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Need help- used Greddy type S bov

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97gsx_zeclipse

15+ Year Contributor
220
0
May 4, 2007
San Diego, California
Ok I just got a used Greddy type S bov. It was covered with oil so I might aswell open it up and check out the diaphram while I clean it. After getting all the oil out of it and cleaning it, everything looks in good shape. Installed it on my car and tested it out. It doesn't hold boost good. When I was driving and boosting I was waiting to get put in my seat from the pull, but nothing. I started soft and worked my way down to hard and I tighten it almost all the way down and it still opens under boost. Could it be the springs? Should I cap off the lower nipple or hook up the lower nipple? Oh and plus I didn't use RTV sealant for the bov gasket. Could it be any of these? Any ideas?

Plus when I drive it slow and shift at low rpm's it still blows off. When I shift at 2000 it blows off. Do I have a leaky bov? Thanks guys.
 
So should I hook up the small nipple to the boost source between the turbo compressor and the wastegate? Can I still boost 16 psi? I heard that you can only use the lower nipple, if your running at a lower boost. I also read on a thread that if I were to connect the lower nipple, I have to put the adjustment screw all the way hard, is this true? Will it barely open or open with ease? Thanks
 
The lower nipple is there for an extra boost source so the valve will react faster when it opens, more or less to keep it from fluttering, when you run high boost b/c the stiffer you put it to hold that high boost will limit how much it opens resulting in fluttering b/c all that boost can't get out all at once, so when you hook up the extra nipple it apllies boost to the bottom of the seat so when it releases it opens instantly and stays open till boost is gone then closes. Also you say it's used so the previous owner of it probably did the single spring mod to it and no matter how stiff you make it the one spring isn't stiff enough to keep it closed unti it's supposed to open.
 
Well the way i see it you have two options. One the springs are worn out which abviously means they can't hold boost. The other options is using an 1g bov. 1g bov are the best and hold better boost for our cars, so don't even try and spending more money on the greddy bov.
 
Maybe your diaphragm is torn, but I'd think you looked at that while you were in there. Perhaps you have a bad leak where it mounts to your i/c piping?

As far as adjustment, I never found that bov to work without surging with the two springs inside. Based on test results of someone else (I can't remember who, and I don't remember if the thread was here or on evolutionm.net) I yanked the lighter/smaller of the two springs on the inside and re-installed with the pre-tension only just tightened (so the screw holds in place). This gave me no surging and "felt" like it was holding the boost properly. I haven't tested back to back on a dyno but boost leak tests are fine. Sound was decreased from the loud whoosh to a pissy whistle, but I'm after performance more than looks/sound.

I pursued this solution because with both springs I had very bad surging. They held boost fine, and made the noise sound great when opening, but I got lots of compressor surge, even with the pre-tension backed all the way out. I tried using the lower nipple connected to a pre-tb source, and the effects were extreme lag (I'm guessing it was just leaking out while the turbo was trying to spool) and the bov went somewhat quiet. I run 21-22 psi for anyone's reference.

Oh the reason I put the Greddy type-s bov on my car was my former 1g bov leaked at around 20psi I think. Was a long time ago when I was testing it but sure enough it was leaking. Not saying 1gs can't hold more and that mine was in perfect working order as I didn't bother investigating further and just replaced it with a used Greddy type-s I found.
 
The lower nipple is there for an extra boost source so the valve will react faster when it opens, more or less to keep it from fluttering, when you run high boost b/c the stiffer you put it to hold that high boost will limit how much it opens resulting in fluttering b/c all that boost can't get out all at once, so when you hook up the extra nipple it apllies boost to the bottom of the seat so when it releases it opens instantly and stays open till boost is gone then closes. Also you say it's used so the previous owner of it probably did the single spring mod to it and no matter how stiff you make it the one spring isn't stiff enough to keep it closed unti it's supposed to open.

When I took it apart to clean it, it had both springs in it. So I should be fine hooking up the lower nipple then at 16 psi? Thanks for the comments.
 
When I took it apart to clean it, it had both springs in it. So I should be fine hooking up the lower nipple then at 16 psi? Thanks for the comments.

Yea, you shouldn't have any problems running it that way, I've had mine that way for about a year or more. Hey, that's why greedy put it there, LOL. What I did for mine was take the hat off and you'll see the part where the boost will come through and what you'll do then is line up one of the hole with that lower nipple so the boost enter the chamber freely then re-assemble, install it back on the pipe then use a boost leak tester to test the section of pipe the bov sits on and put a cap on the other end and leak test this section of pipe, outside the car is much easier. Then pressurize the pipe and bov to the boost your runing and ajust the bov accordingly until it stops leaking amd re-install. When I first got my car my type s was leaking too and I did that and it holds boost great. If it still leak then it might be time for a new one.
 
When I took apart the bov I connect the hole to the lower nipple hole. I see what you are talking about. So when you hook up the lower nipple to a boost source, such as the turbo/wastegate line, the boost will come through the lower nipple to hold down the valve? So I can adjust the screw half way out and it will hold boost?
 
When I took apart the bov I connect the hole to the lower nipple hole. I see what you are talking about. So when you hook up the lower nipple to a boost source, such as the turbo/wastegate line, the boost will come through the lower nipple to hold down the valve? So I can adjust the screw half way out and it will hold boost?

Yeah, once you have that setup that way you shouldn't need it all the way down. For a referance I run about 15-17 psi daily, and mine is set to about 6 or 7 threads above the locknut and doesn't leak at all.
 
Ok somethings wrong. I hooked everything up right. It is about 3 threads out and it still doesnt hold boost. I then tightened it all the way down and got really bad surge. I still don't know what the problem can be. Should I cut the little spring in half and tighten it all the way down?I was thinking if I should put in another little spring to hold boost better. Any ideas?
 
I wouldn't mess around with cutting or adding springs. Tons of people use this same BOV with no problems. Either your doing something wrong or maybe the BOV is broken.
 
Heres an update. Its holding great now but when I drive and hit full boost the car bogs and backfires hard. I was acclerating onto the freeway in 3rd and when it got to 4000 rpms the car felt like I just hit the brakes and I saw a 5 foot flame shoot out the exhuast. I don't understand whats going on.
 
Sup alex, my friend told me it might be fuel cut out. Plus I used that rtv sealant I borrowed from you. When I boosted and had that backfire, my boost gauge read 18 psi. I was hitting 16 psi before. Now correct me if I'm wrong but don't you get fuel cut past 16 psi on stock injector and fuel pump?
 
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