1G 90 cylinder head removal help

[dugan33]

I got everything taken off on this car except the intake and the head is ready to come out. I couldn't reach the bolts on the bottom of the intake easily so I gave up on that.. :/ either way this thing should lift out by now. What's stopping it from coming out? I tried myself for about 30min then had my gf try to pull up on one side. Is there a trick to this or are we just to weak sauce?? Any input helps. Here are some pics of what I'm dealing with.

 

[pauleyman]

How many head bolts did you remove?

 

[TalonFULLtune]

there is bracket that bolts to the back of the intke mani and goes to the block and bolts to it. its like a support bracket. you have to reach behing the engine to get to it. to you get that off.

 

[Size9Zombie]

Yea u have to take tht intake support bracket off, 13 mm heads if i remember right, and then u might still have to pull or pry hard to pop the head free of the 2 dowel pins on the engine deck

 

[TalonFULLtune]

yes I do believe they are 13mm. when you get this off try to pull the head off evenly straight up this will help from binding on the dowels. normal not a problem but you dnt want to score any part of the bottom surface of the head on one of those dowels etheir

 

[dugan33]

Well I never put the intake bracket on when I first installed the intake so that's not the issue. Is it ok to use a prybar between the head and block? I'm not using this head anymore. I think I'll have to get someone stronger than my gf over here.[DOUBLEPOST=1414255192][/DOUBLEPOST]I didn't have a magnet to get the washers all out but I did remove 10 total head nuts. They were 14mm 12 point

 

[Size9Zombie]

Ok u got all the head bolts out, yes u can use a prybar just be mindfull and dont pry against other things n the engine bay for leverage tht might break off

 

[TalonFULLtune]

be carefull not to dig into the top of the block try to get between the head gasket and head. not under the gasket for fear of damage to the block[DOUBLEPOST=1414256166][/DOUBLEPOST]id pry on the drivers side. might be abe to find a way to use the engine mount bracket and a bolt for leverage

 

[Size9Zombie]

Agreed, light scratches, fine, but try not to dig into it

 

[mercaholik]

Looks like there's a few spots that you can pry against. By the way exhaust is on the bottom in the pics.

 

[Size9Zombie]

Good pics

 

[mercaholik]

I saw a few more places but they aren't all easy to get to with the engine in . Thanks, I try to be helpful sometimes it works even. And your right you gotta be careful and go be feel. If you have a long pry bar and use a piece of 2x4 out what not as a fulcrum.

 

[dugan33]

Thanks for the pics. The issue is resolved. Engine mount bracket was in the way. The one that the dipstick is connected to. I pulled the head off but I'm starting to wonder if it was even bad there isn't coolant in the cylinders. Also, is it ok to use copper spray on the block side?

 

[TalonFULLtune]

I wouldn't use any sprays clean the head and block surface really good. get a good composite head gasket and ull be good

 

[dugan33]

I found a couple strange holes that don't look normal for sure what's up with this???![DOUBLEPOST=1414262497][/DOUBLEPOST]

I found a couple strange holes that don't look normal for sure what's up with this???!

I was planning on using an OEM mitsubishi gasket. Otherwise I have a mls I got for free from a friend who says it has 50miles on it. I never planned on using it but it's an option too.

 

[Size9Zombie]

Fel-Pro gaskets r the best aftermarket gaskets, no coolant n the cylinders? R u having a drivability issue? Or a loss of coolant?

 

[mercaholik]

You really should check for any warping of the block and head. I've heard almost every alum head that comes off a cast iron block after 100k miles is warped. Maybe not much but a few thousandth's can be the difference if your gonna be pushing the motor. If your not gonna get decked I would not run a mls, you need a very smooth surface finish on the block and head. Fel pro composite has been proven, I think some have just swapped gaskets without any machining, though I highly recommend at least checking the head deck to see how flat it is.

 

[dugan33]

This car has a history of overheating issues. I went to get the stock rebuild tuned at a performance shop in greenbay. They refused to tune to the psi I wanted without the arps in. Reasonably so I guess so I paid the overpriced $400 to install the stupid headstuds. About 3 miles down the road the thing is overheating and burning coolant like none other. Time for rebuild #2
The shop refused to ever look
into the issue saying anything could have happened there are a number of other things they did
wrong. But that's another book.
I took it back to my friends house who basically felt bad for me. He put the cheap felpro gasket in and got it running all back together. He found the timing belt components all mistorqued and falling apart and the headstud bolts were finger tight which was why it overheated. Oil and coolant was pouring out of where the head meets the block.
Never go to beyond redline.

This time around I took it all apart on my own to make sure I saw exactly what's going on. My experience and tools are limited but it's been easier than I thought.

This time I think the reason for the overheating issue was the hole in the head and or the water pump that oozed oil when I replaced it

 

[Size9Zombie]

Its all just nuts and bolts my friend, sounds like it could b an issue with the head, might want to put a new thermostat n just for good measure, the oil from the water pump, oil could have mixed with the coolant when u pulled the head, have u have the head ur gna use pressure tested by a machine shop? If not i would highly suggest it b4 u ever put it on, the machine shop will also check the flatness of the deck at the same time and if it should need ne valve stem seals etc they will let u know, better option than putting it on just to find out theres a problem and having to take it back apart

 

[dugan33]

Ya the head was checked at a local weavers. Resurfaced head machined guides lifters new valve seals cleaned new super tech springs and retainers crower 264 stage 1 cams. I got that head used from another guy that got ripped off at beyond redline. He brought his car there for timing arps, rebuilt head hks cams and supertech springs and retainers. All beyond redline did was put the cams and retainers in and clean it. When I got the head it was virgin never resurfaced and valves only had 50% seating

 

[chanceaguirri23]

I would check the thermostat in a pot of water on the stove top befor u put it back in just to make sure it is opening properly. That could possibly be ur collant loss and over heating problem

 

[dugan33]

I previously replaced the thermostat. I got a new gates one this time around just in case. I think the hole in the head is more concerning.