Need help with decisions

[willwonderlama]

New here, well first post. I was over seas on deployment when i found this site after i decided to purchase a DSM when i got back home so the research was on. I had a year to find out a wealth of knowledge from this site so fast forward to now after a while of being home and owning my new DSM and driving it for a while after alot of the maintenance was taken care of except the TB area. Well u can guess what happened it broke. Ok so some history of the car its a 90 tsi awd 5speed, go fast goodies are stock 14b, RC 550's, meth injection, wide band, boost gauge, mbc, wally 190 . When i got the car it was running way to much boost 20psi so cranked it way down till i could take a better look at the car at home. I know logging software is key but before i could even get that far the TB broke. I have all OEM replacement parts for the TB install but i can not get the intake cam to turn a 360. Pretty sure that means i wasnt one of the lucky ones and i have bent intake valves, no biggie cause i also have a 92 tsi i got for cheap as a parts car. It is bone stock and auto but awesome shape needs cam seals but seeing as how i am in need of a head it works out. So my questions are what kind of HG and IM gasket should i get for the swap, Ive search but get alot of mixed opinions. Should i go OEM i plan on also grabbing up some logging tools and would like to crank up the boost a tad once i get it back together. Of course i want to upgrade later on just dont know when so basically i dont want to have to tear the head back off later on to "upgrade" bolt on parts if that makes sense i would like to take care of it now to be able to handle what i throw at it later. Sorry so long but i know i missed something and also new to the site but my skin is extremely thick. Thanks in advance for the wisdom on what to do or if u think i should go a different route

 

[92AWDHX40]

First have you checked out the upgrade path yet?

 

[willwonderlama]

Yes I've already checked out the upgrade path. The car came with all the mods already done I was working on the maintance route first but it went south before I could really dig into it. The only reason I was driving it was because after my truck sat for over a year my struts blew out the second i moved it, wheel bearings needed replaced and a whole list of other stuff. So I was left with the car using it as my DD till the truck was taken care of. Thank you for your reply

 

[rlacasse1]

What do you mean you can't get the intake cam to spin 360 degrees. Put the timing belt on and do it.

If you have either cylinders 1 & 4 or cylinders 2 & 3 at the top of their stroke neither cam should turn 360 cause the valves will contact the pistons.

Put the belt on and then check what happens. But there's no reason that should happen. You didn't mention the timing belt breaking so you should be fine. Time it and crank it with a ratchet by hand about 6 times to make sure it's good.

 

[mchustle]

What do you mean you can't get the intake cam to spin 360 degrees. Put the timing belt on and do it.

If you have either cylinders 1 & 4 or cylinders 2 & 3 at the top of their stroke neither cam should turn 360 cause the valves will contact the pistons.

Put the belt on and then check what happens. But there's no reason that should happen. You didn't mention the timing belt breaking so you should be fine. Time it and crank it with a ratchet by hand about 6 times to make sure it's good.

Did you miss the part where he said the tb broke??? Tb=timing belt.

Op are you trying to turn the cam with the head on and motor at tdc? If so it won't turn because the valves will hit the piston and if you force it they bend (if te belt didn't already do that). The cam will not turn 360 with the belt off.

If the head is already off one trick that sometimes works is, with the cams out flip the head over and pour gas into the valves and see if it leaks through. But more than likely if they are bent because of the timing belt snapping they are usually sticking out far enough to visually tell.

 

[rlacasse1]

Did you miss the part where he said the tb broke??? Tb=timing belt.

Op are you trying to turn the cam with the head on and motor at tdc? If so it won't turn because the valves will hit the piston and if you force it they bend (if te belt didn't already do that). The cam will not turn 360 with the belt off.

If the head is already off one trick that sometimes works is, with the cams out flip the head over and pour gas into the valves and see if it leaks through. But more than likely if they are bent because of the timing belt snapping they are usually sticking out far enough to visually tell.

Apparently I did. The entire time he was saying TB I thought he meant Throttle Body. My bad OP. It's been a long 15 hour shift.

 

[mchustle]

Apparently I did. The entire time he was saying TB I thought he meant Throttle Body. My bad OP. It's been a long 15 hour shift.

Don't feel bad I thought the same thing till I was halfway though the post, then it got to talking about cams and Valves so I put 2 and 2 together .

 

[rlacasse1]

That's why I was like what the f*ck is he talking about.

 

[willwonderlama]

Haha I apologize for the acronym, but correct the head in still in. I took the plugs out to get a look at the pistons the best i could would it be possible to be able to slightly turn crank and also the cam to get the timing marks to line up. Or would it be best to go ahead and yank the head off to check the valves. If I can do it with the head on a compression test will follow after timing is right and belt is back on. Once again thank you for the insight and info. Prob should of told all of you I was driving on the interstate when it happened going down hill gettin ready to go up next at the bottom of hill pressed throttle and nothing instantly threw I out of gear and and shut key off and coasted to a stop out of gear but don't know exactly how long I was decelerating when it broke it gave no indication.

 

[gxs-nxs]

I would get the spare head checked out before you install it for warpage and to see if valves pull vac..
If you are wanting to turn the boost up past 22? 24psi you will need head studs instead of head bolts..
A mls head gasket is a plus but the stock head gasket will work fine with head studs for higher boost levels
I run a permatorqe head gasket with L19s and @ 30psi

 

[rlacasse1]

Well, it won't hurt it if you just go ahead and time it and see what you got. You shouldn't hurt anything more than it already is by doing that. But more than likely your valves are jacked. So you'll be needing to get yours fixed or a new head.

 

[My1GLaser]

If you're not pulling the block to get it decked then I wouldn't roll the dice on getting an MLS to seal.

Just get an OEM composite and some ARPs and call it a day. Should be good for 25 psi. I have heard of people running it to 30 also...

At highway speeds your head is toast, rebuildable but a goner...

 

[willwonderlama]

Thanks for all the info and insight I think I might roll the dice on checkin the head with a compression test after I get the new TB back on after I figure out how to get it back in time. What would be the way about going at that the intake cam dowl pin is facing down and the exhaust cam is where it needs to be. Would I have to slightly turn the crank and then slightly turn the intake cam and keep on doing that till I get it back around where it needs to be. I've never had one break on me it was always the other way around so it was easy as turning the crank till all the timing marks lined up. Any tricks of the trade would be greatly appreciated.

 

[mchustle]

Take the cam out and install it in the right direction. Then just go like normal.

 

[willwonderlama]

Sounds good thanks for the speedy replies I'll post back my findings hopefully in the next few days unless I run into more issues, lets hope not haha

Well back with the results not good i must say valves are toast. On the bright side took the head off my 92 to get it checked out and they said its straight as a arrow for a head that has 146k on it. Now to check those valves with a leak test but the head looks really clean if i had a camera that worked id snap a pic. Now to get a OEM composite HG, ARP's are already there lucky me. Any tips and tricks from someone that has been down this road of head swap's would be greatly appreciated. Now time to find the label maker to start marking connections for a easy quick reference when installing. Wish me luck i need some at this point.