Need help passing Virginia Emissions-High Idle HC

[travs_dsm]

I have a thread going on ECMLink forums as well, but I'm really at a loss (and probably in over my head) and need some help.

Car is a 1997 GSX Automatic
New Engine
ETS FMIC
780CC Injectors
FP T-28 Turbo
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
ECMLink (DSMLink) V3 Full version
New Mitsubishi Coil
New Cam Position Sensor
Recirculated BOV
Innovate LC-1 Wideband

So I am failing the sniff test. I'm reading 119HC on the Idle test. Max is 100. I am idling ~1050RPM(set in Link). Before I was idling at 750RPM and the test was 194 for HC.

Looking through my ECMLink logs, I am noticing my front O2 sensor is not cycling unless the car was just started. Once my underhood temps rise, it stops. I'm assuming this is because my intake temps during the test read 174F.

I did some research on the forums and noticed that supposedly the car will drop out of closed loop operation with intake temps >133F? If this is correct, that could cause me to run rich and fail the HC test?

Just to pass this test until I can fix the Intake temp, could I just lock the intake temp in DSMLink to keep the car in Closed Loop? Would this damage anything while they test for around 20 minutes?

Sorry for all of the questions, but I am in like WTF land here. Thanks for your help!

 

[Phantom DSM]

Its possible you have a lean mixture at idle. I woud check for boost and vacuum leaks and make sure your plugs are good gapped to .028 ngk bpr6es.
A poor ignition system can cause this to have unburned fuel in combustion. Check pug wires as well. Also if the o2 sensor is failing then idle mixture wont read right, its possibly leaning out after it gets warm.
Do you have a catalytic on still ?

 

[travs_dsm]

I am running a high flow catalytic converter. It passed before with the High Flow Converter, but that was over two years ago when it was completely stock other than the exhaust. It read 54HC back then.

I am running brand new plugs, wires, coil, sensors, everything. No codes, except the car sometimes taking too long to go into closed loop when it is warm. Never does it when it is cold started.

 

[1G Eclipse94928]

I am running a high flow catalytic converter. It passed before with the High Flow Converter, but that was over two years ago when it was completely stock other than the exhaust. It read 54HC back then.

I am running brand new plugs, wires, coil, sensors, everything. No codes, except the car sometimes taking too long to go into closed loop when it is warm. Never does it when it is cold started.

Boost Leak Test first, and are you sure your wide band is calibrated correctly?

 

[travs_dsm]

Boost Leak Test first, and are you sure your wide band is calibrated correctly?

Haven't done a boost leak test since it came off the dyno about a 500 miles ago.

I have no idea if the wideband is calibrated correctly. I will have to read up on that from Innovate. It is brand new, that is all I know. A shop installed it during the engine build. I'm sure they would have done that though.

 

[Phantom DSM]

Then we are back to vacuum or boost leaks, check all that with a boost leak test and make sure the o2 sensor with the innovate is good after calibration. It is weird that its not cycling after it gets warm. Does it start reading lean like 16,17 afrs ?

 

[travs_dsm]

Then we are back to vacuum or boost leaks, check all that with a boost leak test and make sure the o2 sensor with the innovate is good after calibration. It is weird that its not cycling after it gets warm. Does it start reading lean like 16,17 afrs ?

It cycles sometimes. It is very conditional. Like when I start the car up cold, it will start cycling when it warms up a little. Then once the car has idled a while and that intake temp is +140F, it will not cycle, or just cycle in spurts then stop.

Sometimes, yeah, it does show 16-20 AFR on the gauge in my car when it is idling and not cycling. When it is cycling it reads 14.2-14.9 or so.

I found this on ECMLink's site regarding closed loop:

All of the following have to be true for a full 5 seconds. If any single one is not true even for a millisecond, the timer starts over and trends in STFT will *not* be moved into LTFT.

2G Learn mode (all must be true)

Coolant temp >= 180F
Intake air temp < 133F
Baro >= 22.9 inHg
Baro &#8656; 31.6 inHg

 

[Phantom DSM]

When you mention 140 im assuming coolant temp, i dont think you are at 140 intake temp from intercooler with IAt sensor right..
Can you post up a log as well, this will help diagnose a bit..Full log to warm up

 

[travs_dsm]

When you mention 140 im assuming coolant temp, i dont think you are at 140 intake temp from intercooler with IAt sensor right..
Can you post up a log as well, this will help diagnose a bit..Full log to warm up

I will get a new log tomorrow. Here is a log of the car running after the failed Emissions test. I didn't have the Wideband logging (still new at this).

The IntTemp is reading 174 degrees. According to ECMLink's website this is the Intake Temp: "Temperature as measured on the intake temperature input".

The problem is they just pull the car into a stall, hood closed, no fans blowing into it and idle it and then rev it to 2500RPMs. This goes on for like 20 minutes. I don't know how to get past this short of just forcing ECMLink to lock the temp reading from the intake to 80F. If that is even the real problem?

 

[Phantom DSM]

Makes sense since it is heatsoaking inside the bay of the shop with no air movement. Ill chek log and report back

Looking at your log, im assuming your wideband is not in the 02 housing and logged externally, so its not showing in link. Looks like your stock front o2 sensor is lean and your car is in Open loop.
In Misc uncheck disable airflow since you are not using speed density.
Why is you evap solenoid activated ?
You need to check wiring on your o2 sensor, if it is bad get a Denso or NTK as a replacement.
2G Open loop mode (any one true)

Throttle position too high (varies by RPM)
Airflow too low (units are tricky, but it's very low)
Coolant temp < 51F
Coolant temp > 228F
The O2 sensor did not switch around 0.5v for over 128 seconds while running in closed loop mode. In that case, the ECU locks itself in open loop mode.

 

[travs_dsm]

I appreciate you helping me.

I am logging the wideband now in ECMLink, I just didn't have it enabled at that time. The stock O2 is present and the wideband sensor is downstream from it a little ways in the exhaust.

Here is an additional log of the car running with the O2 cycling if it helps at all.

 

[Phantom DSM]

No prob, ill do my best to help you
The Lc1 is set to Rear o2 but im only seeing voltage from rear o2 sensor. You need to check where it is wired to pin wise to the ecu. The pin you choose wil be the one you designate for ecu inputs on link
Hers a couple install link for wiring of Lc1 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...4675-innovate-lc-1-wideband-installation.html
lc1install [ECMTuning - wiki]
Also you can uncheck disable maf compensation on Maf comp tab, and do you have a 3bar sensor on your manifold or stock Mdp. If stock select Undefined for map sensor type in ecu inputs tab
Leave WB in ecu inputs as undefined since the wideband sensor is not in narrowband sim. You need to find the wire input its spliced into and select it on the assignment

 

[redi4axion]

There are a couple "homemade" remedies in this thread on how to fix.

ECMTuning User Support Forums

Its been a while but isnt there a featurein link to lock the intake temp sensor.

 

[Phantom DSM]

There are a couple "homemade" remedies in this thread on how to fix.

ECMTuning User Support Forums

Its been a while but isnt there a featurein link to lock the intake temp sensor.

yes but it defeats the purpose of getting the car running properly. The o2 sensor is not cycling and its locking the car in open loop on idle.
Couple of things need to be worked out and it should help his tune overall as well from what i noticed in his logs.

 

[travs_dsm]

OK I will have to take a look at where the first shop installed the LC-1. I have no idea honestly. Also, with these high intake temps, I think I am going to go back to the stock air box and snorkel and a drop in K&N filter (thank goodness I saved those parts!). I'm thinking that I am probably losing performance with the higher temps.

 

[Phantom DSM]

OK I will have to take a look at where the first shop installed the LC-1. I have no idea honestly. Also, with these high intake temps, I think I am going to go back to the stock air box and snorkel and a drop in K&N filter (thank goodness I saved those parts!). I'm thinking that I am probably losing performance with the higher temps.

Yes check the wiring coming from the wideband and see which color wires are splice, check the link i posted for install..Its a great help to log it into link.
You are able to Activate the fans full on in the misc tab as the car gets warm in the garage bay when they test it. its in the Misc tab on link

 

[TSiAWD666]

Aren't you exempt from a sniff test in VA? My 99 is. I know my 95 wasn't, but I thought anything after 96 was and all they should be doing is the OBD-II checks.

 

[travs_dsm]

Aren't you exempt from a sniff test in VA? My 99 is. I know my 95 wasn't, but I thought anything after 96 was and all they should be doing is the OBD-II checks.

Man, I wish!, but I have taken it to two different places and they say I have to have an idle and a 2500RPM sniff test as well as just the OBD-II status and something with the gas cap.

My old 99 never had a sniff test either. It seems odd to me since the 97 is OBD-II as well and even older! Northern Virginia is such a screwed up place sometimes!

I haven't had time to work on it this week, but if I can get out of work at a normal time today, I will try and figure this thing out!

 

[travs_dsm]

Guys, thanks for the help! After the salt was off the roads, I went back and took the advice here and on ECMTuning's forums, set up the LC-1 correctly and zero'd out the MAFComp sliders and passed Virginia emissions! Got my new plates and tabs for 2 years. Car is running great now! Thanks again everyone!