My Car Won't Stop Reving To The Max

[donmagicjuan]

He's saying that every AFC install intercepts the MAS signal and sends its own "altered" signal back to the ECU. The fact that it's a different pin number is irrelevant.

 

[420Adriver]

He's saying that every AFC install intercepts the MAS signal and sends its own "altered" signal back to the ECU. The fact that it's a different pin number is irrelevant.

Ok.... thats not what I was talking about, there was extra wires I didn't use and I wasn't arguing with him I was explaining how it was like I wasn't running a maf sensor because of the wire being cut off and no signal being sent. Lets try to keep this on topic.

 

[GVR4592]

OK did you do a leak test yet?

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Um... here's something to think about. We don't have MAF/MAS sensors, just MAP sensors.

Have you checked the idle air control solenoid, maybe?

Moved to the 420A forums before you get anymore confused with 4G63 advice; sorry guys.

 

[420Adriver]

We did a vacuum leak test and nothing was wrong, I havent dont a boost leak test because i don't know how I would go about doing it on my car. I have never had this kind of problem with a bolt on mod, do you think it could be my intake manifold gasket? if thats blown with this happen? I hope thats not it and if it is I think I am just gonna part out the car I have replaced literally almost everything on this car from it going bad or being old. I just can't believe a bolt on mod is giving me this kind of problem, this literally happened within a matter of minutes, one sec turn it on and it runs bad, hook up safc2 then I turn it on it still runs rough because I had it programmed for my previous setup so I reset all the fuel settings to stock, I turn the car back on and bam, it revs like crazy. I disconnect my safc real quick and reattach the maf sensor wire and it still does it.

 

[donmagicjuan]

Um... here's something to think about. We don't have MAF/MAS sensors, just MAP sensors.

Moved to the 420A forums before you get anymore confused with 4G63 advice; sorry guys.

- That's good to know. Thanks

 

[420Adriver]

Um... here's something to think about. We don't have MAF/MAS sensors, just MAP sensors.

Have you checked the idle air control solenoid, maybe?

Moved to the 420A forums before you get anymore confused with 4G63 advice; sorry guys.

How do I check that? That sounds like that could be it just from hearing what its called, I sure hope thats the problem.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Actually, I'm not exactly sure how to check it... replacement would be the route I'd take, but I'm sure there's a way to check it.

 

[420Adriver]

Guess what I just did, unplugged my map sensor and it ran w/o reving so what does this mean? I know my map sensor is not bad, I wil tell you guys the minute this happened
1. start car w/o safc2 screen plugged in runs but like shit
2. hook up safc2 and still runs like shit because of previous settings
3. reset safc2 for all fuel settings, car revs like crazy
4 disconnect safc and hook everything together right, car still revs like crazy
Man I am dying for some answers, I have been hovering over my manifold all day replacing stuff and hoping it would fix it, I scratched my power coated valve cover to hell by removing it and putting it back on over and over again.

 

[420Adriver]

If I unplug my negative battery terminal is that the same as resetting my ecu?

 

[dr1665]

If I unplug my negative battery terminal is that the same as resetting my ecu?

Yes.

Personally, I would completely remove the SAFC from your car. It's pretty much useless. They are designed to alter a MAF signal to the ECU and allow you to add or remove fuel. On our MAP system, you can only remove fuel, you can't add anything, so whatever your "previous set up" was, it's nothing you can likely use. I see more and more people post up that they have problems and "Oh sh*t now what do I do" after installing the SAFC than anything else.

The car ran fine before you installed the SAFC, telling me there was nothing wrong with the car in terms of IAC or vac leak (which should have been your first thing to check). You can't doa boost leak test, since you aren't boosted. Even if you were, your kit is aftermarket and it won't matter aside from you not making boost pressure, which is what your fuel pressure is indexed off of, so everything would just drive like you had it set for lower boost.

Disconnect the battery.
Remove the SAFC.
Reconnect the MAP 100% permanently. The way it was before you f*cked with it.

That's what you need to do before anything else.

EDIT:
And what's this sh*t in your vehicle profile about a chip? What chip? If you have some eBay/Jet thing connected to your electrical system, you need to get rid of it IMMEDIATELY. (Oh yeah, and you don't need 36lb injectors, either. Not in the slightest.)

 

[420Adriver]

Yes.

Personally, I would completely remove the SAFC from your car. It's pretty much useless. They are designed to alter a MAF signal to the ECU and allow you to add or remove fuel. On our MAP system, you can only remove fuel, you can't add anything, so whatever your "previous set up" was, it's nothing you can likely use. I see more and more people post up that they have problems and "Oh sh*t now what do I do" after installing the SAFC than anything else.

The car ran fine before you installed the SAFC, telling me there was nothing wrong with the car in terms of IAC or vac leak (which should have been your first thing to check). You can't doa boost leak test, since you aren't boosted. Even if you were, your kit is aftermarket and it won't matter aside from you not making boost pressure, which is what your fuel pressure is indexed off of, so everything would just drive like you had it set for lower boost.

Disconnect the battery.
Remove the SAFC.
Reconnect the MAP 100% permanently. The way it was before you f*cked with it.

That's what you need to do before anything else.

......................................It has been uninstalled, I ran the safc for months without this problem. Trust me I am moving over to 4g63 I am already in the process of buying my awd turbo. This car is my dd, I just got done removing my bigger injectors and bigger fuel pump. I am just gonna make this for looks, bolt on mods, engine dress up kits, etc ,etc. I have no want or need to pursue the 420a endeavor anymore i just want a dependable car. I am already selling my turbo kit that I have been putting together for a year. I drive 50 miles a day to school and back. I have been under my car for hours and can't figure out what it is. I thought this was gonna be a dependable setup considering all the custom work I had to do, I have this car setup pretty clean considering its a low horsepower engine, everything is bolted in tight and I am still finding no evidence of leaks thats why I think it has to be a faulty sensor or something. Do you think I somehow messed up my map sensor? I don't think I did but I am throwing everything out there.
EDIT- I just read your edit and I just got done uninstalling all that stuff yesterday, trust me I know. It is off, and that chip was one of those IAT sensor chips I took that off a few days ago, I didn't like what it was doing to my car even though it had been on it for a year.

 

[420Adriver]

Oh and about the injectors, it was when I first got into my car and a vendor sold it to me telling me it was a stage 2 setup and good for me. It came with a highflow fuel rail but that was junk and wasn't worth it so I used the IM and injectors.

 

[dr1665]

Try pulling the MAP out completely and checking it for being fouled. I dunno. As far as I can tell, you had too much fuel and a bunch of whack-ass electronic stuff installed.

If the engine is redlining immediately, the first thing I would check is for a massive vac leak. I don't know how you inspected things, but I would still get in there and try removing and reconnecting all the vac lines to the plenum. If it's winding up really fast (as if you cranked it over at WOT), then you're looking at a larger leak like the brake booster line, missing IAT sensor, crack in the manifold somewhere. If you've got six or seven seconds before it reaches redline, it's going to be a smaller leak.

I highly doubt IAC failure would result in this sort of problem. IAC merely allows the computer to adjust idle speed up and down a bit.

Did I read you right that you've been removing the entire intake manifiold? If so, how many times? How old is that gasket? I wonder if it could be leaking. :shrug

Enjoy the AWD.

 

[4UH8ERS]

I dunno. As far as I can tell, you had too much fuel and a bunch of whack-ass electronic stuff installed.

OH WOW. I must say that is the first time I have laughed today and that feels great im saving this qoute. oh man my cheeks hurt.

BTW: not to get the thread off track. make sure all your connections with the map sensor are in great condition. no kinks ect from all your wireing gadgetry. Get some of the bubbling leak finder from home depot for 4 bucks and liberally apply it to both sides of your intake manifold and find that LEAK.

 

[420Adriver]

Try pulling the MAP out completely and checking it for being fouled. I dunno. As far as I can tell, you had too much fuel and a bunch of whack-ass electronic stuff installed.

If the engine is redlining immediately, the first thing I would check is for a massive vac leak. I don't know how you inspected things, but I would still get in there and try removing and reconnecting all the vac lines to the plenum. If it's winding up really fast (as if you cranked it over at WOT), then you're looking at a larger leak like the brake booster line, missing IAT sensor, crack in the manifold somewhere. If you've got six or seven seconds before it reaches redline, it's going to be a smaller leak.

I highly doubt IAC failure would result in this sort of problem. IAC merely allows the computer to adjust idle speed up and down a bit.

Did I read you right that you've been removing the entire intake manifiold? If so, how many times? How old is that gasket? I wonder if it could be leaking. :shrug

Enjoy the AWD.

This will be my third or fourth time removing it. My gasket was clean everytime it has even been ran more than 50 miles. I even had a mechanic look at it like and hes esxpression was likeWTF , he said everything was tight on that boy. And the reason I know my lines are good and I have no leak is because I personally replaced all of the with longer lines, With this type of manifold you have to run extensions and I have been checking them for leaks all day. This is seriously stumping me it is like I have a huge leak because it revs to the max with in seconds, it revs so fast my tach can't even register it yet because I have to shut my car off. I didn't half ass this job and I put alot of time measuring and cutting just to make this look clean. I keep going underneath my hood these past 2 days hoping its something I missed, it just sounds like theres a 10inch crack in the manifold or if you ran without a throttle body on, it seriously revs up that fast.

 

[dr1665]

With this type of manifold

What type of manifold?

Is this one of those Venom or OBX things...?

 

[Blitzeclips]

Is your TB cable kinked or caught up anywhere? If you've removed that manifold so many times you may have missed checkin the cable if it caught onto something during the process. I don't see how air can get through the plate if it's closed.

Like driggs said, check for cracks anywhere, gasket, I'd even check the TB cable for fraying, etc..

 

[420Adriver]

What type of manifold?

Is this one of those Venom or OBX things...?

Yes and it is a bi***, so much custom modifying. Let me tell you the story, I get it and im looking at it likeWTF where is the map sensor holes, so I get that drilled. I take off my stock manifold and while prefitting everything I am like WTF again, none of the holes on the back fit for the IAT so i took it to a friend and we redrilled it out. So here I am excited that I am fixing to install it and guess what, the injector ports on the manifold are way to small so I get it bored just a little. So these injectors are in there tight now and the manifold took me forever to get in there because it is literally a tight fit. I had to run my pcv line to the back and I had to extend my vacuum lines for my brakes. There is also no egr hookup for the valve so I had to buy a block off kit.

 

[420Adriver]

Is your TB cable kinked or caught up anywhere? If you've removed that manifold so many times you may have missed checkin the cable if it caught onto something during the process. I don't see how air can get through the plate if it's closed.

Like driggs said, check for cracks anywhere, gasket, I'd even check the TB cable for fraying, etc..

The Tb cable isn't even connected so I know thats not it.

 

[420Adriver]

I don't now if this means anything but I took my map sensor off and it smelled like gas.

 

[dr1665]

Okay, man. I know you're going to hate this answer, but I'm going to say your best bet is to put the stocker back on and try it out. You should be a damn pro at this by now, right?

Things that make me concerned:
-boring injector bungs
-drilling new MAP location

MAP should smell like gas, since fuel is introduced within the intake manifold. Even though it's got air moving through it, fuel vapor in an enclosed area is going to smell like gas. Your TB likely smells like gas.

If you go back to stock and everything runs fine, then you will KNOW it's the manifold and you can spend more time inspecting it off the car. Maybe you can get is pressure checked or something. :shrug

 

[bullettdsm]

Damn. I wrote you a nice post a couple of days ago and now I don't see it here. I must of EF'ED up and not sent it properly.

Anyway, the gist of my post was that you are getting air from somewhere. Vac leak? Possibly. I'm really leaning toward your IAC. There is a channel in that system to allow air to go through at idle when the throttle plate is closed. There may be something wrong with that channel. Are you getting air leaking by the seal of the IAC? Is the plunger working properly or is it letting too much air by? Simple check of the IAC is to have somebody turn the key off and on while you listen in the engine bay. You should be able to hear it click when they turn the key on. Take the IAC off and clean up the channel and plunger. You might see something goofy. At one time I had a problem with my IAC on the Jeep TB. Kind of the same thing yet not as drastic. With the plate closed it has to be pulling in air from somewhere.

Could there be something strange about your intake and it is pulling in air but you can't find the spot? That's also a possibility.

Good Luck,

MB

 

[420Adriver]

Damn. I wrote you a nice post a couple of days ago and now I don't see it here. I must of EF'ED up and not sent it properly.

Anyway, the gist of my post was that you are getting air from somewhere. Vac leak? Possibly. I'm really leaning toward your IAC. There is a channel in that system to allow air to go through at idle when the throttle plate is closed. There may be something wrong with that channel. Are you getting air leaking by the seal of the IAC? Is the plunger working properly or is it letting too much air by? Simple check of the IAC is to have somebody turn the key off and on while you listen in the engine bay. You should be able to hear it click when they turn the key on. Take the IAC off and clean up the channel and plunger. You might see something goofy. At one time I had a problem with my IAC on the Jeep TB. Kind of the same thing yet not as drastic. With the plate closed it has to be pulling in air from somewhere.

Could there be something strange about your intake and it is pulling in air but you can't find the spot? That's also a possibility.

Good Luck,

MB

Alright I am fixing to go check that right now, If I hear it click when we turn the key does that mean there is nothing wrong with it? And if there is something wrong with the channel how would I know thats the problem?

 

[420Adriver]

UPDATE- Ok I just took off the IAC sensor and it was covered in black greasy stuff, it wasn't noticable until you took a rag to it. I cleaned that up and there was no grease stuff on it at all when I put it back on. I started the car and it still reved up but not nearly as bad, before it was like you were reving full throttle now its like your reving half throttle.