The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

mbc confusion

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

funkbuster

15+ Year Contributor
103
0
Sep 4, 2005
King, North Carolina
Hello. I got me a MBC for my 93 talon. I have read old threads on hooking it up for about 2 hours. I am getting very confused. I have seen about 10 different ways to hook it up. I saw that the best way is to go from boost source to WG like this pic says. http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=50431519&postcount=57
Ok. my question is if I run it from the WG to the jpipe, there are 3 lines T'ed together on the jpipe thing. Do I leave them T'ed together and just run the MBC off the line that runs down to the WGA? Also, I have read that I have to unplug some electrical plugs and I need to block off some vacum ports. Where are these at? I am so confused about all this mess.
Thanks for help in Advance
Chase
 
Your picture is correct.

Do nothing to the BOV line......BOV to intake mani.

For the MBC........remove the 3 lines "T"ed together (1 to "J" pipe, 1 to WG, 1 to boost control solenoid) from the "J" pipe, follow one of the lines to the boost control solenoid and cap it off with vacuum caps. Now hook up the MBC as shown in your picture............."J" pipe to MBC, MBC to waste-gate.

As far as the boost control solenoid goes..........I left mine plugged in and haven't had any issues, I'm not sure how it works for a 1G.
 
so let me get this straight... The side one goes to the j-pipe and the one going straight down with the rest of the mbc goes to the actuator?
 

No, that link shows the wrong way to do it; Cutting the BOV line is one of the worst places to tap for a boost controller. It in effect creates a boost leak in the BOV vacuum line and can adversely affect when the BOV opens or closes. The method Formontoya describes is the correct way to hook up a manual boost controller.

On a 2g, unplugging the stock BCS will usually throw a trouble code; the ECU likes to see its signal regardless if it's actually doing anything or not. On a 1g, I've been told that you can disconnect it with no problems.
 
so let me get this straight... The side one goes to the j-pipe and the one going straight down with the rest of the mbc goes to the actuator?

Which MBC do you have? On most, the nipple opposite the adjustment dial/knob is used for a pressure signal. The one on the side usually goes to the Wastegate Actuator. I've seen some that are opposite, though, so it's important to know which style you're using. The TurboXS High Performance MBC, for example, has an arrow punched into the MBC housing to indicate the direction of pressure flow, and on mine, it flows from what I would call the "side" nipple, but that's just a matter of perspective, I guess.
 
ok. I hooked it up to the pipe that the stock boost contoller was hooked to, I assume the lower IC pipe, and the other hose to the WGA. I ran it, and overboost like mad. I have pics of the hookup to see if I did it right.

1st pic is boost controller hooked up, the black hose that looks like it connects to the orange/red hose doesnt connect to it, it is just laying there.

2nd pic is where the other stock boost controller hose went just under the air filter

3rd pic is a T connection that came with my MBC that I didnt hook up and dont know what exactly it is for. It says the arrow faces towards the WGA on the bottom of it. IF you blow in the top, it blows thru and out the side the arrow is facing. If you blow thru the side behind the arrow, it doesnt come out anywhere.

if you can help me, It would be much appreciated.
 
As MrBoxx stated..............on the biggest majority of MBCs the source (compressor, "J" pipe, or lower IC, where ever the nipple is located on your setup) is to the nipple opposite the knob on the MBC, the side nipple on the MBC goes to the waste-gate.

Basically hook it up as shown in the link I gave in post #7.
 
Ok you have a Bleeder style MBC ###### found on ebay. This works like a controlled boost leak, they are not very good. You should look online and pick up a ball and spring type MBC and then put it in like that. But that MBC should be taken out
 
well, I dont really care how good it is, Im not going to be throwing a bunch of boost into it. I am just wanting it to turn down my boost a little bit, it gets a little higher than I like on cold days, i guess cause my exhaust. How would I hook it up so it will work? I assume that the WGA goes to the side the arrow faces on the T-connection, but where does everything else go?
 
well, im not really worried about how good the controller is, as long as it works, I dont plan on running any high boost, or highly or mildly modified car, I just want to have control of my boost. How would I hook it up so it would work, I assume that the WGA goes to the T-connectino on the side the arrow faces, but where do the other sides and the controller itself connect to?
 
The problem is, that boost controller is known to totally suck on our cars. The little box unit with three nipples is designed to go in between a pressure signal line (think BOV line ;), and then think of what we said about tapping that line :notgood: ). Supposedly, that little tee box is what actually does the "boost controlling" for that type of MBC, but since there's no way to reliably use that part, the MBC won't work properly.

Do yourself a HUGE favor and get a reputable ball-and-spring MBC, such as a TurboXS High-Performance MBC, a JoeP, or a Hallman. These have been used for years by many DSM'ers, properly tapped to a direct pressure source (think compressor housing or IC pipe nipple), without serious problems. My TurboXS HP has served me faithfully for over four years, with rock-solid boost at whatever I set it at.

You can keep trying to make that knock-off Turbosmart MBC work if you really want to; I'm sure some DSM'ers have found a way to make it work. But it would be so much easier and safer to get something tried and true. My .02.

Edit: Also, just looked at your pic. I think the lines might be backwards on your MBC. Try the pressure source line on the bottom nipple and the WGA line on the top nipple.
 
yeh, I switched the lines around, but I still get the same problem. I got the MBC for christmas, I dont think it can be returned, so I was wanting to get it working.
 
Sell it to someone with a different kind of turbo car, e.g. VW, Audi, Mazda, Subaru, etc. They supposedly have better luck with them, according to my friends with VW's.
 
From the picture, looks like the adjustment knob is turned all the way out which means maximum boost because you have a bleeder type MBC. I do however believe that you have it hooked up correctly in the picture also because it's a bleeder type MBC. Lastly, I have seen many thread just like this one with the same mbc, I personal wouldn't use it even if it was free.......mbc is one of the cheapest but most important component in a turbo system.
 
http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=2366&

This is the same as my boost controller. It is an ebay knock off, but it looks just like this only both inlet and outlet are on same side of boost controller. I found it on ebay, and it calls it a Gated Boost Controller or GBCV like this one is called. Is this still a bleeder type or is it something different?

Edit: here is link to ebay one I got, from people I got it from.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GATE...1QQihZ013QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 
Even the Turbo Smart unit is a bleeder/solenoid mbc, not to mention just because the ebay knock off looks the same as the real unit doesn't mean the internal designs are the same. You still have not answered my question, is the adjustment knob all the way in or out?
 
What I'm trying to tell you is to stay far away from that style of boost controller, as MANY DSM'ers have had issues with that exact MBC or the knock-off versions of it. The whole "gated" thing doesn't work on our cars the way the MBC needs to be connected.

Hallman, JoeP, TurboXS, or a similar MBC that's been tested and is reputable on DSM's are the only options for you if you want reliable boost. As oldman said, don't cheap out on important parts whose failure could cause damage to your car.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top