigger after this t3 install: $400 ebay special for a 60-1 t04. BIG!

AND if you go mitsu it is easy to upgrade: port exhaust housing to 7cm ($150?) and drop in a 18g chra ($437 shipped) ...OR you're now flanged correctly for a 20G ($???)

I think if you have a deal with the T3. stick with it it will be cheaper as you mature the car. AND, it's a hell of alot better than a t25

EDIT: but if this is the only turbo you want to put in, then I would definately not pick the t3. you will get beat by a cocky crx with a big front mount where a 14B upgrade might give you a chance.
 
blcknspo0ln said:
plus the adapter will leak.

you will need a different manifold flanged for t3 turbos, get the oil lines, AND a garret o2 housing. If it uses a V-band clamp for the exhaust, you will also need the v-band downpipe.

If I were you, I'd sell it on eBay and save the money for a mitsu flanged turbo

The adapters don't leak.

Oil lines are easy to fabricate if you're not an idiot, and any shop can make you an O2 housing relatively cheap.

Might as well upgrade if you can.
 
Coup D E'Tat said:
The adapters don't leak.

Oil lines are easy to fabricate if you're not an idiot, and any shop can make you an O2 housing relatively cheap.

Might as well upgrade if you can.


I was going on my personal experience, and also of friends. His "adaptor" wasn't completely flat and it let out a good amount of exhaust out of the system.

Oil lines are easy, I'll agree with that.

ALL OF NEW JERSEY has retarded shops, I mean meineke's and such. I can't find a good mandrel bender/ mig welder here AT ALL. that's personal experience, so I know that it'd cost me over 150 bucks just go get one custom made. It would be too much of a hassle.
 
Harriz801 said:
If someone could, please break down a list of parts that will have to be installed along with this turbo.

Garrett flanged manifold
injectors
something to control the injectors with
3" turbo back exhaust
front mount intercooler with piping
clutch
fuel pump
afpr
boost gauge
boost controller
tuning
oil feed line
oil drain line
all new gaskets
custom o2 housing or downpipe made to adapt to the turbine side of the turbo
external wastegate? If not equipped with an internal gate

Want more??
 
blcknspo0ln said:
I was going on my personal experience, and also of friends. His "adaptor" wasn't completely flat and it let out a good amount of exhaust out of the system.

Oil lines are easy, I'll agree with that.

ALL OF NEW JERSEY has retarded shops, I mean meineke's and such. I can't find a good mandrel bender/ mig welder here AT ALL. that's personal experience, so I know that it'd cost me over 150 bucks just go get one custom made. It would be too much of a hassle.

Fair enough. As with anything, your results may vary, you know?
 
well... this is what mine cost to do, granted I also did 90% of the fabrication work for an external WG.

External WG plate. 20-25 all day long Ebay.
I drilled a 1" hole in the plate and welded an external WG mount on 1" S/S 304 tube (15$).
The 2.5" down elbow 304 S/S 37$
2.5"-3" expander 304 S/S 24$
3" tube 304 S/S 37$ for 8' (I also made the entire exhaust out of 3" 304)
3" 90* 304 S/S 29$
O2 bung 12$
Welding (I had a shop do it, I just MIG tacked togeather) TIG 80$ for the entire DP/O2

Now, there are also internal gate 90* T3 elbows on ebay for 70ish.
 
He NEEDS all the supporting mods.. It's not like he's bolting on a stock turbo. There's no point in bolting on a big turbo without the supporting mods. The car WILL run like shit, And be slower then it is now.
 
1993eclipseGS said:
He NEEDS all the supporting mods.. It's not like he's bolting on a stock turbo. There's no point in bolting on a big turbo without the supporting mods. The car WILL run like shit, And be slower then it is now.
But he can also just lower the boost to where the stock system COULD support it.
Then he can replace things slowly.
I made the mistake of doing everything at once... I wish I would have JUST done the turbo, ran lower boost on the stock system and THEN started replacing/upgrading as needed.
Maybe if I did that my car would be running right now, and not still waiting on parts, and have LOTS of probs.
 
Alright well i dont know if this will help sort out what T3 it is but the turbo i have is the one that comes stock on the SABB 9000. Buddy of mine found it and bought the turbo out of it.
 
blcknspo0ln said:
sure he can run it now for the time being, and yes it will be slower and suck.


Well a larger turbo properly installed on an otherwise stock car will NOT be slower, it can be the same or faster and it can lead to a blown motor. I have run bigger turbos on stockish cars (Fuel pump and hacked MAF) and they were pretty good running cars. Anything is faster than a blown up turbo as well.


Later
 
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