My piston has a hole in it

[goalieman24]

Finally got around to working on my $500 1g talon. All I was told when I bought it was it had a few bent valves... hah, I wish. When I got the head off today, the "head" of one of the valves was broken off with a hole beaten through the piston, as you can see in the pics. Somehow, all of the other cylinders are completely fine, pistons smooth, no scoring on the cylinder walls.

I guess what I'm posting for is what would be the best solution to this? I'd like to just replace the one piston/rod. But what is the probability that metal pieces got down and caused damage to the crank? Depending on damage to the crank, I may just look for a useable shortblock but would really just rather use this one, since all other cylinders are fine. What do you all think would be the best fix? I'd love to go ahead and build it, but I'm still in college and don't have a lot to spend... plus I'm really not looking to make more power than the stock bottom end can handle, just some bolt-ons to make it fun to drive(instead of my GS).

On to the carnage...

 

[fallenauthority]

Well really you wont really be able to just replace a piston and rod, the best way to do this would be disassemble the motor, drop the block off at a machine shop and have them hone your cylinders and put all new rings on the 3 good pistons and replace the one messed up one, at that point your bottom end will be all cleaned up and good to go and all you will have to do is rebuild your head and your set to go.

 

[TSIfreek]

Yea I would pull the motor as well and freshen everything up its not worth all that time and money to chance it. Yea those 3 pistons look perfect. You dont see that everyday.
Are there any dents or any kind of damage to the cylinder with the broken valve?
You might get away with having a machine shop do a hone on all the cylinders replace that piston, ARPs in the rods get all new factory rings and bearings and thats it new oil pump etc. Its not that hard just time consuming. maybe 1000 $ all said and done for the short block im sure you need a new head too.

 

[goalieman24]

Are there any dents or any kind of damage to the cylinder with the broken valve? You might get away with having a machine shop do a hone on all the cylinders replace that piston, ARPs in the rods get all new factory rings and bearings and thats it new oil pump etc.

I rotated the crank to drop that piston down, and it seems that the wall of that cylinder is actually pretty damn clean. My one question now is if I take it to a machine shop to hone, is it just like a "clean-up" and will I still use the standard size pistons? I've found a source to get a piston/rod and will just buy new rings and bearings.
What about the crank? I'm guessing it would be a good idea to have the shop check that out and clean it up while it is out?
Thanks for the help

 

[TSIfreek]

You wont be 100% sure that cylinder is ok until you get the piston completly out but I would bet your ok. A light hone just takes the glaze off and removes very little material so yes OEM stock pistons will be fine. Yea if your trying to save money a clean up hone will be all you need and just replace #4 piston, rings and bearings gaskets and I would highly recomend ARP rod bolts once the stockers are used I dont like reusing them because of the high probability that they will come loose. The shop will have to press the old ones out and press the arps in. Make sure when you take the rod caps off you dont get them mixed up and go on the same direction they came off mark the cap and rod with a # punch.
The crank is something to worry about when you get to it in your case. If your not sure you can reuse it bring it to a DSM shop to have them look at it but if it looks ok just a light polish on a lathe and put it back in with new bearings.

 

[goalieman24]

Thanks for the help.
Now that I already have the head off, what would be the easiest way to get the block out? I just need the motor out now to put on a stand, so the car can be pushed back out of the garage.

 

[ROOKIE1]

Leave tranny connected . Make sure you disconnect everything . Ac lines , oil lines , axles out , transfer case off and so on . Nothing is easy with these cars . But you have two so you already know that . By the way I am in same boat right now . New Sbr head waiting on bench and block going to machine shop next week . Good luck .

 

[BUCK]

Dude I'm sorry but if you expect any reliability whatsoever out of this "$500" Talon you'll do what I did with my "$600" Talon... & in the future ALWAYS Drain the Coolant PRIOR to pulling a Head.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=185236&highlight=face

 

[TSIfreek]

I think my first time I left the trany connected but its a real bi*** to get it out and disconected once its out. I have done it both ways for me I found it easyer takeing the trany off first while in the car so the motor can come staight out with out problems. You will have to find out for yourself but the first time removing it takes twice as long as the next time you do it. Just take your time make sure everything is disconected before taking it out.

 

[Littlebeeper]

if you have the money just do as the other guys said and take it to a machine shop. Same thing happened to me on my $1000 laser. i didn't want to pull the engine so i just replaced the head, #2 piston-rod and redid all the rodbearings since the oil pan was off. I didn't even hone or anything. the cylinder walls were still ok too. I've been running for over a year and she is as reliable as my other cars. Though i seem to be the only one to trust her reliability