The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Need starter plate help DSM WISEMEN

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ChiTownHussla

10+ Year Contributor
1,268
6
Nov 16, 2010
Chicago, Illinois
I bought a used FWD Turbo 6 bolt motor for cheap, because my motor died. I put in my awd flywheel and trans, but the starter bolts dont line up . I drilled the top bolt so it engaged the starter, and tomorrow will do the other. Is there anything else I need to do to use my awd starter on fwd plate? I know its not the RIGHT way, but I am pressed for time and the car is stuck in my school. Thanks guys.

I think I need to use a spacer and longer bolts perhaps?
thanks

Another way to explain this is i installed an awd turbo trans and flywheel onto a 6bolt fwd motor and my starter bolts are not matching up? is there any way to make the holes match up without having to change the starter flex plate
 
It's not all about the bolt holes. The hole in the plate actually lines the starter up exactly where it needs to be. Even if you grind the bolt holes to where they will fit the starter will not fit the plate correctly, and it will not be able to be tightened up to the transmission all the way. Do you not still have the plate off your old engine?
 
No, the starter plate just bolts to the back of the block. You just need to take the flywheel off and take the 10mm head bolts out that hold it to the block.
 
Ok. Do I have to replace the rear main seal also? anything else reccomended?

If the rear main seal is leaking, then yes, it would be a good time to replace it.

If it doesn't leak, then you only need to replace the starter plate.

Ps. If your car happens to be automatic, it would also be a good time to make sure the pilot bushing is present in the back of your crankshaft.
 
Ya it does not leak but my teacher said I should replace it....so you a re sure its cool if I dont?

And also does anyone know how many bolts hold the tranny to the block? and also the bolt sizes for the transfercase to tranny ? I lost 2 bolts I think if there 5 total
 
If you want to change the rear seal than you are going to need to pull the oil pan because the seal housing has to come off. The seal goes in from the engine side of the housing on a 6 bolt (flywheel side for 7 bolt).
 
Ya it does not leak but my teacher said I should replace it....so you a re sure its cool if I dont?

And also does anyone know how many bolts hold the tranny to the block? and also the bolt sizes for the transfercase to tranny ? I lost 2 bolts I think if there 5 total

It's smart to replace the rear main seal while you are in there as it saves you the headache later on down the road if/when it decides to start leaking. It is not necessary to remove the oil pan to do the seal.

There are three bolts holding the transmission to the engine and one holding the engine to the transmission... There's a total of four bolts holding the two together on a 1G.

Transfer case bolts are M12 x 1.25mm pitch, two of which are 70mm and three are 130mm long.
 
You can get the seal housing on and off with the pan on, but it will scrape all the rtv off and into the pan when you re-install it. I've done it both ways and have way better luck getting it sealed removing the pan.
 
Thanks for quick and excellent replies. What size are tranny to block bolts? I only jave 2 that go on the top. Thanks again
 
i also at one time put a engine out of a fwd into a awd car of mine. bolted averything up and went to put starte on last!. i tried to even cut the entire area where the starter plate is, and still no go. you will have to pull the engine back out. if you take the damper off, and slide the engine and trans apart a few inches, you can sometimes stick a 10 mm wrench in their behind it and turn the two bolts out. once you slide that fwd plate out and slide awd plate in, getting those two bolts back in are a pain!. not too bad if you have like a act lightweight flywheel.
 
^^^^^^^ i do not find that to have any merit!. i tried to just remove the fwd one from the car, with no luck, as i went to start it, the bendix gear on starter was hitting too far into the teeth on the flywheel. i had to get one off the classifieds on here, and waited like a week for it.
i am not saying that you are wrong, but for one, i suggest for him to put one, as there is alot of play in the alignment of stater without the starterplate, which in turn, will cause more damage to the flywheel.
 
Just saying, it can be done. If he has to get it out of somewhere soon then sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. You can always put one in at some point after. You dont have to completely pull the transmission out to do it.

Sorry, I thought this was an issue with starter plate only. I did not realize he was drilling his actual starter out.
 
not trying to call you out, but who do you know that has run without one????????????????? i would like to know, so i also learn something new.
also, what would be the point of not running one?, as this keeps the starter from basically shearing the edge off of the flywheel teeth.
 
The starter plates aren't 6bolt vs 7bolt. They are:

1G 5spd turbo AWD + 5spd/auto Non-turbo are interchangeable.
1G Auto FWD/AWD TURBO and 5spd turbo FWD are interchangeable.

This is all assuming 2.0L engine for the non-turbo stuff.

not trying to call you out, but who do you know that has run without one????????????????? i would like to know, so i also learn something new.
also, what would be the point of not running one?, as this keeps the starter from basically shearing the edge off of the flywheel teeth.

I drove my car a few miles without a starter plate, only because I wasn't aware the previous owner removed it and didn't install it back in place when he put everything back together. No ill effects that I could see.
 
for the record I didnt drill into the starter. just took out some material of the fwd plate. I did manage to get the top bolt to go in but didn't have a small enough drill to properly drill out the bottom one.

This is solved and I took the awd plate off my broken timing belt motor. Thanks guys and hopefully some one who has this issue will see this and know :)
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top