Need comments on possible CW fix!

[cudadrt]

I'm experimenting with a possible CW fix since most people seem to avoid the 7bolt engines due to the CW scare. I recently got CW in my 95 TSi after 120k miles and now have it out and looking to rebuild it. I'm looking for comments as I'm no rocket scientist or anything closely related but just another person out to try to help with the problem. As I read in one post by Defiant, you have to determine the probelm before you can solve it and I wonder if the problem might be the weak bearings and all the pressure on them. So here's the few details that I have for my fix. First I took a thrust bearing and cut the side facing the pulleys off so that I just had the one side facing the clutch. I then installed it in the last bearing spot at the rear (near the clutch). I then installed the middle thrust bearing and set the crank in. The crank fit snug and still turned freely. My question is does this sound like a possible fix since the pressure from the clutch would be riding on two surfaces instead of just one? The modified bearing doesn't seem to interfere with anything on the crank. The ned of the crank the flywheel bolts to also seems to have asmall step in it which creatly matches the surface left on the thrust bearing. I've enclosed a picture of the bearing installed and yes I realized after cutting it that I cut the wrong side off and didn't leave the locking tab. I did check and with the bearing modified, the locking tab on it will still set in the notch in the block. I will try it with a new one if I get some pros and cons back from those who look at this write up.

 

[BogusSVO]

looks like you may have a idea going on a low buck fix..... But a couple of questions.
1. what will that thrust face of the mod bearing ride on the crank?
2. will it recive enough lube for extended use?

 

[cudadrt]

Well the increased oil flow from the BS removed should be sufficient for the bearing along with adding an oil track in the bearing itself between the two holes in the bearing. As for what the bearing will ride on, here's a pic of the end of the crank that I mentioned in my previous post that shows a step that the thrust bearing will ride on.

 

[Defiant]

I don't know if you've run across it, but I've wondered before if the full-girdle of the 7-bolt might contribute to thrust bearing failure. The 6-bolt lets that bearing "float" apart from the rest of the bottom end, and the nature of the 6-bolt braces also allow for more give.

 

[BogusSVO]

Looks like a decent set up, when you going to try out some RnD with it?

Have you thought about a slight etch in the bearing face to the saddle lip to insure good oil flow to the crank/saddle lip?

 

[cudadrt]

I have thought about the possibility of the main girdle being part of the problem, but I also think it could be a god thing to have them all locked together for added strength. I'll probably try the extra bearing first and see how that works and then if it don't go so hot than I'll try cutting the girfdle off the main caps and have it align honed and see how it works.

As for etching the bearing, I have thought about it and would definately put it in there.

 

[Defiant]

I have thought about the possibility of the main girdle being part of the problem, but I also think it could be a god thing to have them all locked together for added strength.

True, but the 6-bolt doesn't seem to exhibit "weakness" for not having it. "Locking them together" also means flexing and stresses in that direction have no other place to escape other than through the oil film on that thrust bearing's face.