need help installing greddy type s BOV

[jgrab]

whats up guys i just bought the punishment racing fmic kit and they gave me a type s bov with it and i cant seem to figure out how to hook it up.....the new j-pipe they gave me dosent have the nipple like the stock one...so i have the intake mani hose going into the big nipple and the i cut that hose in half and t-spliced it with the hose coming from the boost controler which i have hooked up to the wastgate.....it isnt blowing off and i keep getting compressor surge or what ever it is called when it is blowing out the intake please help so i can boost.............

 

[JusMX141]

What the hell are you asking?

THERE IS NO PRESSURE INSIDE YOUR INTAKE PIPE!

 

[rush2252]

^^^ +1 there is only vacuum on the intake side. You only have boost pressure from the charge side of the turbo

I think you need to just THINK its pretty much common logic. You need an INDEPENDENT source for the BOV and an independent source for the WGA/MBC Try not to use T fittings it makes it a PITA for accurate tuning of the MBC


-Kolby

 

[97gst_spyder]

Ok, is which one is correct??

Does the lower nipple connect before or after the mbc?

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Or This one

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[EclipseTical]

the one Knochgoon24 posted.

 

[beihl304]

I do not have the quick release hooked up and noticed it is sucking in a large amount of air. I just put on an evo3 big 16g and noticed the bov wasn't nearly as loud as it was with the t25. I never noticed it suckin in air before and now even with my hood closed I can hear the quick release suckin air. Does anyone no if that is normal? Thanks

 

[Ethand14]

you should blt it and see what happens

 

[beihl304]

I Blt it and found a few leaks on the ic piping now the bov is somewat louder but I still can not get it to stop fluddering. Does anyone know if there should be a large amount of airbeing sucked into the quick release port or if it is normal? Thanks

 

[thewraith]

Unless you ordered a greddy type s from punishment- the bov that they send you w/the ic kit is a knock off type s and 9 times out of 10 it will not hold boost, will leak, and give you other issues like fluttering.

 

[cody92talon]

if u have it everything hooked an its still getting surge try adjusting it softer because your not running enough boost for were the BOV is set at and it wont go off. so just try adjusting it softer.

 

[beihl304]

It sounded real good with the stock turbo and I the knockoff bov was on the car when I bought it a while back. If I adjust it looser it just causes a boost leak and still flutters somewhat. Wouldn't it need to be tighter than the stock turbo due to more air flow? Thanks for replys

i also have Dejon tool upper and lower ic pipes. Does any one know if there should be so much vacuum coming from the small quick release hole

 

[ludenaa]

Ok fellas, I just finished installing the PR FMIC on my '95 Eagle Talon Tsi FWD and I must say what I PITA this whole process from beggining to end has been.
With that being said, as I apprarently thought I was finally finished I took the vehicle out for a spin, first gear pulled so hard however, the BOV went off as I was stepping on the throttle which I thought was unusual and the vehicle bogged. I drove a couple of blocks down on 1st gear as the vehicle felt like it was being deprived of fuel until it died on my in the middle of the road. I managed to start it right up and drove back to my home at 5 mph. I noticed that the coupler that goes from the J pipe with not nipple to the turbo itself was at a 90 degree angle, presumming not air to flow through. I also noticed that the coupler near the IC came loose and off track as well. At this point I decied to cut down the J pipe at the bottom of the "J" to allow more clearance between the turbo and the frame of the vehicle to ultimately allow the coupler to have more room to breath, it worked out perfectly and I managed to get a a nice bent off the coupler connecting the J pipe and turbo. I took it out for a spin and the exact same thing happen going on first gear the BOV unexpectedly went off, lost power and vehicle died once again as previous scenerio. I went home jacked at car up for the 30th time and noticed another couper which came loose. I have reconnected it and decided not to take it out for a spin until I figure out what's going on here. I can possibly think of a few things I'm doing wrong however, after reading many posts here I might have pin pointed it. I have the BOV top nipple (bigger nipple) connected to the intake manifold and the other bigger end connected to the dump tube from the intake. What am I missing here? I never used the "T" shape connecter which was provided in the box and not sure if that's even required as I am runnig the STOCK 1995 Eagle Talon Turbo. I believe is also not mandatory with a STOCK turbo to have a nipled coming out the J pipe, What am I doing wrong? any advised will be greatly appreciated as I need to get thie vehicle out on the wrong. I must also add that the valves tap like crazy after this install.
I apologize for the essay

 

[bertrenolds]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/attachments/bov-hookup-jpg.93321/
Is this still the correct way to run a type s with the lower nipple hooked up on a 1g dsm or has someone found a better way. I have my MBC running thru a t from the IM and split between the upper nipple on the bov and the MBC nipple after the internal ball goes to the wastegate. Should I run is like the diagram link I posted? please help, I have bov flutter and surge. Also instead of tapping the j-pipe could I instead tap the pipe running between the intercooler and bov?

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[bertrenolds]

Nothing but crickets.... Someone has to know if this is still the correct way to run a greddy type s since their info on it is all forbidden or gone

 

[PlanZero]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/greddy-type-s-bov-nipple-question.224445/

I'm sure you read this thread, also old and outdated. The herpetology write up is also inaccurate, since it claims that adjusting is pointless without the lower nipple hooked up.

I do not have the lower nipple hooked up, nor do I know of anyone who does. I assumed this was the norm by now, and I thought GReddy instructions stated the same. If playing with the adjustment screw doesnt fix your flutter, I would suggest dismantling your type s and checking the condition of the spring and diaphragm. Also make sure you're not leaking around the adjustment screw. These things are old and require maintenance, unlike a 1g or evo bpv.

Also, I assume this goes without saying: if you're running a knock off GReddy bov and you're fluttering I guarantee the diaphragm ripped.