mid to low 9 sec. gst?

[whiteythepimp]

I know theres 100's of post like this out there... Even though this looks the same its a little different.. I'm trying to have a mid 9 second streetable track car built by april 4th.. So far I have a whole list of things going on and im at the end of my ropes sorta speak.. Just to give you a quick run down

Eagle crank *88mm*, Eagle Rods, Mahle pistons, ACL race bearings, web cams, skunk werks sprockets, Bc Valve train, hafe exhaust mani, sbr g60, ect.. I could keep going on but thats what my profiles for..

Now here are my questions..

1.. Whats the worst thats going to happen if I run no exhaust after the downpipe, or after the test pipe?

2.. Anything thing else I will deffinately need to achieve my goals?

3.. I've heard that running 120 is a good idea and bad idead.. I've heard the lead will blow out my o2 sensors which I can see.. But i've also heard about a filter for the fuel system to be able to run it.. Just curious anyone have any insight into this?..

4.. My chassis is approximately 3" - 4" off the ground.. The car is litterally as low as gravity will take it (purchased it like this).. KYB/H&R combo with a tweek i guess you can call it.. But will I need to change my suspension to run full slicks or should I still be able to get away with rolling the fenders?..

5.. And when I fully build everything and hit it with the timing gun, (keep in mind im running dsmlink).. On the first start up, do I have to worry about blowing my motor and such or is dsmlink being preprogrammed to my 850 injectors going to be able to sustain idle until I can finish my base tune?


Thanks in advance guys

 

[Dsm2nr89]

Good luck with that. Slap on some light wheels in the back and get some front slicks. Also to hit 9s spraying would help quite a bit.

 

[whiteythepimp]

Well right now i'm also in process of finding a sprayer that I like.. I have the snow performance water/methonal injection.. But I'm running about a 75-80% methanol mix.. I dont plan on running nitrous unless i get higher octane then 100.. And theres about 30 gas stations around selling it for 4.50 a gallon so.. Hense why I was asking about the 120 because i would much rather run 120 and a 125 wet shot...

 

[Dsm2nr89]

I don't know but 9's is asking a little bit too much from a fwd car.

 

[wishihadatalon]

So you want to build a mid-low 9 second car in less than a month? WTF

Thanks, I really needed that.

 

[1gDSM4g63]

Truthfully don't get you hopes up. Your car will be pretty far from the 9's. I'd say you would be lucky touching the low 11's.

 

[whiteythepimp]

Lol Well one of my buddies around here is running stock internals at 23 lbs with pretty much same bolt ons i have and a smaller turbo and he's running low 11's, high 10's with a mild tune i gave him (depends on how he hooks and the tires he runs).. Now im going balls to the wall sorta speak on my tune (could care less about blowing the motor.. I have money to spend).. And i'm going to be running about 40 lbs or so.. We'll see... The block will be completely bored and rebuilt in one day so I dont see how thats an issue.. So if you gunna try flaming.. Keep on watching.. Otherwise if you read any advice would be helpful as to the questions I asked... And its only 19 days... Not a month...

 

[outkastracing]

couple of things first i hope you make it just to prove everyone wrong im in the same boat but im shooting for next season first thing with that much boost i see you maxing out your injectors real fast i would go bigger! also you might think about a coilover that would give you stiff ride and be able to raise it for slicks! As far as blowing it up when you start as long as you prime the oil and the timing is dead on you should be good!!!! now depending on the rods and such that your running i wouldnt run it on the street much but the link should allow you to do what you need for injector size! good luck keep us posted!!!

 

[15 sec gs]

So you want to build a mid-low 9 second car in less than a month? WTF

Thanks, I really needed that.

he didnt ask to be laughed at that man obviously has a dream and i dont think i would like it very much if someone laughed at my dream so if you feel like laughing at someone keep it to your self or you are going to make a jack ass of yourself

 

[whiteythepimp]

Thats to that last two posters.. But I already have a load of pics from the strip down to the parts just to show how crappy it was at the start.. And how much of a sleeper it'll be in the end.. I'm just debating if running the open downpipe will lose back pressure and if not will it flame more than a regular exhaust because im afraid since flames and fuel lines dont mix

 

[15 sec gs]

kick it out the side just use a glass pack as a resonater or nothing at all then you dont have to worry about that and it will sound sweet as hell

 

[alex99gst]

I'm not going to flame you, but seriously, how in the world do you think it is achievable to be running 9's in less than a month?

 

[gsx rated98]

well remember being FWD, your 9sec car will be a few seconds slower on the street. No slicks on the street, and a lot of spinning.
Your also going to want to totally redo your fuel system. A 255hp will not keep up with the fuel demands. You will also need a built tranny W/ LSD, and I'm sure much more.

Ontop of all that, and not to bust your balls, and I dont want to hear im one hell of a driver. You need seat time. I will bet both testicals, both legs, and one arm that maybe .5% of anyone here can just into a fast car (use Sheps for example) and match the times in one day. You really will need to learn to drive your car.

Hope this helps.

 

[JeffGST]

Sump the fuel tank with dual -8 male bungs. Dual 044 pumps in Parallel. 1600cc injectors.

The key to traction on a FWD is the suspension. Your slammed to the ground approach won't work to well. You will need a "kidney failure" style rear setup in order to get you down the first 330 ft.

Do you know how fast a 9 second car really is? Have you been in a car that goes 0-60 in LESS than 3 seconds?? 0-100 MPH in less than 6 seconds?? You won't want to drive a 9 second car on the street. Trust me. I already am beginning to hate driving my mid 10 second car to do chores because of how rough it is on the driver.

 

[gsx rated98]

I already am beginning to hate driving my mid 10 second car to do chores because of how rough it is on the driver.

Jeff, as my 2 year old daughter would say "No whining"

 

[phatTSi]

Don't forget the 10 pt. cage that your going to need to run that fast. That in itself would take several weeks.

 

[bastarddsm]

If you have to ask questions like

1.. Whats the worst thats going to happen if I run no exhaust after the downpipe, or after the test pipe?

and this

5.. And when I fully build everything and hit it with the timing gun, (keep in mind im running dsmlink).. On the first start up, do I have to worry about blowing my motor and such or is dsmlink being preprogrammed to my 850 injectors going to be able to sustain idle until I can finish my base tune?

your probably not going to get out of the 14s especially in a FWD.

 

[4g64GST]

man I wish you luck, I have been building my 9 second GST for years and not there yet.

there are so many issues to work out with a fast FWD, its the little things that take forever.

be ready for a car that goes where it wants to rather than where you point it.

remember you can make all the power in the world but if you spin you go nowhere..

 

[slowgsr]

To do mid-low 9's you are going to need about 850-900whp as a 'street car'

You have no idea what this will require, your 850 injectors wont support anywhere near this HP figure.

If you start reading up now everyday until April 4th you may get the knowledge required to build a 9sec car with a trial and error method, and you will need minimum 20k in parts alone.

Do you wish to compete in SFWD or NHRA? The car will need to be safe and certified to go that fast. If your building the car for a class, study the class and learn the restrictions, unless you just want to do it for 'fun' which may the the case, SFWD has restrictions on exhaust and turbo size etc..

Goodluck

 

[wishihadatalon]

he didnt ask to be laughed at that man obviously has a dream and i dont think i would like it very much if someone laughed at my dream so if you feel like laughing at someone keep it to your self or you are going to make a jack ass of yourself

Dreams should be set to a level that can be reached. Building a 9 second car is not even remotely close to building an 11 second car. How you can compare the two is beyond me, but good luck and be sure to post up your time slips on April 5th.

Oh yeah and I said "LESS than a month"

 

[whiteythepimp]

Just to clear everything up.. The cage.. Already bent waiting to be welded... Weld time is only 2 days for perfection.. Second of all.. Yes I have gone alot faster then what you think considering I have a 1970 roadrunner doing 9's fully tubbed.. Im not looking for flaming.. Im not looking for the 'im better then you cause you dont know what your talking about' people responding..

I was asking how bad it would be considering right after the down pipe and cat is um the gas lines and tank under the car.. Just woundering if backfiring would be an issue.. (i've seen quiet a few dsm's flame inbetween shifts)...

Second of all as far as the tune.. Go use AEM or Hondata and start you car without a base tuned map already on there.. Bye Bye motor and all the parts you purchased.. I was asking because I havent used DSMLink yet.. Only read some info on it.. I can tune the shit outta anything I touch.. Its just a matter of knowing what the deal is before hand.. And since im here already posting might as well have asked instead of going to other forums to find out..

Third.. I already have the tires and im rolling the fenders.. If anyone gunna say things about the slicks.. I already ordered bigger injectors once i desided to go faster then low 11's.. Just havent gotten them yet so I havent posted them in my profile since I dont physically own them yet.. Not to much on day dreaming here..

As far as the suspension goes.. I purchased the car like that.. And at the moment I dont have 2 grand for a suspension.. Especially since i've spent just about 10k in motor parts and bolt ons for the rest of the car since december.. There's no wheel hop as is when the clutch was dropped.. Not even motor movement period.. I mean I'm sure its hurtin the axels something fierce but hey.. I got 2 more sets of brand new ones.. (passangers turbo and drivers non turbo..) And Im waiting for my set of dss which were on back order..

So on that note.. Anyone actually have any answers about the fuel, or exhaust yet?...

 

[JeffGST]

If you are worried about exhaust gases aimed at your fuel lines and fuel tank, then why not just build a side exit exhaust.

Have the side exhaust exit just out the driverside of the front bumper pointing outward. The best part is that the exhaust will weigh 40 lbs less. It's a proven method.

You also worry way too much about "base maps" and "bye bye motor." It take a lot to destroy a motor on the first pass. What tuning methods do you use? Nobody really tunes blindly like that. The 1st pass is always the lowest boost setting, with a ton of fuel and timing retarded out to ensure safety.

 

[turboglenn]

If you have to ask questions like

1.. Whats the worst thats going to happen if I run no exhaust after the downpipe, or after the test pipe?

and this

5.. And when I fully build everything and hit it with the timing gun, (keep in mind im running dsmlink).. On the first start up, do I have to worry about blowing my motor and such or is dsmlink being preprogrammed to my 850 injectors going to be able to sustain idle until I can finish my base tune?

your probably not going to get out of the 14s especially in a FWD.

So true, there's so much more that goes into running low ET's than "what parts do i buy" and "what will happen if "X" happens"

I've been chasing 11's for YEARS.. I've done hundreds of passes with a best dyno day of 468whp and without major tranny and suspension overhauls you'll never even put enough power to the ground to break out of the 12's on a FWD, let alone hitting 9's.... As for your friend that's "running 10's on a mild tune with FWD" tell him to hit up the fastest DSMtimes.org page and claim his crown as one of the fastest FWD eclipses. As far as i know there's only 17 people that have broke lower than 11 flat, or at least only 17 that have officially put their time on the site with a slip to back it up. Unless you're talking 1/8th mile, then 10's are nothing to brag about

I'm not trying to dog on you, but it's pretty apparent from some of the things you wrote that you haven't even begun to realize what's involved in making a car that fast, let alone what kind of time and expense is going to be involved. You better be rich or racing for a living if you think you'll get a FWD in the 9's in less than a year of actuall working on getting there struggling with broken parts and traction the entire way. Finding out what to get and buying the parts to make X horse power, which should = X time in the 1/4 mile is just the first .005% of what's actually involved in achieving your goal. Good luck and make sure to put a vid up and prove us all wrong if you do hit anything faster than a 12 second car in the next 3 years

If 2k for suspension is going to be too much right now, you're gonnahave a major wake up call coming soon. Mainly because i know my slicks won't fit on my car with the eibach springs that are only 2'' drop, because we've tried putting my slicks on my friends car with that exact spring. So you're definately not going to fit it running as low as you are unless you go with a small slick. But you're going to need that 2k or more just to get a differential that will hold that power and put it to both wheels, then you'll need at least a set of slip on coil overs and some adjustable shocks tot start putting any of that power to the ground. You'll also need a lot of carbon or fiberglass body panels ( or at least as much as you can replace) to get the weight down enough that the car isn't sitting like a boat anchor and spinning the tires the whole time.. Again you'll need BIG slicks (26x9.5x15 would be a nice tire) and you'll probably have to cut your unner fenders completely out for the equipment to run 9's... still sound affordable? If so i need to work where you work so i can hit LOW 11's before 2010

 

[whiteythepimp]

So heres for the updates...

I finally got my block back from the shop.. And boy does it look good .. Tonight after I leave work, i'm putting my head on, along with my timing belt components.. Things are really starting to look up for having the car ready on the April 3rd for the dyno..

Along side everything else the past couple of nights i've been hacking at the back of the dashboard and gutting the car.. I got my cage yesturday (8 point).. $150 bucks aint a bad investment.. The only dilema with that is i'm waiting for my buddy to custom up a harness bar for me because the only ones i was able to find were $200+...

Figured out the exhaust dilema also.. The same buddy is customing an angled turn down so if i do back fire the flame wont be at the fuel lines.. Stainless or not that's not something I was looking foward to.. But none the less.. Less weight now and that louder sound that drives everyone nuts..

I came up with an idea of how im gunna solve my suspension problem.. I'm shimming up all the springs high enough (hopefully) to fit a smaller DOT slick on it for the first spin at the track.. If not i'll be buying the suspension alot earlier then I thought..

The order for my carbon fiber hatch, doors and hood should be here middle of next week.. Just in enough time for fitment.. I also got my lexan rear windshield already, along with the two triangular lexan windows in the rear.. The only other thing i'm debating is lexan windows for my drive and passanger doors.. The only problem I can see is finding a place that'll do a good job with the lexan windows on the doors since I still want to have the convience of rolling up and down the windows in the summer since I have no A/C...

Hopefully someone with some experience or a moderator or wiseman can chime in on this.. Heres the rest of my problems.. Hopefully the flamers are done now...

1.. Since i'm going to have a cage in the car.. Would installing the lightened rear bumper support make a difference in an accident?? I used to have one on my honda, and the only thing it did was make a difference in weight.. (not that I had someone raer end me with any force) But the regular bumper kissing didnt make a difference in the 5 mph crash crap.. I mean im sticking with the stock front one because I have too much money invested in my motor so.. ANY INSIGHT INTO THIS PLEASE!!!..

2.. Obviously it's not anything like a nice wrinkle wall slick but will DOT slicks do me justice for now (as the first time at the track)?.. I'm just trying to work all the bugs out at the track so..

3.. I'm going to be running c16 for track days and 100 octane for daily driving.. Would it be more substantial for me to run nitrous at the track and methanol on the street or will methonal do fine for both?.. Only reason i'm venturing away from nitrous alittle is because that'll make the diffence between impounding my car and just some tickets.. (seeing how its going to be a d.d. also..) And I dont want to have to keep retuning for either.. I know people's warning about running methanol 24/7 and if the pump dies or blows, yada yada yada.. I'll obviously be carrying around a spare pump so i'm not that stupid..

4.. Will a complete cry o2 system be helpful for track purposes only.. I know daily driving its useless.. You cant just freeze your fuel block when your driving.. And constantly using it in conjuction w/ methanol/nitrous has a harsher effect.. The question being when i'm staged and I spray the intercooler, intake and fuel freeze.. Will it actually do anything towards my trap times?...

Thanks guys
Chris

 

[chicagoavenger]

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