Need help!

[VicBoost]

Hey, my rear wheel bearing is shot But anyways i found some bearings but most of them in my area is $150 with hub assembly. Just wondering do i need the hub assembly or im fine with the bearing it self. Also where can i find a good place for finding bearings for my car?

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Hey, my rear wheel bearing is shot But anyways i found some bearings but most of them in my area is $150 with hub assembly. Just wondering do i need the hub assembly or im fine with the bearing it self. Also where can i find a good place for finding bearings for my car?

I dont believe we have press in bearings. I bought a new hub a couple months back for 128.00 maybe go online....Goodluck.

 

[VicBoost]

I dont believe we have press in bearings. I bought a new hub a couple months back for 128.00 maybe go online....Goodluck.

Yea found some for $91 but plus shipping which will probably be $30-50.... probably will cost the same with the exchange rate.

 

[VicBoost]

Also i just got new rims and tires and i need a wheel alignment, just wondering does it matter if my rear wheel bearing is shot. Like it plays but not that much. I know stupid question but i dunno i thought it will affect it.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

The bearing will make an awfull noise and may cause vibration. Do the alignment after the bearing instsall since you have to take the suspenson apart. Goodluck.

 

[VicBoost]

The bearing will make an awfull noise and may cause vibration. Do the alignment after the bearing instsall since you have to take the suspenson apart. Goodluck.

Okay, thats what i was thinking. Is it a hard job to change the bearing? Me and my buddy are going to do it in his shop so it shouldn't be too bad, he always does bearings. The bearings on these cars are actually pretty strong, had car for a while and this only one i need to change and are roads suck, much better then my integra GSR i use to own.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Okay, thats what i was thinking. Is it a hard job to change the bearing? Me and my buddy are going to do it in his shop so it shouldn't be too bad, he always does bearings. The bearings on these cars are actually pretty strong, had car for a while and this only one i need to change and are roads suck, much better then my integra GSR i use to own.

Pull off the nuckle there, and tap the old bearing out. put the new one in easily and go. Its easy you will see

 

[VicBoost]

Pull off the nuckle there, and tap the old bearing out. put the new one in easily and go. Its easy you will see

thanks man

 

[MrBoxx]

Pull off the nuckle there, and tap the old bearing out. put the new one in easily and go. Its easy you will see

In the USUAL manner of getting the bearing off the axle, you just use a puller tool that attaches to three of the wheel studs and presses against the axle, so the bearing just pulls off the splines. Unfortunately, on the older cars that have more corrosion, sometimes the bearing siezes onto the splines and doesn't want to come off. So then you get a few options, none of which are good.

1. You can continue to use the puller and air gun to keep torqueing the puller tool. This method may mushroom the end of the axle. It happened to me once when I had Sears Auto do my first wheel bearing. This requires you to either replace the axle or grind off the mushroomed part of the splines and regrind new splines with a grinder and cutting wheel. Guess how I know that, and guess which method Sears Auto used to fix the problem.

2. You can cut through the bearing with a torch. This usually destroys the axle in the process. Sometimes you can destroy the speed sensor as well. By the second or third time my usual Mitsu dealer mechanic did a bearing on my car, he had figured out how to save the sensor. But he still killed the axle every time.

3. It was proposed once on here that you could use a rotary air tool/die grinder to cut through the bearing in an attempt to save the axle. I have no idea whether or not anyone has tried this or if it will work.

4. You can bang on it with a big hammer. This didn't work for Sears Auto or the Mitsu dealership, but they tried anyway, which leads me to believe that it might just work in some cases.

Of course, if you're lucky, the bearing will just come off with the puller.

 

[luv2rallye]

I just did one and it was a nightmare. All the solvents, hammers, torches, and regular hub puller didn't do a thing. Save yourself a lot of headaches and just rent one of these (extra heavy duty one) which I ended up doing. Keep the axel nut on backwards flush with the spindle end to keep threads from mushrooming.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

In the USUAL manner of getting the bearing off the axle, you just use a puller tool that attaches to three of the wheel studs and presses against the axle, so the bearing just pulls off the splines. Unfortunately, on the older cars that have more corrosion, sometimes the bearing siezes onto the splines and doesn't want to come off. So then you get a few options, none of which are good.

1. You can continue to use the puller and air gun to keep torqueing the puller tool. This method may mushroom the end of the axle. It happened to me once when I had Sears Auto do my first wheel bearing. This requires you to either replace the axle or grind off the mushroomed part of the splines and regrind new splines with a grinder and cutting wheel. Guess how I know that, and guess which method Sears Auto used to fix the problem.

2. You can cut through the bearing with a torch. This usually destroys the axle in the process. Sometimes you can destroy the speed sensor as well. By the second or third time my usual Mitsu dealer mechanic did a bearing on my car, he had figured out how to save the sensor. But he still killed the axle every time.

3. It was proposed once on here that you could use a rotary air tool/die grinder to cut through the bearing in an attempt to save the axle. I have no idea whether or not anyone has tried this or if it will work.

4. You can bang on it with a big hammer. This didn't work for Sears Auto or the Mitsu dealership, but they tried anyway, which leads me to believe that it might just work in some cases.

Of course, if you're lucky, the bearing will just come off with the puller.

My direction was once everthing was apart. Heres the lowdown.

I had to replace my driver side CV boot acouple months back. I ended up buying..A new CV axle, a new wheel bearing and a new knuckle all because my splines became one with the bearing.

IF your axle dosnt slide right or after that heavy duty puller doesnt work, dont start whacking it with an 8lb sledge or even a smaller hammer. You will mushroom the threads on the axle and kiss it bye. Pull the axle and knuckle as one piece and take it to a machine shop..usually 60 tons on pressure will get the axle out, but it didnt in my case hence me buying a whole new driver side. But like I said usually 60Tons will move the axle and keep everything re useable. Should only cost about 15 bucks to. GoodLuck. Also an alignment, like you said will be in order after this.

 

[VicBoost]

Darn hopefully this sucker will come out easy, well i'm taking it to my buddy's shop and they do bearings all the time so he probably has some tools for taking out bearings. Reminder don't tell him to use a hammer.. Thanks for tip guys, i guess that 60 ton tool will work especailly for the back.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Darn hopefully this sucker will come out easy, well i'm taking it to my buddy's shop and they do bearings all the time so he probably has some tools for taking out bearings. Reminder don't tell him to use a hammer.. Thanks for tip guys, i guess that 60 ton tool will work especailly for the back.

Yep, a press is a sweet machine if you have access to one. Goodluck.

 

[luv2rallye]

I like to use a press as a last resort since it means extra work removing ball joints to get the hub/knuckle assembly off and you almost always tear the ball joint boots in doing so. I got my axel off with the heavy duty hub puller and didn't remove a single ball joint.

In any case make sure he puts anti-sieze compound on the axel spines before reassembly.