6 bolt build

[dale187]

Hey guys just wanted to let everyone know that im getting ready for a build as soon as taxes get here but i wanna get idea of EVERYTHING im doing. I have idea what im doing with bottom end already. I think im going to with stock bore with forged interals all the way to main bearings. But my question is, what hp is the stock crankshaft rated for because i don't wanna go with a stroker simply because i don't have that kinda money. And without the stroker can i still hit 450-500hp? Anyways with the head what things are necessary to upgrade and what can i get away without upgrading? I researched a little and found a lot of help just wanna hear from people with experience with it too. Be as detailed as you guys can. Thanks guys. Also if you want through in some turbo ideas too. I'm researching now on forced induction and fuel mangement at the moment but live advice would help alot too. Thanks

 

[Hcaruso4]

you must get head studs. As far as how much power the stock crank is rated for i know people who have run over 400whp on the stock crank without a problem. To answer your queastion about whether or not the 400-500hp range can be achieved without a stroker the answer would be definetly yes.

 

[dale187]

Why do people throw that much money done for a stroker then when you can reach that horsepower? What are the benefits.

 

[bento]

Strokers will produce more torque and faster spool.

 

[bluegs03]

the reason for a stroker is simple more displacement = faster spoolup of the turbo. The faster the spoolup of the turbo the more streetable it is and the bigger turbo they can run thus making more power

*edit* damn bento beat me too it by 1 min!

 

[dale187]

Do you think people that do a build without strokers regret it? Or are happy with their build. Anyways anyone want to throw in ideas about setups?

 

[viperlp01]

stock crank is rated around 1000 hp. I heard that from a very knowledgeable dsmer on dsmtalk. That will won't fail on ya .

 

[dale187]

Just got off the phone with a guy from sbr. Priced main bearings pistons rods, and complete stage 2 bc head 3gs. not bad? rated for 500horse. So i'm thinking 5gs total ill have everything i need. I think imma go with a 30r with 850 injectors? And of course fuel management

 

[ILLiCliPSE]

Ya, you wont have problems with the stock crank. I think Shep was running the stock crank for a while in his car if Im not mistaken. Im getting ready to build my 6-bolt, too. Im not gonna go crazy, just a set of pistons rods and bearings and the other misc. needed things. Im probably gonna set my 2g head ontop of that, re-use my BC 272s and drop in some springs and retainers, and call it a day. Simple, yet effective. There is no reason why you shouldnt be able to reach more than 500whp with the correct set up on a built motor. Only thing Id worry about at that point is the stock tranny.

 

[dale187]

What about my setup? I forgot also i'm going with the 9:1 compression

 

[BoredDSM]

Stock cranks are very durable. Stock cranks are capable of 900whp+. Stock cranks come deep nitride coated. It is a process in which cranks are heated in a chamber and the oxygen is removed and nitrogen is pumped into the chamber causing nitrogen to bond with the steel. This creates a hard outer layer which prevents corrosion and adds a lot of strength to the crank. Thus when people have there cranks cut, they remove that outer coating/layer which weakens it greatly due to the material being removed and the coating removed. (Note: There is a difference between a deep nitride coating and a regular nitride coating. The 4g63 cranks from Mitsu came with deep nitride coating)

I'm using the magnus 9:1 pistons due to there very effective quench pad design. It helps with preventing detonation and gives you better gains from switching to higher compression.

Stroker motors are very common due to there increased displacement which helps with low/mid range power. Helps with streetability and can give you a better rod ratio depending on what combination you use. Higher the rod ratio the better. The 2.1 destroked are said to have the best rod ratio in the 4g63 series.

 

[1_2befast]

There are guys running 8s and 9s on stock cranks. You are more likely to pound a bearing out of the bottom end than hurt a crank. If it were me, I would look into using a 22mm wrist pin on something like Eagle rods. That would mean you would buy 2g pistons and put them on machined 1g rods. I'm not sure if eagle sells a rod ready for this or not. For 500hp, I would say you are on the right track. Get some 272 cams or maybe 280s (probably overkill), DSMLink or some other ems, and maybe up the injectors to 1000cc.

By the way a 2.0 is known to last longer that say a 2.3 stroker.

 

[BoredDSM]

There are guys running 8s and 9s on stock cranks. You are more likely to pound a bearing out of the bottom end than hurt a crank. If it were me, I would look into using a 22mm wrist pin on something like Eagle rods. That would mean you would buy 2g pistons and put them on machined 1g rods. I'm not sure if eagle sells a rod ready for this or not. For 500hp, I would say you are on the right track. Get some 272 cams or maybe 280s (probably overkill), DSMLink or some other ems, and maybe up the injectors to 1000cc.

By the way a 2.0 is known to last longer that say a 2.3 stroker.

I have heard a lot of rumors about 2.0's lasting longer than strokers but there has been no proof. Care to explain?

 

[subie22]

ive read on the forums, since its a stoker theres more stress on the cly walls and will egg shape them. Someone chime in and see if im correct.

 

[1_2befast]

ive read on the forums, since its a stoker theres more stress on the cly walls and will egg shape them. Someone chime in and see if im correct.

This is what I was reffering to. It is simple physics. You know the whole rod ratio deal. More than likely though, we hear more about 2.3 failures because they are being pushed to the limit and people have spent a lot of money on them and are pissed and need to vent.

 

[BoredDSM]

I wouldn't see how it would put more stress on the cylinder walls. It just utilizes more of the cylinder. If anything 2.0's rev faster and higher rpm's which would make more friction on the cylinder walls. I don't have the time to calculate the current rod ratio's but I will later tonight. I'm pretty sure the strokers have the same if not better rod ratio.

 

[subie22]

Ive done research on the topic, i was thinking about doing it. Its has something to do where the piston is pushed up against the walls of the cyl. Trust me it will oval out the cly. But if you wanted to go 4g64 you sould be fine. That will also be a 2.4 liter. That seems like the best way of doing a stroker at least more reliably.

 

["G"]

Not sure why you would be on the phone talking to sbr about anything, but send your crank to castillos crankshaft to have it knife edged, lightened & balanced. They can also re coat it if need be.

 

[oVaBoost]

stock crank will hold the power Just get it checked out balanced, polished, lighten up etc. like "G" said.

There is no need for a storker kit the best way and cheapest way for a stoker would be to used a 2.4l 4g64 like subie22 said.

Get a set of 9.1 compression piston's, rods, new bearings and some arp rod bolts, balance delete kit and you should be good for that kind of power.

Get a built head with 1mm oversized valves, springs, retainer etc. mls headgasket arp studs Good set of cams some fp's 2 or 3's.

And for the last Get some good bolt ons FMIC, BIG TURBO, FUEL, maybe a intake mani and a tune dsmlink v3 or aem ems and you should be good to rock and roll oh dont forget clutch and flywheel that will help also.

 

[BoredDSM]

Ive done research on the topic, i was thinking about doing it. Its has something to do where the piston is pushed up against the walls of the cyl. Trust me it will oval out the cly. But if you wanted to go 4g64 you sould be fine. That will also be a 2.4 liter. That seems like the best way of doing a stroker at least more reliably.

There is no such thing. It would not oval out the cylinder. Do you have hard proof of this? Everything is compensated with the longer rods and height of the piston.

stock crank will hold the power Just get it checked out balanced, polished, lighten up etc. like "G" said.

There is no need for a storker kit the best way and cheapest way for a stoker would be to used a 2.4l 4g64 like subie22 said.

Get a set of 9.1 compression piston's, rods, new bearings and some arp rod bolts, balance delete kit and you should be good for that kind of power.

Get a built head with 1mm oversized valves, springs, retainer etc. mls headgasket arp studs Good set of cams some fp's 2 or 3's.

And for the last Get some good bolt ons FMIC, BIG TURBO, FUEL, maybe a intake mani and a tune dsmlink v3 or aem ems and you should be good to rock and roll oh dont forget clutch and flywheel that will help also.

1mm oversized valves are hardly needed. Unported 1g heads have gone 9 seconds which is plenty.

 

[oVaBoost]

yeah well if he wants every bit of horsepower/flow for the power then you know you will get it just helping out. you could use the stock size valves and will work fine I 100% agree. But remember built engine only last so long they dont last as long as oem.

 

[dale187]

Well i appreciate all the help you guys have been posting. I'm definately doing all this after taxes so wish me luck. I think i am going to count the stroker out. Really all in all it just helps with quicker spool right? And of course displacement

 

[subie22]

There is no such thing. It would not oval out the cylinder. Do you have hard proof of this? Everything is compensated with the longer rods and height of the piston.



1mm oversized valves are hardly needed. Unported 1g heads have gone 9 seconds which is plenty.

all you have to do is do a search, ive gotton most of my info from this site. Its not gonna happen with like 1k miles. But at the miles go up it starts to oval out the cyl walls. I personally have to expirence with this. Just did a little research on it, i was thinking about doing it.