The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

My Holset HX-35 project

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

pbwu1f

10+ Year Contributor
222
0
Feb 27, 2009
West Palm Beach, Florida
So after my 18g started to leak oil from the front seal, I did some research and it was between the Evo 3 16g or the HX-35. HX-35 won :D. So I went to Cumminsforum.com and looked around and got a used HX-35 7-blade for $350 shipped. The guy said it was used for about 30k and there was no play in or out but very little side to side, he said almost new. He had 12 transactions so I thought this guy is probably legit. Here is a pic of the turbo.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
[/URL] [/IMG]
So it looks pretty good and he said the turbine housing was ceramic coated which was a plus but I'm planning to go with the BEP .55. So I paid the man and after 2 1/2 weeks :notgood:, I finally get it. Open the box and not what I saw in that pic. I messed around with the turbine wheel and it was good, no shaft play in or out and very very little side to side. Then I looked in the outlet pipe and got really of pissed. Took out the compressor cover and.......
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
[/URL] [/IMG]
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Holy shit. Now I'm super pissed. Looks like the turbo sat in water and nobody noticed it. He didn't even block the oil/drain holes.:nono: Called up the guy and he of course denies it, then cursed him out cause he doesn't want to back up his deal. Asshole.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
[/URL] [/IMG]
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
[/URL][/IMG]
Good thing I work at a shop and have the resources to get this thing up and running. I bead blasted the compressor housing and then took a wire wheel to the CHRA face. I left the turbine wheel alone cause I don't know how I'm going to clean it up without damaging the blades.The turbine housing is unfortunately stuck to the cartridge so that's my next task. I need to borrow a torch so I can heat up that bad boy, and hopefully break it loose.
So that's pretty much what I got going on now, I need to do timing on my car along with oil,water pump, and maintained. So it might be awhile before my car runs again. I'll be sure to post up more pics as the parts come in and I install them.
 
Junkyard turbo....just like the majority of the Holset cores I get in for rebuild. Of course once they leave they're as good as new, but this definitely isn't a "30K-old" turbo in perfect usable condition as-is.

There's no way the turbine housing is ceramic-coated as he claims if it's welded to the center housing enough to need heat for removal. The dumbass found a can of high-temp spray paint and VOILA! Ceramic coated. :rolleyes:

Some sellers are just dishonest assholes.
 
Hey can you recommend a way clean the turbine wheel without having to remove everything? I heard there's a gel specially made to clean the turbine wheel? I might even send it you just so it gets double checked, cause I don't want to install it and then there some old dirt inside that jams the bearing. Thanks
 
Carefully using a fine wire brush and some varsol or parts/carb cleaner might work. That sux that you got burned by a unscrupulous seller... there are too many of them out there. I would post the sellers name and your situation in as many places as you can to prevent others from buying from him/her. The whole turbo likely needs to be disassembled, cleaned and rebalanced. Given the 5 figure rpm that a turbo turns, even a slight imbalance could cause premature failure. Best of luck getting it up and running again.
 
Hey can you recommend a way clean the turbine wheel without having to remove everything?
Nope, although I'd recommend tearing down the turbo anyway if you suspect that water may have been taken internally. I've seen some of the oil passages plug shut with rust on these junkyard turbos.

The whole turbo likely needs to be disassembled, cleaned and rebalanced. Given the 5 figure rpm that a turbo turns, even a slight imbalance could cause premature failure. Best of luck getting it up and running again.
You don't need to rebalance a turbo at the time of a rebuild or anytime the turbo is disassembled unless there is wheel damage or you are changing one of the wheels.
 
Well I'll feel better just disassembling and making sure it's all in working order. If Justin says I don't need to re-balance the turbo, I believe him. There are a lot of people on here that say he is good. Next time I get a change I'm going to disassemble it and clean it up good. Thanks for all the help and I'll post some pics after I get it all sorted out.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top