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new clutch and flywheel, if I stall it out, won't start again

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Talyn

10+ Year Contributor
443
19
Jun 10, 2012
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Clutch was slipping, so I put in a brand new fidanza aluminum flywheel, and an ACT pressure plate and 6 puck clutch rated at 400 lbs, engine runs fine, have run it several times without trying to drive it, but upon going to take it for a test drive, stalled it out(still a bit of a newbie on manuals, haven't driven one in a while, and the 6 puck and aluminum flywheel don't help). And it would not start back up.

A day later(today) I was about to start trying to figure out the problem, thinking maybe the starter and flywheel weren't engaging possibly, had someone crank it, and it fired right up. Hopped in to drive it again, stalled out again this time halfway up the driveway(I also have a ridiculously steep driveway and street...), it seemed to move just fine, but i let popped the clutch in thinking i had enough momentum to get up the drive, didn't, went to let it back in again, stalled it, and again, it won't start up.

Only thing I can think of is that it isn't fully disengaging till its sat for a bit? Though I would think it would at least start in neutral if that was it..
 
Seems to crank normally, haven't tried adjusting it yet..Looked into it though, looks like the switch is already as far out as it will go, going to look at adjusting the master cylinder rod today, at any rate, I need to figure this out asap...my daily driver just blew up and I have no money to get another car...
 
If it were the clutch switch, it simply wouldn't crank. And no, it doesn't throw a CEL, but the ECM has been messed with in some manor by a PO because there are several things that I know should(emissions items that are disabled)
 
If emissions parts are missing, is your FPR solenoid still functional? I'm wondering if the problem isn't really a hot-restart issue. Also, you may want to verify there are no DTCs set in memory, someone could have disabled the CEL by removing the bulb or disconnecting the wire. Also may want to try adjusting the clutch pedal rod so that disk disengagement occurs sooner in the travel. Just make sure you leave enough free space at the top of the travel for the clutch master to uncover the oh so awesome 2G relief valve.
 
It wasn't at the time, I did actually think of that and re-enable it though, but have not had a chance to see if it worked on account of aforementioned daily driver is blocking it in atm..Cel is not entirely disabled, it is in there, and can come on for some things, it was on for FPR solenoid when I had a boost leak. Disabled it at that time thinking it might have been the problem.
I really don't see the necessity of it though, from what I read all it does is raise fuel pressure on hot starts, which I am not sure I see the reason for, and it didn't keep it from starting hot back when I disabled it.
I did watch the video on clutch adjustment, but I wasn't quite clear on the slave rod being able to move, he said to have a helper check the movement of it which makes me unsure if the clutch pedal is supposed to be depressed while they check that? Also not quite sure how far it should move, I checked to see if it moves at all, and it does, though I don't quite think its moving all the way, and it takes some effort to move it as far as it will go. Which kind of makes me think its already adjusted as far out as it should be if not a little bit past?
 
If it were the clutch switch, it simply wouldn't crank. And no, it doesn't throw a CEL, but the ECM has been messed with in some manor by a PO because there are several things that I know should(emissions items that are disabled)

Well at least we're past the incredible expansion properties of the fidanza flywheel. LOL

It wasn't at the time, I did actually think of that and re-enable it though, but have not had a chance to see if it worked on account of aforementioned daily driver is blocking it in atm..Cel is not entirely disabled, it is in there, and can come on for some things, it was on for FPR solenoid when I had a boost leak. Disabled it at that time thinking it might have been the problem.
I really don't see the necessity of it though, from what I read all it does is raise fuel pressure on hot starts, which I am not sure I see the reason for, and it didn't keep it from starting hot back when I disabled it.
I did watch the video on clutch adjustment, but I wasn't quite clear on the slave rod being able to move, he said to have a helper check the movement of it which makes me unsure if the clutch pedal is supposed to be depressed while they check that? Also not quite sure how far it should move, I checked to see if it moves at all, and it does, though I don't quite think its moving all the way, and it takes some effort to move it as far as it will go. Which kind of makes me think its already adjusted as far out as it should be if not a little bit past?

To check for proper adjustment you do not need a helper. I can see why you're slightly confused on the instructions.
With the clutch engaged, meaning no one in the driver's seat, you should be able to depress the slave rod back into the cylinder. If you can not, your master cylinder is adjusted out too far and you need to reduce the throw by turning the master cylinder rod towards the driver's side of the car.

I also agree with you that this is not, or does not appear to be a hot-start issue. I live with that business everyday and it never stops the car from starting.
It's got to be something else.

Have you inspected mechanical timing? Or verified that you have reliable fuel/spark? Just trying to cross off the easy one's.

Is the car still starting up fine after you leave it alone for a while, or was that a fluke?
 
Timing belt was done by the dealer, so it better be right, and I did not have this problem prior to installing this clutch, which is why I don't think its a hot start problem. I'm getting my daily towed to work tomorrow to mess with it. So I'll probably mess with the dsm when I get home, maybe let it idle tonight and see if it will start hot.
 
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