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Need some advice for TSi?

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EagleTalon1995

Probationary Member
5
0
Jun 15, 2010
Columbia, Indiana
I've got a 95 Talon Tsi that started briefly after a long rebuilding process. After timing the engine cranked a few times and it started up but ran at abnormally high rpm 2300. Recently replaced the TPS but dont know if its correctly hooked up. Anyway engine runs while attempting to adjust TPS idle speed. car dies after rotating the engine sensor slightly. Looking at belt and noticed it slipped off main pulley. Moved the main pulley a bit inside put the belt back on and its kicked but then died and and wouldnt crank. attempted to manually crank the main pulley and it woudnt turn. Im stuck, so frustrating.
Hoping the engine didnt seize after all this progress. What should I try to do to get it to turn and start again?

I also need to know everything about the TPS connections and installation settings to make sure I have it correct. I need to know where the fuel pressure regulator sensor tubes/hoses connect to as well:ohdamn:
 
:confused: Which belt? The A/C? ROFL If you are talking about the timing belt, "crank walk" is ok as long as you redo the timing. The engine can walk a tooth or two before it becomes a serious problem. I would focus on the tesioner or pulleys "source of the problem" The engine didn't just pop off the belt.

The pictures for the TPS adjustment are in this thread http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/mai...iator-fan-wont-turn-car-over-heats-ideal.html

Please provide feedback on repair status... IF you want help

Good luck :hellyeah:

**PRINT AND FOLLOW**

CLOSED THROTTLE POSITlON SWITCH AND THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR ADJUSTMENT

NOTE
When using the scan tool, proceed to service data item 26 and observe the ON/OFF changes to the closedThrottle position switch instead of performing ohmmeter test. If the scan tool is not available, follow the steps bellow.

1. Disconnect the connector oft the throttle position sensor.

2. Connect an ohmmeter between terminal 3 (closed throttle position switch) and 4 (sensor ground) by using jumper wires.

3. Insert a feeler gauge with a thickness of 0.45 mm (.O 177 in.) between the fixed SAS and the throttle lever.

4. Loosen the throttle position sensor mounting bolt; then turn the throttle position sensor body fully counter clockwise.

5. In this condition, check for continuity between terminals 3 and 4.

6. Slowly turn the throttle position sensor clockwise until the point at which continuity between terminals 3 and 4 changes to non-continuity is found.
Tighten the throttle position sensor installation bolt at that position.

7. Connect the connector of the throttle position sensor.

8. Connect the scan tool to the data link connector (16 pin).

9. When not using the scan tool, proceed as follows:

(1) Disconnect the throttle position sensor connectors and connect the special tool. Test harness set, between the disconnected connectors.

(2) Connect a digital voltmeter between'the throttle position sensor terminal 2 (sensor output) and tertntnal 4 (sensor ground.)

10. Turn the ignition switch ON (but do not start the engine)

11. Check the throttle position sensor outpuP voltage.

10. Turn the ignition switch ON (but do not start the engine).
Standard value: 400-1,000 mV

12. If there is a deviation from the standard value, check the throttle position sensor and the related harness.

13. Remove the feeler gauge.

14. Switch OFF the ignition switch.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
:confused: Which belt? The A/C? ROFL If you are talking about the timing belt, "crank walk" is ok as long as you redo the timing. The engine can walk a tooth or two before it becomes a serious problem.

=/ Not meaning to be an ass, but this has nothing to do with crankwalk. The timing belt jumping a tooth or so is not 'Crank Walk'. Please do a search for all of the controversial threads on 'Crank Walk' before you cause this one to become the same.

If the TIMING BELT skipped a tooth, or slipped off the crank, you've got a big problem. If it was an Acc. Belt.. you're fine.. just gotta figure out what's binding the engine.

Please confirm which belt it was. Nothing else matters at this point if the engine is not able to be cranked over by hand.
 
Bad news took off the head and found two broken valves and metal shavings on top of piston 1 which is now dented and gouged from where it hit the bottom of the spark plug and jammed it also. What could have caused this?? I am done with this I'll just have to part it out now I guess unless I can sell it to someone with a good engine. I dont know Im just frustrated with life now.
 
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