Need help on timing belt

[duy35]

this the second time 3rd time taking it apart. The first time i took it the timing belt apart and put it back together and crank the engine it sounded bad while cranking not starting. The belt was very sloppy. Then the second time taking it a part thought it it all timed correctly and tighten the tensioner its pretty tight now. this time started the car now it sounds it idling rough and it does not sounds good. Now i have apart again and dont know whats wrong. i was wondering if my valves are bent and what i should do?

 

[jayson427]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...l-installing-timing-timing-belt-6bolt-2g.html

read this over and see if it helps. also i would try to put your belt on correctly if you get it timed and turn the crank by hand is make sure its not hitting the valves if you are worried they might be bent.

 

[92AWDHX40]

First do a compression test, and check for timing, boost leaks, wires, could be anything.

 

[tsigreg]

Did the belt brake when car was running if so 99% of time you bent a valve

 

[duy35]

the belt was not broken when replacing it. i cant do a compression test until Sunday would tell me if i have bent valves. does my timing need to be correct before i do a compression test?

 

[bryanwheat]

Sounds like you bent the valves the first time. This is why you double and tripple check the timing marks and timing belt tension when you do a timing belt job on these. The tension is either correct or it isn't. It the grenade pin won't slide back in after rotating the engine 6 times and letting it sit for 10 minutes than it isn't correct.

 

[duy35]

That is not good news

 

[Alan11]

And yes timming does need to be 100% for a compresion test. It has to be correct at all times. If its not dont even crank the car.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Sounds like youll need to pull out the tools and get the head off.

 

[zoey]

As long as the timing belt didn't skip any teeth when you started it you probably didn't bend any valves unless it was *really* wrong.

Now that you've redone the belt, and you say the idle is rough, how rough is it, and did you mod anything else at the same time;

Did you touch the throttle cable?
Did you change anything about the throttle body?
Could there be any boost leaks that were introduced?

"Bad" sounding engines are (according to my father)
Rhythmic thumping, scraping, grinding, knocking, or clacking in time to the rotation of the motor.

Clicking, not so bad. Could be a flat lifter (not pumped up with oil yet.) Could also be loud injectors clicking.

Farting/backfiring/misfiring. Could be cross firing plugs, could be plugs are on wrong.

To correctly setup a timing belt you need that little special tool thingy with the two pins that lets you set the tension. I made on out of an unused socket, a piece of metal, a drill bit, and a quick hit with the wire welder.

-Zoey

 

[Beechnut]

Does it make a loud noise like every second? If so its a bent valve. If not then start over. Make sure you pay great attention to the timing marks on the cam gears and line on the crank pulley. After allogning the timing marks on the cams I usually turn the cams in opposite directions making them pull tge belt tight then Release my grenade pin.

And by the look of ## cam gear allignment points they are way off

Your cam gear marks are off too. Way off

 

[bryanwheat]

Does it make a loud noise like every second? If so its a bent valve. If not then start over. Make sure you pay great attention to the timing marks on the cam gears and line on the crank pulley. After allogning the timing marks on the cams I usually turn the cams in opposite directions making them pull tge belt tight then Release my grenade pin.

And by the look of ## cam gear allignment points they are way off

Your cam gear marks are off too. Way off

Look at the second pic, he has the cam gears right now. The first was just to show the deflection between the gears, the second was to show the timing marks.

 

[SrKegler]

Where did you find this information. With the pin in the tensioner you have a clearance of .138. Book spec's call for a clearance of .15 to .18.

 

[duy35]

Finally had some time to remove the head. So what do i need to do next on replacing the valves. where would the best place to get everything for a head gasket and everything else?

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

I see you still have the cams installed. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but those valves look fine. Note that with the cams in, all of the valves will not be closed completely and will only flush/seal perfectly as you rotate the cams. Are there any weird fresh marks on the piston heads besides the stock reliefs?

As for timing, what I saw bad about that was the tension. It looks entirely improper. We'll cover that once you get everything back together.

As far as assembly, now would be a good time for getting things done. If you wanted to upgrade to Revised lifters, large cams, new cam gears, or any sort of head work this would be the opportune time. Also a good chance to replaces gaskets like your intake and exhaust manifold if you still have those attached to the head. As for the Head gasket, a composite head gasket will do you just fine. Maybe grab a set of ARP headstuds and get that out of the way while you're in this far. If you'd like to be safe, take the head to a machine shop and have them inspect it for flushness and have it surfaced if need be. The old gasket material certainly needs to be removed.

Now, a quick question that I might have missed the answer to - When you did the timing did you reuse your timing tensioner or did you go with a brand new one?

 

[bryanwheat]

From the picture it looks like the exhaust valves in cylinder number 4 could be bent. The best way to tell is to pull the cams and fill the ports with water.

 

[duy35]

i used a brand new one

 

[Lou98GSX]

i would take all the valves out and lap them in one at a time and look at the valve face where it contacts the seat . if you have a perfect circle on the valve after lapping it in then the valve is good.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

From the picture it looks like the exhaust valves in cylinder number 4 could be bent. The best way to tell is to pull the cams and fill the ports with water.

Looked the same to me at first too, but take the angle of the head and the light casting the shadow, also depends where the cams are resti.g.

Absolutely correct though. Easiest way is as Bryan said.

 

[duy35]

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Does this look correctly timed?

I dont want to start the car until it was correct