low boost, loud spool, no boost leaks, wtf!

[w1kk3d]

(2g TSi AWD A/T - 16g, ported, 34mm wg, all hard IC piping, intake, type-s vented(yea yea), o2 dump, 2.5" dp to full 3" apexi n1, mbc, safc)

Ok, I'm at a loss already Here's what is happening:

- Wants to die when first starting up in the morning, unless I raise the LowThrottle 1k setting to +10. I can lower it back to 0 when its been running for a minute or 2.

- Doesn't really want to go when boosting, loud spoolup, only hits a max of 10psi. It runs just fine when it's in vac.

- Did a boost leak test with a huge compressor, the boost gauge doesn't even move, and I can't hear *anything* leaking, not even from the mbc bleeder hole. No air coming out of the exhaust either. I know the tester works, because it found a TB leak on my brothers car just minutes afterward.

- The wastegate arm did not move on my car when doing leak test, opened on my brothers just fine. I can pull it open with my hand, but it takes alot of strength.

- Did a compression test, 190-185-180-185

- New spark plugs gapped at .28, then tried .32.

[misc.]

- 1 manifold stud snapped off in head, top right. Been like that for months.

- o2/dp gasket probably shot, i can feel exhaust putt-putt out of it while idling, but that also has been like that for quite a while.

- Keep getting P1500 code for Alternator Terminal Circuit... but I think it's because the ghetto rigged o2 dump tube (exhaust flex pipe clamped on for extension) is very close to alternator, and almost melted the wiring until i gobbed some copper rtv on it and it's held up fine. It charges fine, never dims, etc.


[Things left to look at]

- pressurize wg nipple directly to see if wg arm opens.
- check ecu?
- ???

ANY suggestions?

 

[GeneralChaos]

Try doing the boost leak test from the lower IC pipe, that way if it holds boost fine from there you have a better idea of the problem area (turbo)

Might want to see if you have leaks in other parts of the exhaust like the manifold, but if you did im sure youd hear it

 

[tonygst]

we do know that the reason why your car almost dies at start is cause of venting right? Or are we correctly venting in that aspect.

Now when your at WOT your car doesn't move fast or what?

Now i know you say yah yah to the venting but i know when my buddy tried to vent his BOV he couldn't go over 40 mph and the car would nearly die, are you experiencing any of that at all?

 

[GeneralChaos]

hmm I didnt even notice that untill I looked at his gallery.

If your still venting it try reconnecting that tube, because when you think about it, your basically making the biggest leak ever.

That tube is there for a reason, the computer is expecting that air to come back around into the intake, and when it doesnt, it runs like arse.

So....untill you get a blow through id suggest putting that tube back on, if it fixes it great, if not head on back in here

 

[w1kk3d]

It's always been vented, and has idled flawlessly for over a year like that. Even when starting up fine in below 0 weather.
I don't have the tube anymore either I always have been meaning to put one back on, I'll see if I can find one locally.
I highly doubt it's the problem though since it never was before.

I'll try the leak test from the other areas (TB / smic) today/this weekend.
wheeee

 

[oldman]

I highly doubt it's the problem though since it never was before.

You're assuming there's only one cause to your problem when there could be more than one. This is what I would do.

1. Recirculate.

2. Bypass the MBC and run the pressure source directly to the actuator and report back.

3. Repeat the test with the oil cap open and see if you hear any hissing or feel air rushing out.

4. Check the turbo for any signs of trouble, shaft play...etc.

I highly doubt the actuator is the problem or you would be over boosting instead, but it doesn't hurt to double check. Post back the results and we will help you figure out what next. Good luck.

 

[w1kk3d]

You're assuming there's only one cause to your problem when there could be more than one. This is what I would do.

1. Recirculate.

2. Bypass the MBC and run the pressure source directly to the actuator and report back.

3. Repeat the test with the oil cap open and see if you hear any hissing or feel air rushing out.

4. Check the turbo for any signs of trouble, shaft play...etc.

I highly doubt the actuator is the problem or you would be over boosting instead, but it doesn't hurt to double check. Post back the results and we will help you figure out what next. Good luck.

#1-3 i'm going to try.
#4 I forgot to mention that there is zero shaft play, either side/side or in/out.

If the wastegate was stuck open/slightly open, there would be zero to minimal boost.
I'll be back later

 

[w1kk3d]

Welp, while I had the sidemount off I was trying to pull the licp from off the j-pipe to check the couplers, when I notice this: [1.6mb]
http://www.wikked.com/talon2/thinkifoundtheboostleak.mpg
For those too lazy to d/l, I could move my j-pipe side to side... the
allen bolts were also turnable by hand! wtf...I tightened them both 2½
turns...oof. See, the licp fitment is *so* tight with the sidemount on,
that I didn't notice it the other day.

I couldn't change the fuel filter... who designed that shit?
I got the top fitting off easily, but the bottom one? Impossible.
Even with the battery/tray/thing under the tray off, I got a wrench on the bottom fitting, blindly, and there's zero leverage at that point.
Ah well. It runs like a raped ape, I'm happy

btw, Seafoam + Restore = brand new car... wow.

 

[oldman]

I couldn't change the fuel filter... who designed that shit?
I got the top fitting off easily, but the bottom one? Impossible.
Even with the battery/tray/thing under the tray off, I got a wrench on the bottom fitting, blindly, and there's zero leverage at that point.

Get a flare nut wrench on the flare nut and an open end wrench right above it on the bottom of the filter. Situate it so you can give both a nice squeeze with both hands at the same time.

 

[w1kk3d]

heh yea, that's almost as good as the Chilton manual...
"Remove top fitting... then remove bottom fitting."

I don't think it's possible without taking out the battery support bracket & the charcoal cannister, and the battery bracket bolts are tucked nicely out of the way on the sidewall.
Maybe if my arm was C shaped I could get at them
I think it's alot easier on a 1g maybe?