MBC on BOV line - relation to fuel cut?

[j_eclipse96]

Alright, I put a nipple on my j-pipe, and boost seems ALOT smoother, but I am still getting cut at 16 lbs. I still need to run another thurough boost leak test per oldman's advice, but that will need to wait until this weekend at least. Mid-terms suck

I managed to log a run as well, and I'm hitting fuel cut at 28 lbs/min at 16 psi. Any input on this, or is this meaningless until I do another BLT?

Also, does anyone know at what lbs/min airflow a 2g MAF triggers fuel cut? I searched but found nothing.

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[1glaserturbo]

Sounds to me like you may be running stupid rich (Boost leak) causing your car to studder and buck like you said. I'm with everyone else here, do a true boost leak test and get back to us with the results! You'd be surprised how easily 14 year old injector seals leak

 

[j_eclipse96]

Also forgot to add in my earlier posts, my car has these miscellaneous issues, which I believed to be unrelated:

I have a CEL for the intake air temperature circuit, and it is due to a broken wire going to the MAF harness.

I have a 1g throttle body, and has the 1g TPS, which is incorrect for 2gs I believe, but I think this only affects idle, correct?

 

[spooln4fun]

I am curious as to that answer as well. i have a 1g tps on my 2g as well

 

[j_eclipse96]

Alright, this is seeming like less and less like hitting fuel cut, and more like just a misfire or hiccup.

I have my boost leaks eliminated; it takes a couple minutes to bleed down to zero, even without my finger on the bleed hole of my MBC. I also notice it is intermittent now; sometimes if I got into boost, it will miss, sometimes it won't. It will always be between 5 and 6k rpms.

I am now confident it's not fuel cut, as it does not feel drastic as it has been described to me. It feels alot more like a hiccup or a bucking; almost like a sudden, severe ignition hiccup. My teeth are definately not embedded in the steering wheel

Any ideas guys?

 

[zippyshoe]

If you haven't replaced your spark plugs and/or plug wires recently, it wouldn't hurt to replace these in case the problem you are experiencing is ignition-related. You had mentioned that you have an intake air temperature circuit fault. When the ECU detects this fault condition, it will fall-back to assuming an intake air temperature of 25*C (77*F) and ignore the temperature sensor. This could affect the accuracy of the ECU airflow metering a bit, but I wouldn't expect this fault to cause the symtpoms you are describing.

 

[j_eclipse96]

Alright, until I get money for some new plug wires, would it be a bad idea to turn up the boost to ~18psi to see if I hit real fuel cut? Just so I know its not fuel cut I'm hitting now.

 

[j_eclipse96]

Alright, I just realized my air temp sensor in my MAF is logging a constant temp of -40 degrees.. Could this make a difference in the running of the car?