The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

My turbo hates me, im about done with it

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Throwback23

10+ Year Contributor
222
7
Apr 28, 2012
Boring, Oregon
I bought this supposed e16g a while back only to find out it wasn't an EVO 16g..it had .004 thrust play so I rebuilt it with a trader Greg kit...a couple thousand miles later it was rubbing on the housing...thrust play was back...that's with OEM head feed and return.. so i put my old turbo back in no issues at all. I decided to give it another run and rebuilt it again, same Greg kit, New compressor wheel and turbine shaft ...this time I used an OEM return with a stainless feed from the ofh with a .079 restrictor. We'll like 75 miles in have a preceptable amount of thrust play that although minimal I would say feels like the.002 that is maximum allowed or worst case .001 more ill have to gets dial indicator tommorow and check for sure. It just lows my mind that my setup works perfect on my bep 57 trim shaft play but develops play so fast on the 16g...I can't explain it, my buddies e16g is on the same exact setup but is solid with not even that much thrust play...I also have a 14b sitting that is solid without any preceptble thrust over 100k on it ... Any ideas I'm about at the point where its getting old so I'm ready to cut my losses, thanks!
 
So is it a eBay 16g then?? If so you will never get it to work properly, mainly because you have no clue who made it and to what specs. The mhi 16g rebuild kit isn't your problem its the knock off turbo that is, unless of course the Chra is just to far out of spec in the bearing areas. I guaranty with a genuine evo3 16g or any other mhi turbo you wouldn't have this problem at all. Like I said I don't think its the rebuild kit or your oiling that's at fault here, its all turbo and I suggest you use it as a paper weight before it destroys your motor for good!!!
 
No it started as a mhi big16g ..or so everything seems unless someone used an eBay chra and put all the mhi components on it. That's something I never considered but who knows, it was supposed to be an e16g with a "clocked evo 2 housing to reduce j pipe angle" LOL but sure enough it was what it looked like. I'm trying to get this together on a budget due to what I've already spent but it seems theres really no way to avoid buying a different turbo...even with the new parts I bought I would need a rebuild kit and a new chra at the least... that point I'm almost at the point of buying a real rebuilt unit

On a side note I'm curious how the chra can affect thrust play, I was under the impression it was that where the plate sits in the chra wasn't an area of wear and that the plate itself was the solely responsible...now axial play I can understand why the chra could be at fault but I'm curious about the other
 
Oh ok I see. Can you see any numbers on the Chra or if it says mhi anywhere. It sounds like the Chra had just gotten to far out of spec, but its hard to say without measuring or seeing it in person. Also if the compressor or turbine wheel hit the housing than the bearings bore in the Chra is definitely to far out of spec and is probably what is causing the thrust to fail so quick/easy.
 
What do you mean it started as? They don't grow up and change. Post pictures of the turbo. Maybe it is the install of the rebuilt giving you issues.

Wow, yes that's what I meant LOL it grew up from a big 16g LOL...I guess I left too much to the imagination. What I meant is when I got it, it had all big 16g components...now it has an evo3 wheel...so it started as a big 16...now its diy evo3 16g
 
Oh ok I see. Can you see any numbers on the Chra or if it says mhi anywhere. It sounds like the Chra had just gotten to far out of spec, but its hard to say without measuring or seeing it in person. Also if the compressor or turbine wheel hit the housing than the bearings bore in the Chra is definitely to far out of spec and is probably what is causing the thrust to fail so quick/easy.

Yea, when it hit the housing before it only hit on the very edge of the exducer and a nice little ring..lll see if I can dig up a pic from that post, I completely assumed it was a thrust issue due to that it didn't touch the compressor housing anywhere else but at this point I'm feeling i was probably wrong to assume that much

Boost level on said 16G...and what motor oil are you using?

I've always used mobile 1 syn High mileage and I've been at 19 psi but seen a creep upto 21 today. As for the rebuild kit I get the td05 kit he sells.
 
Read this and you'll stop using Mobil 1 tomorrow. Maybe even tonight.

http://store.forcedperformance.net/...Performance Recommendations for Motor Oil.pdf

Wow, that was very appreciated...eye opener looks like ill be hunting down some brad Penn. We'll I'm kind of thinking an oil change, a steel 3 oil hole thrust plate (overkill?) and new turbine shaft oil seals are in order before I completely give up on this turbo.

Is it safe to assume the bep 57 I've used recently has a better thrust system thus allowing it to withstand where the 16g fails with mobile? I haven't cracked my bep open so not sure first hand on the differences between the two. Seems like the only plausable awnser I can think of right now.
 
Get the 'ol faithful: rotella t6 5/40. Cheap and does the trick on our engines/turbos just fine
 
The last independent analysis I read showed Rotella 15w40 Conv averaging 1300ppm of Zinc and 1100ppm of Phosphorous. The T6 Syn version has slightly lower levels (it even says so on the bottle), but Conv 15-40 is about equal to Valvoline VR1. Except T3 is $12/Gallon, not $15/Quart.
 
I don't know, Mobile 1 never gave me any issues, however I wish I could see that PDF again, silly work firewalls.




I guess it doesn't matter when your car has I'm-gonna-sh1t-all-the-oil-out problems.
 
I don't know, Mobile 1 never gave me any issues, however I wish I could see that PDF again, silly work firewalls.




I guess it doesn't matter when your car has I'm-gonna-sh1t-all-the-oil-out problems.


I'm not sure if this is in response to my ther threads where I had issues finding return line gaskets and banjo copper washers locally and thus had some leaks initially? I got that all squared away before putting daily miles on the turbo and feeling the thrust wear. I litterally just replicated what happened with my last rebuild except I was a lot less paranoid about it the first time so I wasn't checking it daily so I can't say if it happened at the exact same rate. Reguardless I'm tempted to give the steel thrust bearing, oil change and new seals a shot but can't help but to wonder how the other turbo did just fine under the sam conditons....that bep is a dinosaur so I can't find much on it but the only vendor I could find left says its a td04b... Isn't that the same if not a similar thrust setup? Hopefully I'm wrong, I've never had it appart or I would know for sure... There's really been good info and input so far thanks to all that took the time to kick down usefull knowledge!
 
Wes, vr1 is 15$ a quart where you are??

I must have been thinking of Royal Purple. The VR1 conventional is around $6/quart.

Reguardless I'm tempted to give the steel thrust bearing, oil change and new seals a shot but can't help but to wonder how the other turbo did just fine under the sam conditons....

I wouldn't suggest a steel thrust bearing. It won't transfer heat as well and rather than wear out, it could end up welded into one big chunk. An upgraded 360° thrust bearing with more oiling holes and larger thrust collar wouldn't be a bad idea, but I'd stick to brass either way.
 
Last edited:
I'm not sure if this is in response to my ther threads where I had issues finding return line gaskets and banjo copper washers locally and thus had some leaks initially? I got that all squared away before putting daily miles on the turbo and feeling the thrust wear. I litterally just replicated what happened with my last rebuild except I was a lot less paranoid about it the first time so I wasn't checking it daily so I can't say if it happened at the exact same rate. Reguardless I'm tempted to give the steel thrust bearing, oil change and new seals a shot but can't help but to wonder how the other turbo did just fine under the sam conditons....that bep is a dinosaur so I can't find much on it but the only vendor I could find left says its a td04b... Isn't that the same if not a similar thrust setup? Hopefully I'm wrong, I've never had it appart or I would know for sure... There's really been good info and input so far thanks to all that took the time to kick down usefull knowledge!

Hah no dude I am talking about my car having oil issues.


;)

You're good.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top