ECMlink Narrowband simulation log and question

[LTUDSM]

I moved my AFX Wideband sensor from the rear o2 to the front o2. Tapped the 0.5v output to the ecu's pin #76. With the fuel trims seted where they supposed to be . Airflowperrev - .25gm/rev and Combft +/- 1% Question is with that fuel trim hat i got my wb supposed to read 14.7 :1 but it jumps around from 15.3:1 to 16.0:1 of afr.and my estimatedafr shows 14.2:1 to15.3:1 of afr. Where is the problem of afr to be so bouncy??? and why estafr is not even close to my wideband readings? Any suggestions are welcome thanks....

 

[gofer]

You want your idle/cruise (closedloop) AFR's to cycle around 14.7:1, your AFREst is spot on with what it should be doing. Watch your gauge when you let the car idle, make sure whats being logged in dsmlink is the same as whats being displayed on the gauge.

You did a good job adjusting the WB switch point voltage to 4.71v, I wasn't sure you'd catch that or not. Let me know if the gauge AFR's reflect your logged AFR's accurately and we'll go from there.

 

[LTUDSM]

You want your idle/cruise (closedloop) AFR's to cycle around 14.7:1, your AFREst is spot on with what it should be doing. Watch your gauge when you let the car idle, make sure whats being logged in dsmlink is the same as whats being displayed on the gauge.

You did a good job adjusting the WB switch point voltage to 4.71v, I wasn't sure you'd catch that or not. Let me know if the gauge AFR's reflect your logged AFR's accurately and we'll go from there.

yeah my my wb gauge and ecmlink log numbers are dead accurate . But i see,that im to lean....

 

[gofer]

Give the car a good BLT, and if you just did one last week that wasn't recent enough. A small vacuum leak will create a lean idle condition, typically around the TB or IM.

 

[LTUDSM]

Give the car a good BLT, and if you just did one last week that wasn't recent enough. A small vacuum leak will create a lean idle condition, typically around the TB or IM.

Can you confirm ,that my fuel settings are good looking at the ecudirect access ? I can't go down from 15 afr to 14..... tried adding fuel,but then my airflowperrev is automatically raising up....

 

[gofer]

Your cars fuel trim settings are exactly where they need to be, 0.25 AirflowPerRev and CombinedFT cycling around 0%. Do a BLT and I bet you find a vacuum leak around the TB/IM, once you fix it you're idle AFR's will drop to 14.7:1.

 

[LTUDSM]

Your cars fuel trim settings are exactly where they need to be, 0.25 AirflowPerRev and CombinedFT cycling around 0%. Do a BLT and I bet you find a vacuum leak around the TB/IM, once you fix it you're idle AFR's will drop to 14.7:1.

i got 4 vac lines (bov,pcv,turbo to mbc,mbc to wastegate) i replaced them 3 days ago. i got tbolt clamps on my ic piping. Is it a good idea,to mount the bl tester straight on the tb and check the leaks at tb and im? Because when i do a blt ,i always mount the tester to the turbo inlet and pressurize the air up to 40 PSI.

 

[gofer]

i got 4 vac lines (bov,pcv,turbo to mbc,mbc to wastegate) i replaced them 3 days ago. i got tbolt clamps on my ic piping. Is it a good idea,to mount the bl tester straight on the tb and check the leaks at tb and im? Because when i do a blt ,i always mount the tester to the turbo inlet and pressurize the air up to 40 PSI.

Its not the vac lines I'm referring to when I mention a vacuum leak. When your cars at idle/cruising you'll notice your boost gauge displays a vacuum measurement, in/Hg also known as inches of mercury. A vacuum leak is essentially a boost leak, thats why you'd do a BLT to find it. The reason a lean condition occurs with a vacuum leak at idle is because the motor is sucking in EXTRA un-metered air from somewhere.

Thats how I start my BLT's, by connecting my tester as close the the TB as I can and spray everything down with soapy water. If you see it start bubbling up you've found your leak! If you don't have any leaks, well you just shot soapy water on everything, just wipe it down and now its clean AND leak free!

 

[LTUDSM]

Its not the vac lines I'm referring to when I mention a vacuum leak. When your cars at idle/cruising you'll notice your boost gauge displays a vacuum measurement, in/Hg also known as inches of mercury. A vacuum leak is essentially a boost leak, thats why you'd do a BLT to find it. The reason a lean condition occurs with a vacuum leak at idle is because the motor is sucking in EXTRA un-metered air from somewhere.

Thats how I start my BLT's, by connecting my tester as close the the TB as I can and spray everything down with soapy water. If you see it start bubbling up you've found your leak! If you don't have any leaks, well you just shot soapy water on everything, just wipe it down and now its clean AND leak free!

ohhh man ,cm onnn don't make me feel a newb PPPP ill be doing boost leaks since i owe my 1st dsm ,which was like back in 2003 DD The reason why i asked you about mounting bs tester close to tb is,that i never knew if its a good to do that or its like an half ass job but thanks for explaining anyways hehe. But Hey , my bov (Tial older one) is not recirculated back to the intake. Could it cause me lean condition at idle?

 

[gofer]

If your running a stock 2g MAF, then yes.

 

[LTUDSM]

If your running a stock 2g MAF, then yes.

Did a BLT found two small leaks at tb vac nipples.the vac caps were leaking at 5psi. Plus found out,that my smim is leaking a bit through the weld. but its not big deal,because the welds start leaking at 35+ PSI. But when im at idle,non recirculated bov doesn't have anything to do to make my afr leaner.it not open during idle or something like that....

could these small leaks,that i found at TB could couse my lean idle prob?

 

[LTUDSM]

Well .my car started sputtering now bad.... It was sputtering before.but day by day it was getting worse and worse..... Went to ExtremePsi and bought 2 new sets of NGK sparkplugs .BPR7es and set of BPR8es. Tried both of these sets-no luck. Then went back there bought a new set of MSD wires. Didn't helped at all. So ok ,my idle is lean,car sputters. Only thing ,that comes to my mind is Fuel pump. Because the car on a low throttle before 3k rpm's sounds like a WRX. Sometimes when i press the gas pedal ,the car just stalls. After i shut off the car,the pressure from the afpr drops to zero in 2 mins.