rough idle and low low boost, no power, cel off, no boost leaks

[NWbryce20]

Hey everybody new to the site lease excuse me if I didnt post in the right spot. Just looking for a little help in diagnosing whats wrong with my car.let me give you a little background on the car. I bought it a couple months ago at an auction forr $800. needed some work from what i could tell, intiorer was pretty ratty and turbo was siezed car was very dirty and just did not look to be very well taken care of, was not able to test drive being an auction. After I bought it pulled off the auction yard and realized it had a major water leak. I got it home and started tearing into it found it was leaking out of the water pump pipe connection. I decided to replace the water pump with new one and did the timing belt, balancer shaft belt, idlers and tensioner at the same time. I also picked up a brand new 16g, 02 housing and tubular manifold for it, also have new plugs and wires . In the process of putting these things on I had the engine bay pretty much disassembeled to do some cleaning and painting and looking for any other problems where I found that the charcoal can had been eaten away by battery acid some of the wiring to the thermostat housing was burnt and broken. I fixed the wiring problem but i am currently runningwith no can, with vacuum lines run like the one from taboo speedshop diagram.

PS: CEL IS ON

PROBLEM:
I have the car running know after a while of tinkering and working out bugs but it still will not run right the idle is real low and when it is about to stall it will jump up to 1100 rpm, eventually it will stall out. the stock boost gauge show -7 at idle and when i accelerate it will only go to 0,it also studders a little on accel, thier is just no power. Ihear the turbo spool and i have done a boost leak test and came up with no significant leaks. the car was running on only 3 cylinders not getting gas to number2, possibly still doing this. I have tested fuel pump and many other things. I am new to turbo cars and right know this is beyond me. I do not know this has something to do with vacuum leaks boost leaks not enough fuel to much fuel wastegate, EVERYTHING IS IN TIME. and computer looks great

Any help would be much appreciated, I am at my wits end, Thanks

 

[dsmloverguy90]

You stated the cel was on?? wondering what the code is?? Also i would do a compression test too, sounds like a similar issue i was having not to long ago.

 

[manrightchea]

Do a compression and leak down test, should have done those before buying mods for it. You have to know what shape the motor is in before you can ever hope to modify it. Once you do those two things, if the issues persist, I would change your crank angle sensor. From there I'd start replacing the injector resistor box, coils, ignition transistor etc.

 

[95strandedDSmR]

Check the timing marks on the cams, line them up according to the Vfaq at VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions . I just solved this very similar issue with my newly purchased 95 tsi. Rough idle, sputtered, stalled, vacuum was only around 10psi at idle and next to no power during boost. Car jus ran like plain poop. Turned the cams to line up the timing marks with cyl 1 at TDC and my exhaust cam was off by 1 or 2 teeth. I made the adjustment and instantly the car sounded beautifull and pulled like a completely different car!

Regardless if that is the problem or not, you still want to perform these...

Leak down test, compression test, Boost leak test, make sure your cat is not clogged, all grounds are in good condition, clean throttle body and properly check TPS, IAC and other misc sensors that affect idle and airflow.

New plugs/wires get NGKs, maybe a fuel filter aswell. Fuel injector seals also are good at causing a rough idle/ boost leak.

You got alot of diagnosing to do, but slowly work your way through the possibilities. Im sure I forgot some things you should be doing but these are a few ideas for you. Goodluck!

 

[NWbryce20]

I have performed many compression tests on this car an got 155 across all 4. I picked up the 16g for next to nothing along with a walbro 255 included in the deal or i would have gone stock. I have not installed the fuel pump, probably wont for awhile. the stock manifold had 4 major cracks. I have also checked and rechecked the timing marks and they are spot on. I will try and retrieve the code as soon as I get new batteries for my multimeter deal. I did try a different set of coils and did the same thing. also a different ignition transistor. I have spun the cas 180 degrees with no change in how it runs I dont know if that tells you if it is bad or not, I was told it should run worse or not run at all if it was on the wrong side, but it does have power to it I and if i spin it by hand I can hear my injectors go in sequence as well as the coil. I had set of ngk wires and plugs in when it was doing this so I tried a set of magnecore as it turned both of those were bad so I got all new plugs and wires. And i just want to clarify this so me not having that emissions can will not affect anything, and has anybody else eliminated some of their vacuum lines and had any drivability issues. Thanks for all your Help and im still open to any other suggestions, tips, anything? Thanks i will run some more test tomorrow and I will post the results.

 

[velocitysport31]

check your coolant temp sensor and wiring you said that some of the wiring was messed up, that will cause you to run really rich, and throw a code.

 

[NWbryce20]

I had to replace it already, car would not start to begin with because of this problem, I spent 2 days trying to figure this stupid problem out. I had remembered i broke it pulling off the charred remains of what were wire at one time. the sensor i put in was off a 91 gs that I had layin around, would this affect how it runs they looked exactly alike?