bNasty needs some tuning help :(

[bNasty]

Another thing is to confirm that you actually burn HALF YOUR TANK, in actual volume, not what that gauge says. I know mine goes from full to half in like 50 miles. Then from half to quarter in 70 or so more miles. And that last quarter goes for about 120 miles. Then the light comes on. Fill it back up and I only went through 10 Gallons. 24mpg, not bad for 440whp .

But if its confirmed crap mileage, I would check whats up with the front o2, if your wideband bounces between 12.5 and 15, and your fuel trims are 0%, means your are cruising around 13.7~14.5 ish average. A bit rich for cruising. ECMlink doesnt have a direct way for you to modify cruise, closed loop, AFR target (controlled by Front O2 signal) if the o2 is lying, and putting out a leaner signal than it should, the ecu thinks its lean and ads fuel to get closer to 14.7 target, what the front o2 sensor thinks is 14.7 but wideband says its 13.9. The ECU has a very small view of the actual world, a sensor tells it that the world is a peaceful place and it will go around hugging and kissing everyone in Compton, CA when in actuality, it'd get shot and robbed. I would wire the wideband to the ecu and run it off NarrowO2 simulation and play with the switch over point to be closer to 15:1. And your range that the AFRs swing is a bit large, I would play with the o2 feedback rates in the DA table and lower the value a bit so that the ecu doesn't make so large of a change in fueling to cause afrs to swing that much. My car jumps around 14.9 to 15.2 at a steady cruise.

Also looking you have your MAF comp turned on, and MAf set to stock maf still. You stated you are on speed density.

Here is an attached base map for you,

ECU Config File:
zeroed out maf comp
disabled maf comp under SD
switched the MAF to SD
disabled misfire check
My Base VE table -2 minute tweaked to flow with your original VE

DA file:
O2 Sensor Feedback rate changes
Mild Base Tip In adjustments.

But your lower areas of the VE tables are lower than they should be. I would check Global and deadtime settings. The values spat out of the calculator is a guideline assuming the injector actually flows as much as advertised, no more, no less and fuel pressure is somewhat close to stock.

In my last post you can see that i put the stock maf back in, in order to try and create my SD table using the SD ratio tool. As i also stated in my last post, my trims are at 0 around idle but as soon as i get on the gas at all they bounce all over the place. I attached a log in my post above. And ive been using the combine FT tool but i want to make sure im doing everything correctly. My front o2 is brand new as well.

 

[Sam@RRE]

In my last post you can see that i put the stock maf back in, in order to try and create my SD table using the SD ratio tool. As i also stated in my last post, my trims are at 0 around idle but as soon as i get on the gas at all they bounce all over the place. I attached a log in my post above. And ive been using the combine FT tool but i want to make sure im doing everything correctly. My front o2 is brand new as well.

OK, wondering what was up with that MAF selection. But do give my base map a shot, and I always tell people, just because its new, doesn't mean its good. And narrowband sensors aren't anything to trust at any point, new or old. I would do the narrowband o2 sim through link and then you can change the closed loops afr target by changing the voltage switchover point. Also to do any real tuning you should be logging your wideband anyways.

My ve table is a full on guess based on what was on your orginal ve table in the idle area, and with my mid/upper area added in and blended. If anything WOT will be rich. Go for a long cruise, varying rpm and load, logging combinedft and closed loop. After about 20 mins of driving, do a VE adjust combinedFT tool thing, and see how it comes out. But befor any of this, load in the changes to to DA o2 feedback, and switch to narrowband o2 sim.

On that note, what wideband are you running?

 

[bNasty]

OK, wondering what was up with that MAF selection. But do give my base map a shot, and I always tell people, just because its new, doesn't mean its good. And narrowband sensors aren't anything to trust at any point, new or old. I would do the narrowband o2 sim through link and then you can change the closed loops afr target by changing the voltage switchover point. Also to do any real tuning you should be logging your wideband anyways.

My ve table is a full on guess based on what was on your orginal ve table in the idle area, and with my mid/upper area added in and blended. If anything WOT will be rich. Go for a long cruise, varying rpm and load, logging combinedft and closed loop. After about 20 mins of driving, do a VE adjust combinedFT tool thing, and see how it comes out. But befor any of this, load in the changes to to DA o2 feedback, and switch to narrowband o2 sim.

On that note, what wideband are you running?

Do you think i can still do the narrowband o2 sim even though my wideband is a little further down in the downpipe? and how do i do that through link, i know you can i just forgot how. I have an AEM uego, i think in the back i have to turn that knob for narrowband sim.

Oh and another thing do my sliders for my mafcomp look normal it seems like i shouldnt need to compensate much. Could my global fuel be off with my 1050s?

 

[Sam@RRE]

Do you think i can still do the narrowband o2 sim even though my wideband is a little further down in the downpipe? and how do i do that through link, i know you can i just forgot how. I have an AEM uego, i think in the back i have to turn that knob for narrowband sim.

Oh and another thing do my sliders for my mafcomp look normal it seems like i shouldnt need to compensate much. Could my global fuel be off with my 1050s?

Don't mess with the dial on the back of the gauge. Leave it how it is. The white wire on the AEM power harness (has white, blue, red, black) needs to be wired into the ecu rear o2 input. So cut the rear o2 wire off with a good 3~4 inches to work with, and then wire the AEMS white wire into the side that goes to the ECU. This will send the aems 0-5V signal to the ecus rear o2 input. In link, under ecu inputs, set rear o2 to one of the AEM widebands and log it. Use the one with the closest reading on the log matching the guage display(generally its AEM WB guage, or AEM wb Guage R1) kinda hard to see two things at once, but the once that is the closest possible. Then under "pin assignments for ECU functions" in the ECU inputs tab, set "wideband(wb)" to rear o2. Then after that go to the NBO2 sim tab and check "enable nBo2 Sim". Raise the switch over voltage to have a leaner closed loop, lower for a richer closed loop. If all is done properly, you will see that the front o2 signal if logged will display as a square wave. And if the AFR swing back and fourth by a large amount, Play with the o2 fedback rates in the DA tables to get it to only swing by .5 or so AFR during idle and cruise.

Also, do make sure you are actually burning half your tank by volume, as asked in my first post.

 

[bNasty]

Don't mess with the dial on the back of the gauge. Leave it how it is. The white wire on the AEM power harness (has white, blue, red, black) needs to be wired into the ecu rear o2 input. So cut the rear o2 wire off with a good 3~4 inches to work with, and then wire the AEMS white wire into the side that goes to the ECU. This will send the aems 0-5V signal to the ecus rear o2 input. In link, under ecu inputs, set rear o2 to one of the AEM widebands and log it. Use the one with the closest reading on the log matching the guage display(generally its AEM WB guage, or AEM wb Guage R1) kinda hard to see two things at once, but the once that is the closest possible. Then under "pin assignments for ECU functions" in the ECU inputs tab, set "wideband(wb)" to rear o2. Then after that go to the NBO2 sim tab and check "enable nBo2 Sim". Raise the switch over voltage to have a leaner closed loop, lower for a richer closed loop. If all is done properly, you will see that the front o2 signal if logged will display as a square wave. And if the AFR swing back and fourth by a large amount, Play with the o2 fedback rates in the DA tables to get it to only swing by .5 or so AFR during idle and cruise.

Also, do make sure you are actually burning half your tank by volume, as asked in my first post.

Yea i believe i am I mean i went 70 miles on half a tank went to get gas and but 20 bucks in thats about 5 gallons 14mpgs still isnt great. i know i can get more as you stated

 

[TurboAnything]

I have never been able to get smooth closed loop operation without a narrowband O2 sensor. The signal the ECU is looking for from the O2 cannot be emulated by the wideband properly. If you ask Dorris he will tell you the same thing that a narrowband O2 sensor is the best way to dial in closed loop.

 

[Sam@RRE]

I have never been able to get smooth closed loop operation without a narrowband O2 sensor. The signal the ECU is looking for from the O2 cannot be emulated by the wideband properly. If you ask Dorris he will tell you the same thing that a narrowband O2 sensor is the best way to dial in closed loop.

You should come by and test drive my car
Dunno, Mine and several cars i've set up that way have no idle or cruise closed loops operation issues.

On link or AEM ems (ment to strictly run on WBo2 only.) my car starts, drives idles, and cruises normally. Its my DD and I cant live with finiky daily driving issues.

 

[dsm-onster]

I have to agree. MY lm-1 is great and the lc-1 is great too for dialing in closed loop operation. The output can be programmed and just works like a narrowband completely. I don't really think Thomas said that. I've heard him discuss differently on the forums.