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Need advice on buying a DSM

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Bobble

10+ Year Contributor
35
1
Feb 12, 2012
St Petersburg, Florida
I recently moved from Missouri to Florida and sold my 86' Fiero in the process. It was a super fun car to drive and attracted attention where ever I went. I mean it was immaculate inside and out with only 86k miles on it. Anyways, i'm in college and have been saving money for a car, riding my bike around everywhere for the past 6 months. I'm moving away from downtown and its time to buy a car tho.
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I just need advice on what a car is worth and what I could do. I've been thinking about the type of car I wanna buy and in an ideal situation I would like to have some form of manual AWD DSM. As im noticing these are hard to find in my area (Tampa Bay). Should I try and look for a solid platform and build on that? Or should I try and find someone selling theirs that they have already built up? Which is more cost effective? Also, What should I look for in a solid platform or a in a car thats already been built up?


I would also rate my mechanical savyness around mediocre. I did few bolt ons to my Fiero also, helped my friend a lot with his 96 Lancer. I was able to do everything fairly easy so I think learning wouldn't be a problem I just dont wanna bite off more than I can chew as I am a student working 30 hours a week.

Oh and thanks :)
 
Finding a stock unmolested dsm is prefereable, although modded ones are fun, you have to be careful and look for hack jobs or half assed work. When looking at one note the overall condition, miles, check out the timing belt, do a compression. Test, try to get documents on any work done to the vehicle and do a nice thorough inspection. I got raped on a 2g with a "rebuilt engine with 4000miles" from a "reputable" shop, needless to say I owned the car for 2 weeks, and drove it once, and that was on the way home with it
 
You can get lucky and find a nice, stock, reliable one but that's rare. And since you don't have any mechanical experience I would look into a different platform. Go buy a honda, I heard those are nice.
 
A clean, unmodified, rust free(especially around the strut towers), awd. The 97-99 2gb is the preferred car to have when it comes to the 2g's. Its visually more appealing and has the improved thrust bearing.

Be prepared to spend around 5k for decent one.


Clean 1g's are getting harder to find. They seem to range around 3k for a decent one.

Are you looking for a 1g or a 2g? Probably could give you more specific advice if we knew that.

Me personally i would never buy built. It could be more cost effective to buy built if you know absolutely what your looking for. But usually you will just be taking on someone else's headache. Hacked wiring, tired motor, self tapping screws holding the bumper on, and etc.

I like to start fresh. That way you know exactly what you have and what to expect. These cars are a nightmare if done half assed.
 
A clean, unmodified, rust free(especially around the strut towers), awd. The 97-99 2gb is the preferred car to have when it comes to the 2g's. Its visually more appealing and has the improved thrust bearing.

Highlighted part in red is ONLY true for very late 98 (probably 99 model year with 98 build date) and 99 cars. You would need to pull the pan or check the vin with mitsu to verify.
 
Highlighted part in red is ONLY true for very late 98 (probably 99 model year with 98 build date) and 99 cars. You would need to pull the pan or check the vin with mitsu to verify.

Good catch.

But its not really something to worry about anyway. Iirc only about 7% of 2ga's walked. Seemed to be more a myth dsm haters created. The clutch switch mod is supposed to help prevent that as well.
 
If your looking for a 2g i would look for a more stock one because from my expierences it seems that the younger kids are the ones that seem to own them and when mods are done, they are usually done the cheapest way possible, and/or the quickest way to get it done so they can drive it.

Also look around and throughout the car and look to see if its missing any bolts, or anything is rigged up.. that is usually an indicator that the car has been neglected and has more than likely been beat its entire life.

If your looking to get a 1g i would look to get a slightly modified one.. just my opinion because almost alll of the time guys with the modified 1g's seem to be older and more mechanically sound (idk why it just seems that way LOL) its almost impossible to find a stock clean 1g so id just stick for looking for a really clean lightly modified 1g if thats your route.. ask them if they have any documentation for the mods, and KEEP WATCH FOR EBAY LOOK ALIKES!!

whatever you end up getting i wish you luck man! there a ton of fun to own keeping up with maintence is a must tho

LASTLY! ONCE YOUR IN THE DSM GAME YOUR STUCK IN IT LOL so make sure you get something you like!!
 
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Get the best of both worlds ok I bought my Honda del sol with 98000 miles I have put almost put 40000 miles on it since then and it has NEVER let me down it's a great dd
And I get fantastic gas milage I payed 1300 for it honda's are notoriously cheep easy to work on and have a huge aftermarket backing. My suggestion is get the cheapest Honda you can find and dd
It and find a dsm that needs some body work or light mantance and have a small project car
Once you fix it sell the Honda and make back most of the money you get from selling it or keep as a back up car up to you good luck :)
 
Yeah well first off im looking for a 2g but if I find a 1g in great condition for the right price than I might go with that. Also, I really wanted to get a dsm because I wanna be able to work on it and maintain it and make it my own. Ive always loved the 2g's and the awd aspect just makes it that much better.
 
I wish you the best of luck in your search. I recently just settled on an RS myself because I couldn't find anyone in the bay area selling a GST or GSX under 5k. I'm currently having some work done by a local "specialist" who focuses heavily on 4-cylinder, especially Eclipse/Talon motors, and I'll let you know if he's any good and shoot you his info in case you need any assistance once you make your purchase. But yeah, seriously, good luck!
 
Glad everyone was so welcome to join him not to buy a dsm.Really if do it right the first time such as research find power goals get quality parts, and keep up on your maintanance she will treat you good.the less miles the better and the more stock it is the better.
 
I wish you the best of luck in your search. I recently just settled on an RS myself because I couldn't find anyone in the bay area selling a GST or GSX under 5k. I'm currently having some work done by a local "specialist" who focuses heavily on 4-cylinder, especially Eclipse/Talon motors, and I'll let you know if he's any good and shoot you his info in case you need any assistance once you make your purchase. But yeah, seriously, good luck!
Really? I am having no trouble finding GST's just cant find a gsx that is even remotely close to stock and reasonably priced. If everything turns out good than I would love to have his number :D
 
First off, a car is worth what you're willing to pay for it. When I searched for mine, my checklist was as follows:
Price didn't matter. I would've payed anything for the right one. (and i did)
1997-1999 with stock body
GSX (with high rise spoiler)
Manual
Modded or stock, didn't matter to me
Less than 100,000 miles
Little to no rust (no strut tower rust a must)
Cayenne red, magenta grey, forest green or kalapana black (not faded)
Interior must've been in near perfect condition with no hacked panels, racing seats, tach light etc etc.
The list goes on, I can't think of the rest I had in mind but you get the idea. I searched a good four months before I found mine 6 hours away in PA.
Traveling for one of these bad boys wasn't a concern of mine, I would've flown out to Cali. to pick one up and drive it back. During these four months i checked all of the east coast states, all the northern states that line Canada, and Cali and Texas cause I know that that's where I've seen these cars reside most, at least from my searching.
As far as you having a mediocre mechanical mind, DON'T SWEAT IT! I bought my dsm this past march when I was 20. I just turned 21 last month :rocks:
Anywho, the more I dug into my gsx the more I realized how simple this platform actually is (at least to me). I heard/seen people say 'a monkey could work on these cars', 'a 12 yr old could do that'. And after working on my own, I believe them LOL. At long as you SEARCH, all your questions will be answered. I've had alot of questions on some things but haven't had to post a single "help me I'm helpless and haven't searched" thread, because I've done my share or searching (and I still do).

Bottom line: Have your goals set for what you're looking for in your car. And happy modding! :thumb:
 
This is always a hassle anywhere in the US its either you find a DSM with 180,000 plus miles and in horrible condition or the exact opposite and 500 plus horse for 15,000 plus dollars but my suggestion is definitely find an untouched factory DSM you never know what exactly the previous owner could've down as Far as reliability goes and cutting corners to make things work and fit so that's my two cents
 
Glad everyone was so welcome to join him not to buy a dsm.Really if do it right the first time such as research find power goals get quality parts, and keep up on your maintanance she will treat you good.the less miles the better and the more stock it is the better.

Couldnt agree more. Both my DSM's are daily driven, one stock one heavily modified. They both start everyday and run all day. Sometimes over 60 miles a day. Maintenance and quality work/parts are key.
 
Highlighted part in red is ONLY true for very late 98 (probably 99 model year with 98 build date) and 99 cars. You would need to pull the pan or check the vin with mitsu to verify.

Actually it from 97.5-99. Half way through the 97 year they made the change to the split thrust washers.
 
Look for rust under the car. The outside may be prestine but you will soon find out working your DSM 1G especially Talons. No matter what heat blow torche or impact wrenches you use you will always have to metal sawsaw them and have to find the right bolts to match your repairs.
 
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