losing 1 quart of oil per 500 miles at 75mph

[AlaskanDsm]

So I just drove 4,000 miles from Alaska to Phoenix. I knew I had a small oil leak but not this bad. I finally got in this morning at 3am and here I am on the site trying to fix my car already.

Anyways, is it possible to be loosing this much oil through the oil cap? I have noticed over the trip that on the intake runners, there is oil literally filling the depressions inbetween the runners. There was no oil there before I left. I remember looking under the car before we left and I saw that the back of the oil oan was slightly wet but could't tell if it was a leaky seal or rundown from above.

I seem to only burn oil when I am boosting a lot or am in higher RPM with no boost but much higher oil pressure. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[booostedGSX]

Check for shaftplay on the turbo. Also, the valve stem seals might be suspect. I know mine are and cause lots of oil burning.

 

[JusMX141]

Turbine seal leaking on the turbo, valve cover gasket leaking on the engine, cam seals leaking.

I would also suspect valve seals....the valve seals from the last head I rebuilt from a car with 120k on it were so brittle they crumbled if you touched them. Bad valve seals will cause increased crankcase pressure which, in turn, results in poor turbo drainage and oil being pushed out the PCV and oil cap.

 

[AlaskanDsm]

I appreciate the quick replies!

I have brand new evo III 16G from slowboy racing. I know I'm not burning oil that way But after that drive, I'll check for saft play. Turbo sure does boost nice even at stock levels. Exhaust looks good. no blue smoke. Also, It is possible that my seals are leaking but the only thing I can think of that would be causing oil on my intake manifold would have to be from the top reart such as the oil cap or the valve cover.

I know that the oil is not an internal leak becasue I have a ton of it on the ground and surprisingly on my trip, somehow got to my driver's tire. Off the spokes, you can see a small oil trail on the rubber, looks like I have been brakeing extremely hard or something.

The only other problems I am having with the car currently is the AC compressor and the normal radiator fan keeps blowing fuses, The AC fan is working fine.

 

[JusMX141]

If it's oily on the driver's side of the car, you're looking at possible cam seals leaking or perhaps a bad oil filter housing gasket. Worst-case scenerio the entire front cover gasket is leaking.

 

[srpjosh]

It is very common for oil caps to leak oil. Expecially when it puddles in the valve cover.

 

[DSM1G90]

I had to do a front main crank seal on a 1.8L that was basically doing the same thing - soaking the driver's tire and a oil film on the side of the car.

Yet, afraid that bad seal cut a microgroove in the crank itself for the seal replacement didn't completely stop the leakage.

 

[AlaskanDsm]

If it's oily on the driver's side of the car, you're looking at possible cam seals leaking or perhaps a bad oil filter housing gasket. Worst-case scenerio the entire front cover gasket is leaking.

So it would be where the cam shaft gears are coming out of the head correct? I can check on that. And I can look at the oil filter housing but I remember cleaning that and it wasn't leaking the last time I checked. And when you are talking about the front cover gasket, what is it that you mean exactly and how bad is that to replace? I just rebuilt the engine about 8,000 miles ago. Thats why I am inquiring about these things.

I am hoping that it is just the oil cap leaking in conjusctin with my breather leaking. I am going to also look into my PCV to make sure it is working correctly.

 

[TRBOBLU]

Check the turbo oil feed line also. I spun 2 rod bearings before I finally located that leak

 

[mikelv]

You can find where the oil is coming from pretty easy.

I would clean/wash things up as much as you could all along the front case, oil pan, rear main, cam seals, valve cover, intake, exhaust manifold, everything you can.

Let it dry then start the motor and watch all over with a drop light. It's good to get the car on some jack stands so you can see up on the oil pan and front case.

Good sign of a front case leaking is oil all over your pulleys and timing belt. I'm sure you still have the timing cover on there so it might be more difficult. If you can get inside there and see it'll make it a lot easier. 9 times out of 10 you'll find your leak(s).

Also, get yourself the OEM non-fancy silver oil filler cap, that is the best one when it comes to not leaking.

Don't waste your time guessing by the results of leaking. Clean the motor real good and catch it in the act.

Another suggestion would be to use the ultra-violet additive that most mechanics use. I really perfer not to, but you can get that stuff at NAPA. Just add it to the oil, then after a couple days of driving, it'll reveal itself under a black light.

 

[AlaskanDsm]

Well, I went to Checker yesterday and got some brakeclean, hose clamps, and anarobic sealant for the valvecover. I took the spark plug cover off and I had oil under the cover and it got into one of the spark plug holes somehow. I tried to get it out but rags were too thick to get down there. I hosed off the head and other places I could find any oil. Is is possible to get a wrench or something on the oil feed line of the turbo to make sure it's tight? Do I need to take the shield off or can it even be done with the manifold on?

I took the top timing cover off. The camshaft seals look good and dry and the side of the block looked ok. I cleaned everything up and put the voers back on. I took off the oil cap and took it apart. The gasket was pretty hard but I took the little arms and bent them up slightly, reassembled and felt somewhat tighter but should replace the gasket for better seal. I also crimped the dipstick tube... just in case.

Last I bought the hose clamps becasue I bought a fuel filter to put on the breather to keep oil out of my new turbo and I think the filter might be getting clogged and leaking at the breather because there is residue next to the breather. Anyone have any reference how long the FRAM fuel filters last?

Today I am going to try and put the sealant on the valve cover and spark plug wells. Does anyone know how much oil can go into the cylinder and be ok. Its probably not too much more than a couple capfuls from a quart bottle. Hopefully by doing this, I can help to eliminate any more leaking from the top.

I will also check for shaft play and see if the turbo has been having any problems but so far so good.

Mikelv, What oil cap are you talking about? I would like to take a look at it. Thanks for the advice as well. Oil always start from high and ends up low. I took the car to a car wash.. But it needs another one before all the oil will come off...

 

[AlaskanDsm]

If it's oily on the driver's side of the car, you're looking at possible cam seals leaking or perhaps a bad oil filter housing gasket. Worst-case scenerio the entire front cover gasket is leaking.

When I looked into this and realized what it was... i wanted to hate you for saying that haha. I really hope that this isn;t leaking as I just rebuilt the motor and where that seal is. But otherwise thankyou for the info.

 

[just90gs]

You can find where the oil is coming from pretty easy.

I would clean/wash things up as much as you could all along the front case, oil pan, rear main, cam seals, valve cover, intake, exhaust manifold, everything you can.

Let it dry then start the motor and watch all over with a drop light. It's good to get the car on some jack stands so you can see up on the oil pan and front case.

Good sign of a front case leaking is oil all over your pulleys and timing belt. I'm sure you still have the timing cover on there so it might be more difficult. If you can get inside there and see it'll make it a lot easier. 9 times out of 10 you'll find your leak(s).

Also, get yourself the OEM non-fancy silver oil filler cap, that is the best one when it comes to not leaking.

Don't waste your time guessing by the results of leaking. Clean the motor real good and catch it in the act.

Another suggestion would be to use the ultra-violet additive that most mechanics use. I really perfer not to, but you can get that stuff at NAPA. Just add it to the oil, then after a couple days of driving, it'll reveal itself under a black light.

+ 1 on that this would be your best bet.

 

[Rob10_99]

+1, start with a warm engine(not hot) and give it a good cleaning. Then go hunting.

 

[AlaskanDsm]

where can you get a drip light at? Are they expensive... If I start spending too much, my girlfriend is going to get upset that I am spending our savings money on my car haha. If it's too much, I'll just have to live with a flashlight ans my eyes.

 

[Rob10_99]

I think he meant drop light, a good bright flashlight is what you should have anytime your under the hood =)

 

[AlaskanDsm]

oh... DUH! Totally thought he was referencing to like a fluid detector. I thought I had just heard about the greatest invention ever. Oh well. I usually use a flashlight... Wow, I just really feel that dumb right now... *sigh*. But thanks.

 

[AlaskanDsm]

ok after being delayed on being able tow rok on my car for a freaking week due to weather being in the 110's and school, I finally pulled the valve cover and pulled the gasket out including the oil plug gaskets. I had bought some blue RTV to coat the rubber gasket in the valve cover. After I was going to put it back on, I got to the top right (looking at your engine bay) corner of the VC (near the oil cap) and that bolt was stripped...

So I need to fix that now.. ARG! Anyways, Since I have taken the oil cap apart and bent those tabs up to apply more pressure, I haven't seen the same kind of oil leaking. I thinkg I might still be leaking some but That might have been a major source of the problem.

I haven't had the chance to check for shaft play yet but I plan on doing that hopefully today.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[mikelv]

Not sure I ever wrote "drip" light anywhere?

Anyway, man did you say you're going to reuse a valve cover gasket?

It's shitty to say but you're going to have to break down now and spend the 30 bucks for a new one. OEM gaskets are $48.00, but FeltPro will do for $30.00 to $35.00.

Valve Cover Gasket by Felpro - Part 3213943 - Advance Auto Parts

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If it's leaking, it's worn and RTV isn't going to help you brother. Sorry but it's just the characteristics of rubber, nothing you can do about it. Reused gaskets just don't cut it. The only thing you really need RTV for is to hold the gasket in place when you replace it. A little bit on there won't hurt but the seal is from the gasket.

Sorry lost contact with you for a minute. Here is a picture of that oil cap: It

Oil Cap by Stant-BP - Part 6090419 - Advance Auto Parts

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This is the one you need, 8 bucks and will never leak on you.

For the stripped bolt, you're going to need to take care of that. As long as that's loose, then you'll never seal the cover completely.

 

[AlaskanDsm]

Yes I know I have to take care of that bolt. As for the gasket, still in generally good shape and the rubber wasn't broken, cracked, warped, or hard. I can't afford to get the new gasket right now so the RTv will have to do for now... And It never looked like it was "leaking", just oily residue around the split. I swear that this car is going to be the end of me sometimes.

as for the parts and part numbers, thank you! I appreciate it. I will deffinetely look into those. And about the "drip" light thing.... Just erase that from your memory.. That was the worst case of brain fart I have ever seen, heard, or encountered.

 

[Hardin]

You have examine closely where the oil is leaking/burning. The possibilities are almost endless. Oil pan, turbo, etc. Gotta get down and dirty.... You'll find something.

-Hardin