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2G M&W pro 12 wiring

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aguiga

10+ Year Contributor
130
3
Dec 2, 2009
Texas
So i recently got a m&w pro 12 ignition box and I'm trying to wire it up. I think I figured out where all the connections go according to the instructions they give. Where I've stumbled upon is there is a twin spark option and a power level option to hook up. Does anyone with experience with this, have any input if I should enable this or just leave them unhooked.

DSMs only have three wires to the plug. One for coil #1, one for coil #2, and the last is ground. The box has two grounds one for each coil. Do you tie both grounds together when making the 3 prong plug or just use one of the box grounds for both coils?

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why don't you just take the stock wires off the coils. they're held on by a nut, its just hidden by the little plastic covers. then hook up an individual ground wire each coil.

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So i recently got a m&w pro 12 ignition box and I'm trying to wire it up. I think I figured out where all the connections go according to the instructions they give. Where I've stumbled upon is there is a twin spark option and a power level option to hook up. Does anyone with experience with this, have any input if I should enable this or just leave them unhooked.

DSMs only have three wires to the plug. One for coil #1, one for coil #2, and the last is ground. The box has two grounds one for each coil. Do you tie both grounds together when making the 3 prong plug or just use one of the box grounds for both coils?

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I have the M&W pro-12 with a Spark Tech COP kit on my 1g. In my case, I have the power level pin (#13) blocked off and the two spark (#3) is jumped to pin #10. Also #5, #9, #11 are blocked off.
As for the two grounds for coils, I think you should wire them from the box to each coil individually.
I don't know what coil and ECU you run, so this may not work for you but I hope at least this would give you some idea.
 
I have the M&W pro-12 with a Spark Tech COP kit on my 1g. In my case, I have the power level pin (#13) blocked off and the two spark (#3) is jumped to pin #10. Also #5, #9, #11 are blocked off.
As for the two grounds for coils, I think you should wire them from the box to each coil individually.
I don't know what coil and ECU you run, so this may not work for you but I hope at least this would give you some idea.

im running ecmlink and the stock 2g coils. i have pin 9 hooked to to pin 10 to trigger rising edge since im still using the factory power transistor. and i left pin 13 blocked off. so ur actually using pin 3 for two spark? any benefits to that? im coming from a ARC-2 model and on that box it actually allows to pick single or dual strike which dual strike turns off around 3k rpm. does it do the same thing on the M&w system?
 
im running ecmlink and the stock 2g coils. i have pin 9 hooked to to pin 10 to trigger rising edge since im still using the factory power transistor. and i left pin 13 blocked off. so ur actually using pin 3 for two spark? any benefits to that? im coming from a ARC-2 model and on that box it actually allows to pick single or dual strike which dual strike turns off around 3k rpm. does it do the same thing on the M&w system?
I am running no PTU with falling edge as it's the default. When I installed it, I didn't change any ignition setting on ECU from the setting for the stock coil pack with PTU.
And as for the multi spark, as much as I know, that's always ON. So you would be able to have more stable idle.
I upload the manual that came with Spark Tech kit, maybe it would give you some idea.
In the manual #6 says "Blue 20 gauge wire" but mine didn't come with the blue wire. The pin 3 was already connected to pin #10 on the harness from Spark Tech, instead.

Hope you find this helpful.
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I am running no PTU with falling edge as it's the default. When I installed it, I didn't change any ignition setting on ECU from the setting for the stock coil pack with PTU.
And as for the multi spark, as much as I know, that's always ON. So you would be able to have more stable idle.
I upload the manual that came with Spark Tech kit, maybe it would give you some idea.
In the manual #6 says "Blue 20 gauge wire" but mine didn't come with the blue wire. The pin 3 was already connected to pin #10 on the harness from Spark Tech, instead.

Hope you find this helpful.
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I dont have a aftermarket tachometer. Are u using the factory tach.? If u connect the ts2ch wire from the box to the white wire tach wire on the power transistor will it work like factory
 
I dont have a aftermarket tachometer. Are u using the factory tach.?
When I installed it I was running it with the factory tachometer and I hadn't had any issues.

If u connect the ts2ch wire from the box to the white wire tach wire on the power transistor will it work like factory
In my case, yes it did work. I just connected the tach signal from the Pro-12 box to the white wire that is in the coil pack connector since mine is '90. Yours should be in the PTU connector.
 
So on the instructions it says to hook them straight to the ecu the trigger wires from the cdi. So do i just splice them in or cut the selected wire from the ecu off and connect the cdi trigger wires to the ecu side. Im confused on that .and ur using the 90s 4 plug coil right ? Mine being a 2g just has three wires and the tach signal is on the ptu
 
Remove the PTU and try to wire as below. And see if it would work.

Pro-12 Pin #1/#2 to Battery + (15A Fuse)
Pro-12 Pin #3 to Pro-12 Pin #10
Pro-12 Pin #4 to White Wire on PTU connector (2G ECU Pin #58)
Pro-12 Pin #5 Blocked
Pro-12 Pin #6 to Coil A +
Pro-12 Pin #7/#8 to Battery -
Pro-12 Pin #9 Blocked
Pro-12 Pin #10 to Pro-12 Pin #3
Pro-12 Pin #11 Blocked
Pro-12 Pin #12 to Coil B +
Pro-12 Pin #13 Blocked
Pro-12 Pin #14 to Brown/Red Wire on PTU connector (2G ECU Pin #23)
Pro-12 Pin #15 to Black/Blue Wire on PTU connector (2G ECU Pin #10)
Pro-12 Pin #16 to Red Wire on Coil Pack 3 pin connector or a Switched 12V
Pro-12 Pin #17 to Coil A -
Pro-12 Pin #18 to Coil B -
 
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Remove the PTU and try to wire as below. And see if it would work.

Pro-12 Pin #1/#2 to Battery + (15A Fuse)
Pro-12 Pin #3 to Pro-12 Pin #10
Pro-12 Pin #4 to White Wire on PTU connector (2G ECU Pin #58)
Pro-12 Pin #5 Blocked
Pro-12 Pin #6 to Coil A +
Pro-12 Pin #7/#8 to Battery -
Pro-12 Pin #9 Blocked
Pro-12 Pin #10 to Pro-12 Pin #3
Pro-12 Pin #11 Blocked
Pro-12 Pin #12 to Coil B +
Pro-12 Pin #13 Blocked
Pro-12 Pin #14 to Brown/Red Wire on PTU connector (2G ECU Pin #23)
Pro-12 Pin #15 to Black/Blue Wire on PTU connector (2G ECU Pin #10)
Pro-12 Pin #16 to Red Wire on Coil Pack 3 pin connector or a Switched 12V
Pro-12 Pin #17 to Coil A -
Pro-12 Pin #18 to Coil B -

Man thank u so much man. Finally got it up and running. Without the diagram from sparkteck and ur help i couldnt have done it..i was trying to wire it with the PTU in place and i kept running into dead ends. Removed it out of the equation and hook the multi spark to pin 10 . And also the tachometer works too.
 
Man thank u so much man. Finally got it up and running. Without the diagram from sparkteck and ur help i couldnt have done it..i was trying to wire it with the PTU in place and i kept running into dead ends. Removed it out of the equation and hook the multi spark to pin 10 . And also the tachometer works too.
Glad to hear that you made it and also your tachometer works. Thanks for reporting back :thumb:
 
Remove the PTU and try to wire as below. And see if it would work.

Pro-12 Pin #1/#2 to Battery + (15A Fuse)
Pro-12 Pin #3 to Pro-12 Pin #10
Pro-12 Pin #4 to White Wire on PTU connector (2G ECU Pin #58)
Pro-12 Pin #5 Blocked
Pro-12 Pin #6 to Coil A +
Pro-12 Pin #7/#8 to Battery -
Pro-12 Pin #9 Blocked
Pro-12 Pin #10 to Pro-12 Pin #3
Pro-12 Pin #11 Blocked
Pro-12 Pin #12 to Coil B +
Pro-12 Pin #13 Blocked
Pro-12 Pin #14 to Brown/Red Wire on PTU connector (2G ECU Pin #23)
Pro-12 Pin #15 to Black/Blue Wire on PTU connector (2G ECU Pin #10)
Pro-12 Pin #16 to Red Wire on Coil Pack 3 pin connector or a Switched 12V
Pro-12 Pin #17 to Coil A -
Pro-12 Pin #18 to Coil B -

Any idea how this would need to be wired up with 300M coils???
 
Any idea how this would need to be wired up with 300M coils???
Do you mean 300M coils with a M&W Pro12 box? If so, should try as below. (Without PTU)

Pro-12 Pin #1/#2 to Battery + (15A Fuse)
Pro-12 Pin #3 to Pro-12 Pin #10
Pro-12 Pin #4 to White Wire on PTU connector (2G ECU Pin #58)
Pro-12 Pin #5 Blocked
Pro-12 Pin #6 to Coil 1/4 +
Pro-12 Pin #7/#8 to Battery -
Pro-12 Pin #9 Blocked
Pro-12 Pin #10 to Pro-12 Pin #3
Pro-12 Pin #11 Blocked
Pro-12 Pin #12 to Coil 2/3 +
Pro-12 Pin #13 Blocked
Pro-12 Pin #14 to Brown/Red Wire on PTU connector (2G ECU Pin #23)
Pro-12 Pin #15 to Black/Blue Wire on PTU connector (2G ECU Pin #10)
Pro-12 Pin #16 to Red Wire on Coil Pack 3 pin connector or a Switched 12V
Pro-12 Pin #17 to Coil 1/4 -
Pro-12 Pin #18 to Coil 2/3 -
 
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Do you mean 300M coils with a M&W Pro12 box? If so, should try as below. (Without PTU)

Pro-12 Pin #1/#2 to Battery + (15A Fuse)
Pro-12 Pin #3 to Pro-12 Pin #10
Pro-12 Pin #4 to White Wire on PTU connector (2G ECU Pin #58)
Pro-12 Pin #5 Blocked
Pro-12 Pin #6 to Coil 1/4 +
Pro-12 Pin #7/#8 to Battery -
Pro-12 Pin #9 Blocked
Pro-12 Pin #10 to Pro-12 Pin #3
Pro-12 Pin #11 Blocked
Pro-12 Pin #12 to Coil 2/3 +
Pro-12 Pin #13 Blocked
Pro-12 Pin #14 to Brown/Red Wire on PTU connector (2G ECU Pin #23)
Pro-12 Pin #15 to Black/Blue Wire on PTU connector (2G ECU Pin #10)
Pro-12 Pin #16 to Red Wire on Coil Pack 3 pin connector or a Switched 12V
Pro-12 Pin #17 to Coil 1/4 -
Pro-12 Pin #18 to Coil 2/3 -
I'm trying to tackle this, this very minute. But just a confirmation but I have Pin 9 going to Pin 10. But you're saying to go from Pin 3 to Pin 10 instead? I just want to be 100% sure that's correct. I'm not sure what this does. All I know is that I'm running Ecmlink and not sure what these do. Thanks!
 
I'm trying to tackle this, this very minute. But just a confirmation but I have Pin 9 going to Pin 10. But you're saying to go from Pin 3 to Pin 10 instead? I just want to be 100% sure that's correct. I'm not sure what this does. All I know is that I'm running Ecmlink and not sure what these do. Thanks!
It seems like you have set the trigger as rising edge. Pin 3 to Pin 10 would make it as falling edge.
 
It seems like you have set the trigger as rising edge. Pin 3 to Pin 10 would make it as falling edge.
I'm not familiar with what either of those do. It was running with it connected with pin 9 to 10. But I keep having misfires on different cylinders, replaced two coils for 3&4, now cylinder 1 is missing. So was just hoping to delete all this ptu crap.

Not sure what to do with the left over wiring at the ptu plug though.
 
I'm not familiar with what either of those do. It was running with it connected with pin 9 to 10. But I keep having misfires on different cylinders, replaced two coils for 3&4, now cylinder 1 is missing. So was just hoping to delete all this ptu crap.

Not sure what to do with the left over wiring at the ptu plug though.
Should try to remove the PTU and wire as falling edge as mentioned above.
 
Hopefully someone still sees this. Is coil 1/4, coil A, and coil 2/3 coil B?
 
I am running a 300m coil setup with M&W pro 12cdi. I had a couple of questions as I’m having miss fires.

I have an AEM ems4, Kiggley 12 tooth setup 300 cop with M&W Pro 12.

The car runs but anytime I give it any rpm or accelerate it seems to miss. I put a timing light to all 4 coils to insure it’s firing.

I have the PTU removed.
I followed the wiring except there is a couple questions. I don’t have pin 4 for the tach ran. The AEM all ready gets the rpm so I didn’t think I needed to run this.

If I still need tach wire for the M&W where do I run that wire to?

Also I read that pin 3 needs to be looped to pin 10. I haven’t done this. Is this something that needed to be done. Pin 3 from what I read is if you want twin spark.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
I assume you are the person who posted in DSMTuners facebook group. I'm the one who recommended to play with Accel vs Fuel in AEMTuner. Did you try that? Or you are 100% positive that the cause is misfire or ignition related? It's a universal standalone ECU, so it wouldn't work like PnP car dedicated standalone if you don't set some parameters for your specific setup.
The reason why I asked you to play with the parameters in Accel tab in AEMTuner, because if the Accel parameters are not set properly, each time when you move the throttle, the engine would be bogging/jerking and this makes the car undrivable. I could still be wrong but according to what you described, that came up to my mind first and I still feel the issue may be in the software side since the engine fires up. Can you rev up smoothly in neutral? Can you upload a video?
The AEM all ready gets the rpm so I didn’t think I needed to run this.
If I still need tach wire for the M&W where do I run that wire to?
You don't probably need it unless your tachometer requires it.
 
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So I pulled the plugs. It has 3 plugs that have carbon build up but has white tip. Cyl number 2 completely carbon up. I have bought a new coil to see if that fixes the issue with cy 2.

I have accel fuel completely off. I have helped tune my friends mr2 and accel fuel was one of the last things we did to smooth out the tune. It was at least driveable without accel fuel. This isn’t driveable at all.

I’ll post a picture of the plugs. The car does rev but isn’t as smooth as it should be. It is better than it is under load though.
 
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