My Complete 6 Bolt Build. (lots of pics)

[MyÜberFastGSX]

Well it's taken me a little over 3 months now, but I finally completed my 6 bolt build. There were so many times that I just felt like giving up and towing the car off a cliff, but it's all been worth it now that it's done.

This is everything I bought for the build:
JDM 6 bolt block
Weisco forged Pistons
Brian Crower Connecting Rods
Clevite Bearings
Walboro 255 lph
Precision 780cc injectors
Aem High Flow fuel rail
Toga Oil Pump
Extreme Turbo Systems FMIC
PTE 5027 Turbo
B&M external oil cooler
3 inch GM MAS
Evo3 Exhaust Mani
Tial 38mm WG
Greddy Type RS BOV
3 Inch Custom Turbo Back Exhaust

I'm sure there's more, but that's the jest of it.


So here's what I had to work with:

1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX

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We bought a brand new JDM 6 bolt 4G63 block, and turned the stock crank.

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Then dropped in Weisco Forged Pistons.

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We took a 2g head and grinded and reseated the valves.

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Then dropped the cams in.

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Put the head and Valve Cover on.

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Fuel Rail: Check

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Then I bought an EVO III exhaust manifold, and welded a wastegate flange on top of the number one runner.

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[MyÜberFastGSX]

Bolt the Exhaust Manifold on.

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We also rebuilt the transmission. Unfortunately I didn't get any pictures of that, but here we are bolting the transmission on getting ready to drop the engine and tranny in.

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And in she goes.

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And It's In!

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This is our custom Air Cooled oil cooler. We mounted it right there because it can get air from the sidemount vent in the bumper, and because it rains here all the time, so when it's raining the tire actually throws water onto the oil cooler which makes it even more efficient.

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Putting the Intercooler Piping On.

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And it's Ready to Start.

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So we tried to start it and it wasn't getting any spark. So we found out that it was the coil packs. So we replaced those and it started right up. After running for about 5 minutes, oil started squirting everywhere. We tracked it down, and what had happened was one of the freeze plugs from the Balance Shaft Removal Kit fell out.

 

[MyÜberFastGSX]

So to make sure that would never happen again, we machined some plugs and welded them in.

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Right now I've already put about 800 miles on the engine. I'm running on 5w-30 motor oil until about 2000 miles, and then I'll switch to synthetic. I did three oil changes before 500 miles, and everything looked great.

I'm currently tuning with MAFT until I get my Megasquirt or DSMLink, so I'm only running about 17 psi right now, but it feels good at 17.

Here is my custom gauge pod for my boost guage and turbo timer.

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So in the end this project cost me a little over $6000, which seems like alot, but we did everything right.

I still have alot of work to do. I'm currently running open Wastegate, so I have black suit all over the engine bay, and the heat from it melted one of my fan blades. But I'm almost done fabbing up my Wastegate dump tube. Then when I'm done with that I'm gonna throw in my BC272 cams. Then dyno time.

Well it's been a journey I hope you all enjoy reading it as much as I enjoyed building it.

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-Darrel

 

[brute]

You really like the peace sign.

Looks like people are beginning to learn to not cut corners. It's a good lesson to learn in the beginning. Good luck with the project!

 

[MyÜberFastGSX]

Yea, I don't think this engine would have ran without the peace sign .

I definitely didn't want to cut corners on this project, there's alot at stake when you are doing a build on this scale, and it's not worth it to try to save a few dollars.

 

[Zack Huffman]

Looks nice, lots of work involved there. Which Clevite bearings did you use? I heard that the tri-metal 77's are no longer really tri-metal...

I'm working on a 4G64 build right now, here's the thread, I guess you can't really post there because of your member status, but maybe you could PM me if you have any tips for me.

 

[MyÜberFastGSX]

Yea, that member status thing cracks me up.

Because I'm definitely a newbie.

 

[Burnett03]

like i posted on dsmtalk please do something about that oil cooler setup before you ruin that new motor.. never used barbed fittings with clamps on an oil cooler setup, especially one with no balance shafts because the pressure is higher.. only use an fittings or pushlock fittings and secondly that is bad placement for that cooler.. rocks and mud will put a hole through it rather quickly without a splash shield..

 

[snox135]

The hose barb fittings with clamps will hold the pressure fine. I have used them at 200 psi before and never had any problems. I would move the cooler, a rock hits that and you could be out of oil.

 

[MyÜberFastGSX]

Like I said on DSM talk, I've already replaced the fittings on the oil cooler lines.

Also, my engine isn't running high oil pressure due to BS removal.

The reason why most people that do BS removal kits run high oil pressure is because they don't knock out the stock galley rings that have holes in them, and put in solid galley rings. Which will seal up the galleys and run lower pressure.

 

[MyÜberFastGSX]

I'm also going to mount a thick piece of mesh steel over the cooler. Just incase the tire picks up a rock and brings it all the way around the tire, and into the oil cooler.

 

[MyÜberFastGSX]

Just for clarification...Off roading wont be done in this vehicle.

 

[Slippi84]

yeah if you threw up the peace sign one more more time u might have caught a cramp in your hand haha j/k

Def a nice build

Just cause it may have worked for one user does not make it right or safe. Don't spend all that money and then short on fitting

 

[snox135]

One user? Those fittings are used in industrial applications eveyday around the world holding well over 100 psi. That's alot more than one user. Yes the AN fittings are better but the hose barbs do work fine. The push lock fittings use hose barbs.

 

[Artago]

Wow, the build looks good. Let us know when you get it on the dyno. Good luck. -Tom

 

[MyÜberFastGSX]

Thanks Guys. I'm gonna throw in my cams some time next week then go dyno on C16 and see what happens.

 

[WOTDSM]

Is there really only 279 miles on your car?

 

[DSMunknown]

Not too shabby. Ideally, you would want to bring the engine from underneath though (and, more appropriately speaking, taking the entire front end off too).

I only bring this up because this came up at a local meet today. Brian (redeclipse7782) was talking about his experience with the difficulties of dropping in the engine (and how it's near impossible not to scrap the sides every so often) and taking some of the engine bay liner he installed in the process. I mentioned that he could have avoided that issue by bringing it up from the bottom.

Of course, it would also be nice to have a hoist or have access to one to help with this particular method.

 

[i n t e l]

That is a very nice build my friend.

Seems to me like you reached for the stars and got a piece of them .

Very nice car, will be looking forward to see what it will do on the dyno.

 

[MyÜberFastGSX]

Thanks man. We should see about 400awhp with the stock cams, hopefully 450awhp with cams.

 

[Slippi84]

One user? Those fittings are used in industrial applications eveyday around the world holding well over 100 psi. That's alot more than one user. Yes the AN fittings are better but the hose barbs do work fine. The push lock fittings use hose barbs.

i'll conceed to the idea that it will work but just my .02 built motor and all that money why risk it over what another 20 bucs or so.

 

[GloriousDSM]

Peace sign

 

[Cs4g63]

Damn good work. Thats the type of build everyone should do.

 

[hereitcomes]

you should actually have more oil pressure due to the BS removal. I have both of mine out and I have perfect pressure all the time with 10-30 synthetic. Great job on the build too.

 

[kmoore]

I would still like to know how you got that texture on that gauge pod in the center vent?