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My 2.0L T3 Build

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efrainz28

10+ Year Contributor
169
15
May 27, 2008
Long Beach, California
I been reading a lot of post on the forum but I can't really find a benefit of being 2.0L besides being able to rev to the moon. Most of the fast ¼ time came from 2.3L or 2.4L. I m going to build my motor but depending on what I get(2.0L or 2.3L) the tranny will be built to handle torque or high RPM. I can't decide if I want to stay 2.0L. I want to see if there's 2.0L out there with good ¼ times.

Car Info: building
MAP Stage 3 Cylinder Head
HKS 272/272 CAMS
6 bolt bottom end (wiseco and eagle rods) 2.0L or 2.3L
Hx35 turbo with BEP t3 .70 (might upgrade to HX40 or GT35R)
Tranny will be built depending on the bottom end.
AEM EMS

It's my DD and also I'm doing an AWD conversion.
 
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Shep has a 2.0 and runs 7.7s 1/4 mile!
 
To me it depends on what your goals are for the car but if you going to keep it a daily driver and are doin only a mild build on the bottom end then I would go with a 2.4. The low end is much better and for daily driving you dont have to wait that extra 5-600 rpms to get that turbo to spool.
 
So I’m going with the 2.0L and T3 setup.:hellyeah: So no one will post there 2.0L setup to get hp/torque and resulting in ¼ time. :sosad:I’m going to post pictures of the parts and progress.LOL
 
I want run in the 11.5 ish but I don’t know how much hp/torque I would need on full weight. I would like to run in the 10's and have 800 hp/655 torquebut it might not happen since it’s my DD for now.
 
I want to run a gt35r but for now I might run a Holset HX35 with BEP t3 .70 if I can find one. Here are some pictures of the HX35 but I'm going to rebuild it and paint the compressor the color of the car. I don't know if I should run the oil line from the head?
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Here are some before and after pictures of the port and polish to my cylinder head.

Crower springs and retainers
+1mm oversize manley valves
Farrea bronze intake/copper alloy exhaust guides
5-angle valve job
Hot tank
Glass bead blast
Fully pressure checked
Fully decked head surface
Enlarged exhausted ports
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He said hes doing an AWD conversion.


I'm doing an AWD conversion and evo 8 brake swap. I still don't know where to send my Tranny to be rebuilt. Shep, TRE, Jackson, or dogbox I don't know where.

He said hes doing an AWD conversion.
thanks for reading all my post
 
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I would recommend the jack's tranny personally. I got mine a few weeks ago and he had some of the best customer service I have encountered, and the transmission came to me looking absolutely beautiful. Oh and it shifts insanely well, did I mention that? LOL
 
I’m doing an AWD conversion and evo 8 brake swap. I still don’t know where to send my Tranny to be rebuilt. Shep, TRE, Jackson, or dogbox I don’t know where.


thanks for reading all my post

Woops. I missed that last bit. :thumb:
 
I love my 2.3, driving around is great it has great off boost power for daily driving. Not to mention you can build gobs of power with it, I have the same cams you do and they work well with the 2.3.
 
i am curious about this too. i think i want to go with the 2.3, i want that low end power. what would be the best cam setup for the 2.3? 272/272 or the 280s? car will be a street/strip car i wanna build a setup for 10's.
 
Over the years I have seen a half a dozen people convert from 2.0/35r to 2.3/35r. done two of the conversions myself. Not one was sorry. makes about 30hp/70tq more. hard to argue with increasing engine size by 250cc. turbo spools 500 rpm faster. its a no brainer for me. 2.0/35r is a bit laggy. add the 2.3 and it comes alive.

their are a myraid of reasons shep uses a 2.0 in his drag car. they dont really apply to this question.

hks 272 cams are too small for 2.3 liter. the longer stroke needs more duration.

Maybe you guys who are recommending a 2.0 should ask shep what he runs in his evo streetcar.

I will save you the call. he runs a 2.3/35r
 
the calipers are from a evo8. i will swap them and paint them to match the car.:D
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after i removed the paint with aircraft stripper.
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ss brake lines
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I had some electrical problem with my GST.:mad: I was driving my car and I went over some train track and the car shut off complete.WTF I tried to restart it no luck. There was no power at all. I checked the fuses and the ignition fused was blown :confused:luckily I had a spare. Previous owner had left it in the car now I now why there was a spare ignition fuse. I made it home and I was trying to figure out why it happens. I took the radio out and I found a lot of exposed wires. :ohdamn:
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They wired the gauges with the power from the cigarette lighter. I'm thinking with the vibration from the train tracks it contacted with some thing and had blown the fuse. I started correcting the problem but I ended up like this
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LOL . I repaired all the wiring. Two day project and it started another.(paint dash black)
 

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adding the cool factor to my DSM LOL
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i want my car to look like this:hmm:
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I bought A1 head studs for my 6 bolt.
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Also I bought force performance exhaust stud with copper lock nuts.
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Can some one give me advice or some precaution about my build? What to look out for? What part works better together? Brand to stay away from?
I am thinking on buying the part::hmm:
Act 2900 with ceramic disk
Greddy timing belt
Bs delete
44mm tial wastegate
Aluminum rods
Wiseco HD1400 piston 8.3:1
Magnus shim
1000cc injectors
Spearco core intercooler
3” intercooler piping
Q45 Throttle body
Turbo I want but later on
Forced Performance GT3582HTA turbo
 

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