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New engine and new trans break-in?

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____Kurt____

10+ Year Contributor
400
12
Jul 14, 2009
North, New Jersey
After searching around it doesn't seem to be too much discussion about a new engine and a new transmission combined break-in. I have the moto-man break-in method in mind for the engine but this goes completely against the grain for what I have read with transmission break-ins. The clutch is a ptt twin disk so it has no break-in period. Ideally I would drop the engine in with a used trans and break it in the way I want then put the new trans in and break that in the other way but that's not really an option and might be a complete waste of time and effort if there is a shared method between the two. This seems like a good question so post up some thoughts.
 
For the engine also probly the transmission go from 30mph to 50mph at WOT 12-15 times to set the Piston Rings properly not this barely on the gas crap people tell you to do.
 
I actually did this about a year back. I made one very low boost pull to ensure that global was right and I would not wash out the cylinders. I then ran the car normal for about 100 miles to let everything where into place with a lot of engine breaking. I then started making pulls at 18 - 20psi. I never launched the car until I put about a 1000 miles on the tranny but I was running 30 lbs before that point.

Robert
 
Not launching the car makes sense I guess before a thousand miles, but Tim told me that if you let the new trans idle like you would the motor for some time at 2-3500 for oil pressure reasons that you would burn out the idler gears or something of that nature.
 
My car may have seen 100 miles on waste gate pressure, but that is all. I did not treat it special during this period, just used a lot of engine breaking. After that the car saw full boost regularly and the only easy miles where going to the track!!!

Not sure how ridding at 3k would raise any issues. Maybe someone else can elaborate.

Robert
 
As far as the new transmission It would be best for it to be broke in gently not shifting hard and using the clutch properly. You can still do hard on off WOT pulls on a new trany. Just roll WOT pulls thats all you need. Make sure your tune is set up properly with the correct AFR threw out the pull as this is very important on a new engine. I would keep the tune soft with out crazy ignition timing but the AFRs normal.
 
As far as the new transmission It would be best for it to be broke in gently not shifting hard and using the clutch properly. You can still do hard on off WOT pulls on a new trany. Just roll WOT pulls thats all you need. Make sure your tune is set up properly with the correct AFR threw out the pull as this is very important on a new engine. I would keep the tune soft with out crazy ignition timing but the AFRs normal.

Now we are getting somewhere. What about first start up and letting the engine build oil pressure? How will the trans like this? Or would you suggest a different method?
 
Now we are getting somewhere. What about first start up and letting the engine build oil pressure? How will the trans like this? Or would you suggest a different method?
Starting the engine and letting it sit at 1500-2000 is no big deal as long as there is fluid in the transmission it doesnt care. When the trans was built it has assembly lube in it for the first start up to protect it untill the gear oil can get to were it needs to go. Just do your normall start up and checks.
I would put new fluid in the trany after about 2000 miles or sooner if you want as most of the wear happens with the gear mesh when the trans is tight and new. The more miles you put on the trany the gears basicly polish themselves at tooth contact so less wear occurs.
 
^ you and me both, I also have a stage three in my garage and my motor should be finished in another month so OP post the method you used to brake in both motor and tranny.
 
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