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New Block Break in?

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2gTSIFZone

10+ Year Contributor
108
0
Jun 24, 2010
Riverside, California
Rebuilt my 7 bolt block with CP Pistons, Eagle Rods etc... What is the suggested break in period?:sneaky: i wanna say ~1000 miles but just looking for verification
 
this is such RANDOM advice :D i love it though.... never before has anyone told me that "breaking" in a fresh block was to wind it out... granted i know dont over rev and make sure its completly warm but its funny :)

also forgot to ask... so after i break it in for those first 20 miles or so... thats when i change the oil correct? after those first 20 miles?
 
your rings have a knife edge before they are broken in. you need to dig them into the cylinderwall (cross hatch) as much as possible to create the best seal. boost the hell out of the motor and run it hard. a common mistake people do is baby a new motor thinking that the word "break in" means take it easy...

this is such RANDOM advice :D i love it though.... never before has anyone told me that "breaking" in a fresh block was to wind it out... granted i know dont over rev and make sure its completly warm but its funny :)

also forgot to ask... so after i break it in for those first 20 miles or so... thats when i change the oil correct? after those first 20 miles?

let it idle for 30minutes ( to clean out machining residue) drain/change oil. run it for 100 miles drain/change oil. than at 1000 miles drain/change... than normally ( every 3000k miles)
 
I ran the tits outta my car when I got it rebuilt. Ran it hard, changed the oil when i was supposed to, did everything that website tells you too. The motor did perfect and ran like a top. never been more satisfied with the way I broke it in.
 
ok Boosted86, just to make sure im following what your saying (and to reduce the chance for error) Let it COMPLETLY warm up, boost as much as possible for the first 20 miles... let it sit and idle for 30 mins or so... change the oil... run it for 100 miles then change the oil again, then change it every 3000? first 2 times i need to run full motor oil (non-synthetic) then after the 100 mile oil change i can run synthetic again correct? :) not to seem like a noob but better safe than sorry
 
ok Boosted86, just to make sure im following what your saying (and to reduce the chance for error) Let it COMPLETLY warm up, boost as much as possible for the first 20 miles... let it sit and idle for 30 mins or so... change the oil... run it for 100 miles then change the oil again, then change it every 3000? first 2 times i need to run full motor oil (non-synthetic) then after the 100 mile oil change i can run synthetic again correct? :) not to seem like a noob but better safe than sorry

Just read the article! It explains EVERYTHING in there. Have you even read a sentence from it?
 
Cookmeup272 yes ive read them... theres no need to be a d!ck about it... i just wanted to varify... this is why i asked it in the noobie section rather then in the tech ones
 
This is how I did it but why does everyone say my last 5 motors was broke in this way. That makes me worry LOL
 
if any of you guys have heard of mario excellent guy buy the way he built me a 2.3 stroker 6 bolt and broke it in for me. how he breaks all of his motors in are start it rev and hold at 2 grand for 20 mins have someone there make sure nothing has a small leak (coolant lines oil lines) then change oil drive it hit boost and let the motor idle its self down down use the clutch let the motor do it all do that for about ten mins and change the oil after that drive it how u want
 
Ive also heard to start the motor fresh, let it warm up then like that article says pretty much beat it, but do a 2-3rd gear pull then engine break (Do not use brakes!!!) all the way down to about 1k rpm and repeat 3 to 5 times then let the motor idle to cool down. Then change the oil, then again at 100, 1000 then 3k.. Having the engine have a negative pressure (vacuum) helps clean all the debris off the cylinder walls and helps seat the rings! So Ive heard, I will be using this method to break in my fresh built motor this spring!
 
Cookmeup272 yes ive read them... theres no need to be a d!ck about it... i just wanted to varify... this is why i asked it in the noobie section rather then in the tech ones

Im not being a dick im just making sure you actually read the article top to bottom, there is a lot of good info in there. You dont boost the hell out of it, You dont give it full throttle either. You put some good load on it and give it maybe 1/2-3/4 throttle throughout the rpms...
 
I ran mine at 2k rpm's for 30 mins. Changed oil. Then drove it normally (just general driving back and forth to work on the interstate) for about 500 miles. Changed oil. Then beat on it some and changed oil again @ 1k miles. After that I change oil every 3k miles. I have put well over 60k miles on my engine without fault.
 
That kind of goes against what the website says. I wonder what your compression results would have been? Im just curious on how different it could be doing it this way and the motoman way
 
I agree Change the oil quick the first time and filter to get out any random dust metal shavings what ever may have made it's way in your engine during rebuild. Then drive it like you stole it, but be smart don't go crazy take to high rpms but don't try to kill the thing I would thing 6000 rpm would be high enough for these engines. Some one can jump in that knows these cars better about the specific rpms. I'm new to these I know my mustangs v8 351w much better. The other thing is you want to seat the rings both ways compression and engine breaking as well You want them to seat from both sides. ANd as for oil changes i would say more is better than less but 30 min 100-300miles then 1000 then at 3000 change to synthetic.

Just my two cents,
Good luck
 
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