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Resolved NEED head removal guide.

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TurboMeUP

Proven Member
51
0
Oct 22, 2013
Norton, Ohio
I would like a head removal guide from somebody that knows what they're talking about. pictures to if possible but not necessary. but i would be willing to pay 20$ paypal for a guide with step by step pictures. (if this is aloud?)

basically, got my whole head redone timing belt snapped now im back to the drawling board. last time i removed it with somebody that knows what they're doing.. now i'm by myself. so far, i have the valve cover off and the fuel rail off and the injectors off my next step was going to be draining radiator fluid and from there i'm kinda cluseless, i tried searching for about an hour but haven't found a guide thats step by step like i've been looking for . any help is appreciated :thumb:
 
Bolts or studs?

If it is for the 99 2g 7 bolt block, The stock bolts are TTY, and should be replaced
 
Yes, the head bolts need to be torqued (stock 7-bolt is 58 ft/lbs in proper sequence). But what Bogus is saying is that the stock 7-bolt head bolts are basically torqued to the point that they stretch and should be replaced, or upgraded with ARP studs.
 
Finally got my head off today. Wasn't bad took about 2 hours a day for 3 days (with a lot of screwing around and putting bolts in bags and labeling bags) to be honest I dont know how to pull out oem studs so ill probably keep the stock ones? Anyways... bolts and studs torqued to same specs or no ? And whats the sequance to tighten it back on (it'll be a while before this happens)
 
I'm in the same process right now, just going thru the OMGh, since I;m removing that I might as well..."

Shop manuals are def the way to go
 
Yes, the head bolts need to be torqued (stock 7-bolt is 58 ft/lbs in proper sequence). But what Bogus is saying is that the stock 7-bolt head bolts are basically torqued to the point that they stretch and should be replaced, or upgraded with ARP studs.

Hey everyone, so what is the actual sequence ? for both 6 and 7 bolt ? anyone care to write it down, i havent found it anywhere in the forums, figured this is a good place to stop and ask.
 
Hey everyone, so what is the actual sequence ? for both 6 and 7 bolt ? anyone care to write it down, i havent found it anywhere in the forums, figured this is a good place to stop and ask.

The sequence doesn't change between 6- and 7-bolts. The torque values do.

The removal sequence is as follows starting from the outside (1) and moving inwards (10):
INTAKE
4-6-9-7-1
2-8-10-5-3
EXHAUST


The installation sequence is just the opposite -- starting from the middle (1) and moving outwards (10):
INTAKE
7-5-2-4-10
9-3-1-6-8
EXHAUST

For a 6-bolt, tighten to 65-72 ft-lbs.

A 7-bolt, see: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/maintenance-repairs/434426-7-bolt-bedplate-torque-specs-sequence.html#post153040649. Note that the orientation of the FSM's sequencing picture is opposite of what I have presented above, with exhaust on the top of the picture and the intake on the bottom.
 
^:hellyeah: Now thats what im talking about, i just wanted both covered for future reference.
Now the pattern is what i suspected, but im glad i recieved confirmation.
And lastly the Ft-Lbs are verbatim as the manual shows correct, i have heard other numbers tossed around.

* Edit= i see on your link it says 58 Ft-lbs but that manual must be for a 7 bolt then.
 
And lastly the Ft-Lbs are verbatim as the manual shows correct, i have heard other numbers tossed around.
So there is no confusion:

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* Edit= i see on your link it says 58 Ft-lbs but that manual must be for a 7 bolt then.
Yes, the thread I linked to is for a 7-bolt. Those snippets are from the '97 FSM but ALL 7-bolt engines are the same in that regard.
 

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