Needs some input for tuning

[Midnightride]

Basically I'm aware of the FAQ section and have read it.
Here is what I'm working with.

550s
190 pump
14B on my 2G
FMIC all hard piping

Using a logger and SAFCII to tune

I have the low setting set. Pretty much they are all in the +%. I have the side combes taken out of the MAF. Car runs and throw no cells with doing that. I had it running at 19psi before i switched to the MAFT. I got rid of the MAFT and want to get back to my other settings. I had help tuning it but would like to do it myself this time.

Since most posts I have read with the same mods as listed above the average user will be in the -% for the low settings. Then to start of with the high setting you take the higher rpm (4K) and put that correctin % in for the high settings, correct? Of coarse just to get in the ball park.

Since I'm getting more air even at idle with the side combs not being there and having to add fuel for it to idle correctly, Do I follow the same procedure for my high settings?

I did a few WOT pulls and when it gets close to shifting, to me it feels like fuel cut. Sounds of backfire and the car stumbles. My guess is I was giving it to much fuel.

Thoughts?

Thought I'd check since I'm sure some of you have taken the sides out and had the same experience.

I'm shooting for the same thing right around 19-21psi.

 

[turboglenn]

YOu will really need a wideband to get the Hi settings correct you don't just dial in a certain % on the WOT side because every motor and turbo/IC combo is going to have different airflow and fuiel requirements. I would put the honey combs back in, removing them was never anything but trouble for me. A regular o2 is not accurate enough and EGT's can vary according to too many other variables. However on the stock o2 reading at WOT you should definately be in the mid to high .9x volt range (preferably .94 - .96 or so) If it's any lower than those you are dangerously lean. but those values can be lener than what you actually need as well, but is better than having no way of telling at all.

 

[Midnightride]

last time I had this set up working I was driving and my buddy was looking at timing in a 3rd gear WOT pull. he basically watched that at the top of the gear timing was back over 15degrees. Mine is a auto so it's even harder to tune,since timing is pulled during shifts. We managed though and the car felt strong at 19psi.

I'm not really looking for a magic number to input. I was just asking if I can use the same principals/starting point for the high settings like you do with cars that dont have the combs removed.

I'll watch the O2 reading as well of coarse and log so I can post back.

Thanks!

 

[spectr019]

Have you checked out the "definitive piggy back tuning guide" in the forums? That thing is what got me started out and I haven't blown anything up yet (fingers crossed). But for your low throttle, you should be in the negatives. Because your 550cc are 13% larger than your 450cc, you have to tell the computer that it is seeing 13% LESS air so with your 550cc's you are pumping in as much as the 450cc's would be at the low throttle position. You have the Throttles set at 30 and 80, right? So yeah if you are in the +%, then you're telling your ecu that it is seeing a LOT of air and that makes it push in more fuel, which I think is dangerous. I have had my SAFC II for about a year and have yet to get a wideband. I need to just get off my lazy stubborn ass and do it, cause I'm sure there is so much more that you can get from by having it in addition to our loggers. Good luck though.

Ben

P.S. - it's not always the best idea to listen to 'buddies' who know 'more than you do' about cars. Did you read the Import Tuner either last month or the month before that, in the 'going postal' section, one dude wrote in that he wanted more power from his 1.8T Audi? His buddy told him to port and polish the exhaust, so what does this kid do? His friend offers the suggestion of sandblasting, so together they go to the store, buy a bag of sand, hook it up to the intake, and turn the car on. He was under the belief that doing this would port and polish the exhaust after it was pushed out through the engine. His friend said it shouldn't hurt anything, but he couldn't promise because he was used to 'tuning on hondas.' HA. My ass. Anyway, I'm sorry to go so off topic, but just be careful when listening to your friends.

 

[Midnightride]

From what I have read if you removed the some of the combs in the stock MAf, more air will come in. That's why you have to adjust and add more fuel.

When I put the old MAF back on after taking the maft off, I had to retune the low settings.

here is what I did:

Had the car in partk and free rev it to appropriate rpm, then looked at STFT and LTFT and adjusted the SAFC till they reached 0 or =0. At frist the car ran ruph and the A/F gauge read lean. When I started to have them =0 it started going back and forth again. I know you cant base setting of the A/F gauge, but it's still an indicater I was going in the right way since it always went back and forth at idle. I have the low setting to 0 or pretty close now.

The SAFC settings are in the + though not in the negatives. I'd say for the car to idle right and for the STFT and LTFT to be 0 at 850rpms I had to set it to +19 something close to that.

I'll get all the settings I have across the low settings and report back.


Also, the car runs fine with these settings. coolant temp stayes where it's suppose too etc... EGT guage reads the same temp it use too.

Now if those setting are off or shouldn't be that high even with the combs taken out, what should I check for? What could cause me to have to add that much more fuel at idle/low seetings.

 

[Midnightride]

Would having boost leaks cause me to have to set the SAFC into the +?
I found a major boost leak. That would explain the fuel cut at higher rpms, but not having to set the SAFC into the +.

Thoughts?