mid to low 9 sec. gst?

[whiteythepimp]

^^^+2..

It's amazing just because there's no pictures people flame so hard..

The funny thing is when I tell people that i've spent about 13 thousand into my motor so far (not even bolt on's, just machine shop fees and internals), they ask if im stupid.. But when you're trying to do things and have dreams and aspirations.. I want to know one that doesnt cost..

I completely understand whats going into this project and how time consuming it is.. I paid just about 8k just to have the block built, balanced, shaved, o ringed.. The entire block.. Not just the head to the block.. And people wounder why.. But yet all the same people who wounder why, and flame you just because they dont understand..

The turn around on the machine shop's been nearly a month now and he still hasnt even gotten to porting out my head and my 5 angle valve job..

Not to mention the amount of weight reduction that i've been doing and pointless piece's of the car that have been removed just to be able to hope for some traction.. I mean i'm debating right now between HOOSIER or MT slicks, just to be able to have some traction.. Never mind the 5 gallon jug of VHT just to soak them in, because the amount they actually treat the track with really isnt anything..

But thank you to the people who dont flame and that may have given advice.. Or who were nice about it and said run 12's before 9's, and just dont take everyone as a joke..

Oh and btw.. If you're gunna flame.. Atleast try calling a bluff or something.. How u'r going to flame on someone for asking for help to find a driver for there camera so they can upload pictures to prove you wrong.. You sound like god damn Honda drivers..

 

[whiteythepimp]

Besides, just because you have a 9 second X car doesn't mean you're going to magically make a 1990 GST into a 9 second slicked out track monster with little to no knowledge of the chassis you're working with. If someone truly had a 9 second car, they'd understand and respect the time, effort, and knowledge it takes into building one.

## right.. I'm not 100% sure of the chassis.. And I can tell you tubbing out the road runner was a whole lot easier then tubbing out a small fwd 1g mitsu.. But all the principles are the same.. You're trying to keep the chassis as solid and ridged as possible, but at the same aspect there is no aftermarket supports.. Not saying you really need any in a fwd car.. But they'd be nice.. Not to mention that cars now aday's have less b.s. to the frame and more to safety.. Taking a 1970 and putting under supports and being able to take out half the structural integrity, and still be safe in an accident, is nothing like trying to do the same to a car that has crumple zones (considering this is going to also be a street car).. And none the less this is a little 4 cylinder being boosted.. not a 383 bored out w/ a blower.. So just to say I have no clue is a misconstrude comment.. To say I may not being completely informed about the task at hand is another.. But atleast I have experience in doing so..

 

[tkelly27]

Hrmm. Did anyone answer your first set of questions? There won't be any problems with not running an exhaust. If your link is setup for the injectors you are running it should fire right up.

Often times people make lots of power in their FWD cars, but they lack the tire and the suspension to go fast. It sounds like you've dealt with Honda's, so you know that the former is VERY important. As the car squats under acceleration you loose normal force over your front tires to have traction. I think this will be a big issue keeping you from your goals, and it's really something that has to be played with while taking passes with the car. Have you planned for this, and if so, what are you doing about it?

Also, have you been moving weight to the front of the car? I know often people will put their fuel cell in the engine bay to put more weight over the front tires.

Your engine has been setup to take the abuse, has your transmission? I read you pulled it out to put a LSD in there, what type? Have you done the common upgrades to make sure it won't break at those power levels? It may have been worth the while to change gears as well.

Obviously 9's can be had in a FWD, and they can also be had with a 16g! However, it normally takes a lot longer than a month. Not saying you can't, but what areas will you try to change if you don't get 9's (hint, you don't need more power : D).

 

[GofaST4life]

i still wanna see pics of the car though, theres nutting wrong with that, and if you think im flaming you, then you need to calm down...

Pics?

 

[twicks69]

^^^+2..

It's amazing just because there's no pictures people flame so hard..

The funny thing is when I tell people that i've spent about 13 thousand into my motor so far (not even bolt on's, just machine shop fees and internals), they ask if im stupid.. But when you're trying to do things and have dreams and aspirations.. I want to know one that doesnt cost..

I completely understand whats going into this project and how time consuming it is.. I paid just about 8k just to have the block built, balanced, shaved, o ringed.. The entire block.. Not just the head to the block.. And people wounder why.. But yet all the same people who wounder why, and flame you just because they dont understand..

The turn around on the machine shop's been nearly a month now and he still hasnt even gotten to porting out my head and my 5 angle valve job..

Not to mention the amount of weight reduction that i've been doing and pointless piece's of the car that have been removed just to be able to hope for some traction.. I mean i'm debating right now between HOOSIER or MT slicks, just to be able to have some traction.. Never mind the 5 gallon jug of VHT just to soak them in, because the amount they actually treat the track with really isnt anything..

But thank you to the people who dont flame and that may have given advice.. Or who were nice about it and said run 12's before 9's, and just dont take everyone as a joke..

Oh and btw.. If you're gunna flame.. Atleast try calling a bluff or something.. How u'r going to flame on someone for asking for help to find a driver for there camera so they can upload pictures to prove you wrong.. You sound like god damn Honda drivers..

Whitey -- spending money is part of the game to go fast. Anyone can spend it; it still comes down to RESULTS. So far, not many results are apparent.

Instead of just gutting the crap out of your car and putting slicks on, you should really start looking into suspension design.

With your Methanol injection question, I would reccomend starting with one nozzle after the intercooler/before the throttle body if your intercooler has a high enough efficiency and capacity to properly cool itself with your setup. If you are intending on running pump gas only, and want a meth injection setup to let you run higher boost levels on 93 octane, then there are SEVERAL kits and threads out there explaining how to install a meth setup to run either a 50/50 mix up to running straight methanol. If you are running an inefficient intercooler or a "stock" size intercooler, then it would be beneficial to have a meth setup earlier in the cooling tract to increase efficiency. Also, how are you intending on controlling and tuning your setup with high boost/C16 and nitrous along with your meth injection?

Also, instead of saying you want "balls to the wall" tunes on 91, 93, 100 and C16; you should start with making conservative tunes on the fuels that you will be using most. You might also want to look at running a full stand-alone engine management system to make it easier to have multiple tunes and have more control over such things as knock control, boost compensation, ignition timing vs. load, nitrous control, 2-steps with/without anti-lag, etc. Getting the engine and setup running properly is much more important than making big numbers and blowing your stuff up. It just ends up with alot of money wasted.


Finally, most of the questions you have so far posted, could have easily been put into the Newbie section instead.

Bench racing shouldn't be posted in an area where cold-hard-facts go.

 

[turboglenn]

I completely understand whats going into this project and how time consuming it is.. I paid just about 8k just to have the block built, balanced, shaved, o ringed.. The entire block.. Not just the head to the block.. And people wounder why.. But yet all the same people who wounder why, and flame you just because they dont understand..

What else would you o-ring and for what purpose? The head is the only logical thing i can think of to even need it.


twicks69 raises some good point as well.

 

[whiteythepimp]

he does bring up good points... So far the suspension is K-Sport.. The whole car was at the shop getting an overhaul if you couldnt tell.. The original suspension was kyb's w/ h&r's... But if all else fail's I have a guy over here that fabs stuff up for the supra's around the area.. Mainly with their suspensions and rears... But thats only last resort

The reason for the rest of the block to get o-ringed is just more or less a precaution.. I plan on pushing over 50lbs, when my whole set up is done (obviously on a different turbo).. Hopefully wont blow the motor apart.. But the better the seals on

The whole reason for the 'balls to the wall' tunes is because im just doing the base line and WOT on the street to save me some money at the tuning shop.. And personally the shop guarantee's they wont blow you motor on the dyno, and if they do they replace it so screw it.. It's better then me learning through trial and error, plus they'll teach me how to use the link for on the go changes if need be.. And even if i blow the motor at the track or on the street i'll build another within the 2 months its probably going to take for this one.. (the machine shop underestimated the down time they'd have the motor for).. Money isnt anything when it comes to play toys.. Like I said the goal was a 9 second street driven car.. plane and simple..

The nitrous is only going to be run on c16 due to the fact that methonal has little gains compared to juice.. So the nitrous will only be run on race fuel.. Methonal on the pump gas and 110 is so this way I can run higher boost levels on them like you stated..

 

[dsm-onster]

I am going to sum up the BEST advice by quoting the simplest but most potent sentence in this entire thread:

Instead of just gutting the crap out of your car and putting slicks on, you should really start looking into suspension design.

Get traction. There is so very much work to be done to a DSM fwd suspension that will net so much better 60ft times. This time drastically influences what your horsepower-to-weight nets as an ET. Don't look at power. Look at how to keep it pushing your forward.

Weight reduction, andslamming your car does a little. But so much more worthy of pages of info needs to be looked at and tweeked.

Kiggly makes a living with his 9 second FWD dsm. You HAVE to go learn it yourself to do it. NO ONE is going to help you; because it's like asking Shep for his secrets tohis 7 second runs. 10s of thousands of dollars isn't going to help you, play toy or not.

 

[twicks69]

Any updates on the progress?

Smoke and mirrors or hopes and dreams?

Or is it done?

 

[outkastracing]

still no pics ill buy you a camera i want pics!!!! 9 sec gst man did you know im going 7s on a 16g! come on!

 

[haioku-rocket]

To do mid-low 9's you are going to need about 850-900whp as a 'street car'

You have no idea what this will require, your 850 injectors wont support anywhere near this HP figure.

If you start reading up now everyday until April 4th you may get the knowledge required to build a 9sec car with a trial and error method, and you will need minimum 20k in parts alone.

Do you wish to compete in SFWD or NHRA? The car will need to be safe and certified to go that fast. If your building the car for a class, study the class and learn the restrictions, unless you just want to do it for 'fun' which may the the case, SFWD has restrictions on exhaust and turbo size etc..

Goodluck

Started reading this post and finally someone who has tried to bring this guy down to reality. Man I totally agree with you slowgsr.

I got as far as SBRG60, 40 psi, 850CC injectors and just started laughing...


Whitey you need to learn to crawl before you can run. You just don't have any idea how to run 9s or anything else for that matter. I really could go on and on. Thats very obvious. Just jump in and set some realistic goals for yourself and take some advice from people instead of making yourself look...well stupid.


Honestly shoot for 11s. Thats realistic.