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My Build Thread.

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slowgsr

15+ Year Contributor
862
10
Dec 17, 2007
hamilton, ON, Canada
Mods, feel free, i couldn't find an appropriate place for this, but if there is one just move it! Thanks everyone.

I will be doing all the work myself minus some of the welding, I will go though the build in general, and post more detail when the work is done.

I will try to keep all the pictures in the original post so its easy to navigate.

Feel free to post comments opinions on my work!.

Building consists of the following.

'JDM' Cyclone swap, 6 bolt 4g63, stock block, (very low mileage), 1990 TSi Talon, etc..
Engine stuff, SLS manifold, Silver Surfer Turbo, Tial 44mm WG, 3" turboback exhaust, re-circ dumptube, STOCK block, possibly stock head, i may do cams.. we will see, MLS Headgasket and ARP headstuds.
Fuel system, Walbro 255lph pump, Precision 1000cc injectors, NLR-AMS-500 EBC, AEM EMS, LM1 WB02, Greedy Boost/EGT, Mechanical Autometer Water Temp/Oil pressure, Aeromotive FPR, Liquid filled fuel pressure gaug.
Precision 600hp Intercooler, 2.5" Alum IC piping, all 6ply tbolt clamps and couplers, Tial 50mm BOV, ACT Streelite flywheel, ACT 2600 6puck sprung.

I am in the process of looking for a 4 bolt rear diff, i will be running a stock transmission and gearbox for now, when i destroy it i will upgrade as well as DSS axles/driveshaft.

I will be tuning using a VSC eliminator, FWD.

The car just got 1k in parts worth of regular tune up stuff, timingbelt/balancer belt/fulcrum/clutch fork/master/slave/rebuild pedal assy. etc etc...

Again.. Im doing this all on the stock 4g63, which is very low mileage, great healthy motor.

Goals.. Im looking for high 300's on 94 octane, and high 400's using meth injection with a splash of race fuel, we might scratch the meth.. see what the tuner wants to do. They say these motors are good for 4-450 stock, we will see how much i can crank out. I would like 11.49 or faster, and 125+ traps are the very least on high boost.

The only other things i have to comment on about this car are that i like working on it, its not too bad, and other then that, this is the CLEANEST 1G i have every seen, the body and paint are perfect for a CANADIAN SALT WINTER CAR, our winters up here are bad and salt gets dumped! This car is all original steel, original paint and the interior is beautiful, the pictures dont do justice because of the dust, but once the car is done, i will clean it up and take some good pics.

Anyways, Im current waiting on a bunch of stuff, including the sls manifold/turbo/wg and all my OEM stuff, so i was just cleaning up the harness a bit, as well as the longblock, the battery took a shit and the battery tray and half the transmission was covered in acid.. messy stuff, as well as some 10yr old grease on the harness and such.. I will clean it up and clean all connections and everything, i will spend alot of time on electrical on this car, most don't think about how important good clean low resistance connections are since so many of the sensors work on resistance...

Anyways, heres a few pics of the 'tearout'.

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I will probably update it every few days as progress is made.
 

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VCE viscous coupler eliminator, not VSC. If you plan to keep the car permanently as a 4x4, you may want to look at just skipping the VCE and going welded. You can still break the Center Diff with a VCE


Personally, i'd skip the AEM and get DSMLink. Use the money you save for a set of DKS cams and a manifold to replace that cyclone garbage. You'll be much happier.
 
I could just weld, shouldn't be a big deal, welding things has never really been a problem, i have 2 migs in the pictures, ones at the back of the shop, one at the front, and thanks for correcting me with the terminology on the VCE, its all new to me still.

As far as the AEM DSMlink thing, I will be using AEM, no ands iffs or buts about it, tuning is key, and my tuner prefers AEM, and is AEM trained, and i feel my tuner can make more power with AEM then DSMlink. The extra money isn't that significant. I just feel AEM is far superior to DSMlink, probably because it is, im not knocking the link i bet its a top notch system and has probably put many dsm's into the 9's.

I will probably be running cams, and i will probably upgrade the intake manifold as well, its hard to tell from the pics, but the engine already has a 1g manifold, not the cyclone one.

Intake manifolds and Cams are still something i have to look into, intake manifold will come first, since it effects placement of my charge piping slightly im assuming depending on design, and cams i can just drop in before tuning.

Another thing, If i cam it, im assuming adj cam gears is a must? And as far as upgrading the IM, should i upgrade the stock TB as well?

I was thinking of sending the TB to maxbore and having it bored and cleaned up, its fairly cheap as well.

I still have research to do, as these cars as so much different then what im used to, but so far so good.

Thanks for the comments!

No work today, but im swapping out all my engine mount bushings for some prothane bushings, i will be installing them into the mounts tommorow, i will get some pics for you guys.

Parts should be here any day to get this thing back together!
 
With cam gears on stock cams you can improve spool, but most aftermarket cams are designed to be installed straight up- basically they cut the adjustment into them.

Does the AEM have a no lift to shift feature? I'm sure it has a two step. TB and intake mani are good steps, there are a lot of options on the TB. Search around, i haven't read up on them.
 
Does the AEM have a no lift to shift feature?

full throttle shifting?, im pretty sure it does, although.. i do track my car, i don't really drive it too hard at the track, i guess you could say i shift like a bi***, although i don't typically have alot of driveline failures either, i guess theres a reason for it.

Yes the lift is very nice, I installed it a couple weeks ago, im tired of doing things the old fashion way!, the lift is unbelieveable, i cant wait to do some exhaust work!.

Im doing the mounts today, i took a quick look over the instructions, they look pretty simple to install and use no grease according to the instructions.. i did full urethane bushings in my honda and that grease was nasty, however the difference was worth it.
 
did the mounts today ~15min about.

1) Air chisel the old mount out, easiest way.

2) De-bur the inside of the mount

3) Hammer in new pieces with hammer.

Pics.

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Enjoy!
 

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i kind of have an idea on how they feel, should be decent, my old car i ran stock modified mounts and made them solid with steel plate, it still didn't bother me a whole lot, this shouldn't be as harsh though.

the stockers were torn when you flexed them, so im glad i did it.
 
yes two of mine were shot, the one in the rear was really bad and the timing cover mount
was split, not good at all, so i replaced them all.
 
well.. i picked up a engine stand yesterday.

and today i got the headgasket/exhaust manifold gasket/rear and front main seals, cam seals, fulcrum ball, injector seals, and oil pump seal, all mitsu stuff.

So i can get the flywheel and clutch setup on, as well as do the headstuds, busy today with homework, but tommorow i can get crankin'.. just waiting on a few other things also, but it should come together fast, hopefully i can get the engine back in by the weekend as long as the rest of the parts come this week.
 
ok.. did some more tonight,

CHECK OUT THE SPLINE ON THE SHAFT AND ON THE TRANSFER CASE

Is this NORMAL wear? It looks like there isnt really alot of 'slop' once its connected by the way the teeth are on the transmission and the groves in the transfer case, but somehow i have a feeling this is excessive wear.

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Now, with the cam cap placement, this is EXACTLY how we took it apart as far as order, direction etc etc.. but it looks like the stamped letters are on differently on different cams, does this look normal?? Someone had this engine apart before so it may have been installed incorrectly, but maybe not just some input.

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Now the BALANCER SHAFT BELT, is gone! It wasn't installed and the pulley hasn't turned in awhile it dosen't turn freely, is this an 'eliminator' kit, or was the belt never installed? Just curious.. It ran fine for 60k estimating since it was done.

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Now on to the other pics, just some random pics of progress made tonight, i must say every seal looks great, no leaks nothing.. the engine already had ARP headstuds installed, so i can use the ones i purchased on my motor build up that i do during the year, and i could have safely left this motor as it was and ran it hard everything checked out, and had been replaced within 60k.

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Big brakes up front.. new precision IC vs old tube and fin, other pics of engine on stand, how i lifted the engine onto stand etc etc.. Carbon buildup on pistons, probably was running on the rich side of things.

Thanks!
 

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Turbo came in today.

I was expecting timingbelt parts so i can atleast get the motor back into the car.. but this was unexpected, manifold and wastegate from same seller should be here soon as well.
 

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Oh yeah, last night i put the head back on with new mls gasket and i used copper spray.. never had a single headgasket failure with copper spray so ima keep using it!

Tq'd ARP's to 88ft/lbs, i always go about 8ftlbs over their recommended rating on headstuds, no problems.. talked to the tuner some more, things are looking good!!
 
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