The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support ExtremePSI

General Need help confirming my LC2 wideband wiring before I power it on

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Kryndon

Proven Member
944
591
Jan 10, 2014
Bulgaria, Europe
I read a lot of posts, guides, spoke to friends, looked at the instructions and my FSM, but I am unsure if I did everything correctly. I'm really bad with wiring, but I did my best to solder, heat shrink and fuse as much as I could.

I haven't reconnected the battery yet. I really want to confirm it with you guys first. I have the Innovate LC2 wideband kit, stock turbo ECU, NO ECMlink, welded separate bung for wideband O2, keeping my factory and rear O2s in place. My goal is to simply use the gauge to monitor my AFRs for the time being, before I get ECMlink later on. Here's my setup and how I've connected everything:

5amp fuse holder hooked up to Blue-Black ignition switch wire. I checked that it reads no voltage with key off and 12 volts with key to ON:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Controller RED wire soldered to Gauge RED wire and other side of 5amp fuse holder. The solder connection forms a Y, in this case. The spade end on the fuse holder goes into the ignition switch (brown wire) pictured above:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The Controller BLACK ground wire soldered to Gauge BLACK ground wire, which is then soldered to another BLACK wire that terminates with a ground, I will be attaching it to a bolt under the dash. Again, this forms a "Y".
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


The Controller YELLOW wire gets soldered directly to Gauge WHITE wire. The Controller BROWN wire is insulated as it is unused.

Lastly, because I want my gauge to dim properly, I have connected the Gauge's YELLOW wire to a switched 12v big RED wire on the headlight column switch. Again I checked, when key off, there's no voltage. With key to ON, there's 12v.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


It got super late, like 1 AM, so I decided to stop there. It's my birthday today technically (9th) so I really wanted to treat myself and the car with this wideband. Can anybody please look over my wiring and tell me if I should be good to go? Thanks in advance!
 
I would get your power straight from the battery to a relay that’s switched on by your current switched 12v source. These units are very finicky and don’t like to share power with anything else. I’d also go to battery for ground but some people go to ground at Ecu ground under radio.
 
I don't doubt there's better ways to hook it up than I have done but like I said, I'm really not good nor confident with electrics and this whole job took me close to 12 hours which is painstakingly slow...

I just want to know if my wiring is fine the way it is, as I fear something blowing up or shorting as soon as I reconnect the battery. I may redo some of the wiring to get power and grounds from battery later on when I install ECMlink, but for now, will this do?
 
UPDATE : I hooked the battery up and did the calibration. Everything was fine, even went for a test drive, readings are all normal without any weird behavior by the gauge or the readings. Really happy with how it turned out!
 
I don't doubt there's better ways to hook it up than I have done but like I said, I'm really not good nor confident with electrics and this whole job took me close to 12 hours which is painstakingly slow...

I just want to know if my wiring is fine the way it is, as I fear something blowing up or shorting as soon as I reconnect the battery. I may redo some of the wiring to get power and grounds from battery later on when I install ECMlink, but for now, will this do?
Don't say I didn't warn you, but I'm glad it's working so far. :)
 
IIRC the directions says to wire the ground that's common to the ecu. I have both the positive and negative directly to the battery.

That's in the case of running ecu software and also simulating the narrowband signal. My install was a purely standalone wideband for the gauge readings. Once I get ECMlink I will swap some of the wires and hook the grounds directly to the ECU pin, while running a separate power wire from the battery. Thanks to you and Vegas for the suggestions either way!
 
That's in the case of running ecu software and also simulating the narrowband signal. My install was a purely standalone wideband for the gauge readings. Once I get ECMlink I will swap some of the wires and hook the grounds directly to the ECU pin, while running a separate power wire from the battery. Thanks to you and Vegas for the suggestions either way!
You're always welcome to ask for help with the relay when the time comes. It's very easy.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top