LOUD squeaking/creaking when turning the steering wheel!

[PieEyedPiper]

This started out of no where about 10minutes ago.
I was sitting in a parking lot and I turned the wheel to back out of my spot and I heard a terrible, creaking, metal on metal kind of of sound. I drove the car to a friends place and it still does it when going over small bumps and when turning the wheel.

This is only the front right side.
Any advice would be appreciated this is my daily driver.

 

[xxrillixx]

first i would check the power steering fluid... Then the belt.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

It's coming directly from the right front wheel, not the belts or fluid.

 

[CanadianTSi]

Its your Balljoint.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

I showed it to my mechanic, we looked at it just one the ground and he's convinced it is the inner tie rods.

If it were the balljoint, would the wheel not have some play? I did the 12oclock and 6oclock etc test and the wheel seemed quite secure except for some minor play in the steering rack.

He says that its most likely the inner tie rod because of the blow rubber thing they have and its probably just old and cracked and now groaning.

He also says it is safe to drive.

Comments?
(I'm freaked if its a balljoint because mitsu claims there is NO recall for my balljoints and is it not true that people die from balljoint failures?

 

[jellyfish420]

I would doubt very seriously if its an inner tie rod. Inners don't really squeak when they go bad, its probably an outer tie rod. its whats called a dry socket.
It will be ok to drive. Most cars come with non-greaseable ball joints and tie rods, but one thing you can do is take a grease gun and get a U-joint needle, you can stick that right through the boot and fill it w/ grease. Turn the wheel from stop to stop a couple times and 99% of the time the noise will stop.

please note this is only a temp. fix/ diagnosis.

 

[jellyfish420]

If it were the balljoint, would the wheel not have some play? I did the 12oclock and 6oclock etc test and the wheel seemed quite secure except for some minor play in the steering rack.

And no not necessarily. I work in a shop that does suspensions, and you need to jack up under the frame & the control arm. (once each way) You also need to put a pry bar under the tire and pry up. Sometimes it will show one way and not the other depending on how the suspension is loaded when it is hanging from the car.

 

[KingAWD]

I think it is the same problem i have. I believe it is the outer tie rod.

 

[KingAWD]

Jelly fish is totally right, when i lube the outer tie rod the noise goes away. try putting some Wd-40 or grease, it will go away for about 3days, then come back.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Thank for the replies, guys.
I'm taking it in on monday for a suspension/chassis inspection so I'll get the full scoup. I would hate to replace a single component, align it and the have the other side fail, ya know?

The only reason I'm tweaking is that I'm taking this girl out tonight.. and if I kill her, her mom is gonna kill me twice.
And then my dog.

 

[Dream On]

Or just replace it for about $25 or so...Just mark on the threaded portion how far up the tie rod is threaded. Otherwise, you'll need an alignment. Though, getting an alignment isn't a bad idea after doing it anyway.

 

[jellyfish420]

I second the alignment...unless you've done alignments for a while. I can set toe by eye within .1 degree.

 

[siceclipse]

poor dog

 

[Merkles]

I had a similar problem and it was my balljoint. The boot ripped and it wasn't lubricated.

 

[Myles Long]

If it's not the outer tie rod then check the drive shaft CV joints. When they wear, usually from water and grit contamination after the boot rips, they will creak when turning. Good luck.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Thing is I can't detect a broken, cracked, split boot anywhere. I'm getting anxious to get this thing up on a lift.

 

[siceclipse]

its easier to tell if you have a torn boot if you cut your wheel all the way to one side and do a full circle in reverse.

i dont know why but you hear it a lot louder when you do that.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

The sound has since vanished.
I took the car in today anyways. We pryed and yanked and played with everything to find that the non-creaking side has 1-2mm of play in the inner tie rod end, and some slight play in the outer tie rod end. Nothing serious, life threatening, or even worth replacing.

The noisy side had nothing wrong with it, maybe .5mm to 1mm of play in the inner tie rod end. And similar play in the outer. Again no sign or source of the mysterious noise that has now vanished.

I had a dream that it was a tiny pebble wedged into something. Who knows.
Just wanted to say that it was resolved and that my tie rods have acceptable play and the balljoints have near none if any at all.

Thanks for the replies.

 

[zro2gon]

if that sound comes back that means that your lower lateral arms have to be replaced..### when you jack up the car then let it down it finds a dry spot which makes the creaking sound when you turn the wheel. the lower lateral arms were part of a recall on 2g's so make sure that it was done or not on your car.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Mitsu claims I have zero recalls for my car. I don't have much choice but to believe there are none, unless someone can prove otherwise.

All the bushings seemed all and well, except they were REALLY soft and squishy on the compression arms (both sides) (#4 in the diagram). But they will knock and rattle and such before the bushings are totally shot.

What part, exactly (in this diagram) do you believe is the culprit?
Thanks for your post.

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[kasper618]

I was just going through the same cituation, and my sway bar endlink was blown out on one end. I could hear it turning severly, and when I hit bumps slightly. Something to check out...

 

[zro2gon]

in the picture the lower lateral arm is number 6. the part where it bolts to the wheel assembly, number 3, is where the noise is coming from. have someone turn the wheel and put ## hand on the number 3 part and u should feel the vibrations when its moving. the recall was for all 2g eclipses. if they have none on file that means it hasnt been done so go to the dealer and get it replaced for free...the ball joint is dry so therefore it makes the creaking sound when turning or going over bumps and things like that.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Well mitsu disagrees with your statement and says there are no open recalls for my car.
But regardless, my ball joints are fine. My mechanic and I tested them myself, pry bar and all, after my initial hand test.

Also not swaybars. Had the car on the lift and checked almost everything.
It doesn't much matter now anyways since the noise is gone and the car checks out fine.
Though, maybe I should double check with someone about the recall. I noticed a page saying it is for automatics only (im manual).

 

[Artago]

Its your Balljoint.

I second that. Been there before (many times) the boot is probably torn. Fill it with the appropriate lubricant and when you have time/money replace it (the arm). Look closely, the tears can be tiny.

 

[wret]

It's most likely the ball joint on the lower lateral arm (6 and 3). This is the recall part. Mitsubishi will not like to replace them if they have been replaced already. Some have had success getting them replaced a second time.

When the ball joint dries up, it will exhibit a loud creaking noise on turning and suspension movement. This will happen before the clearance opens and causes other problems like looseness and failure but that will come eventually if you don't take care of it.

The part is cheap and easy to replace.