The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

1 quart in 1,500 miles

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

2FST4U

20+ Year Contributor
201
0
Mar 11, 2003
I am stumped. Plugs are nice and tan, no smoke at start up. no smoke at idle, no smoke at full throttle, no leaks, were the hell is it going? I just bought this car in march. CAI, Exhaust. Nothing else messed with. No check engine lights on either. I do run it hard 5 - 6750 rpm shifts.
any input would be appreciated.
 
I am stumped. Plugs are nice and tan, no smoke at start up. no smoke at idle, no smoke at full throttle, no leaks, were the hell is it going? I just bought this car in march. CAI, Exhaust. Nothing else messed with. No check engine lights on either. I do run it hard 5 - 6750 rpm shifts.
any input would be appreciated. This is also posted in the problem forum but I wasn't sure were to go with this.
 
How many miles on the engine? Compression test results? Leak-down test? It's probably going past the rings. If you're running that hard a lot of the time, you'll be rebuilding soon.
Have someone follow you while you're driving, you don't always see your smoke in the mirror.
 
85,000 miles

Did not do compresion test, and I will do a search...... Leak Down Test?

damn thing runs good. I should be going to the track this weekend.
 
did a search what is a leak down test?

at 85,000 How soon to a rebuild or replace do you think. Again driven pretty hard. Not alot of city driven but avg 90 - 110mph for 35 minutes every day. at 100 I'm at about 4,750 rpms.
 
Not to be a dick or anything, but if you sprinted alsmost as fast as you could run for 35 minutes, would'nt you be a little dehydrated when you were done?

The engine was not design to run close to 5g's for an extended period of time.

Oil does thin out when it gets hot, and at that speed you may have a little bit of blow-by past the rings.

I drive about the same amount of time a day, when i drive hard (3700-5000 RPM's) for an extended time, I find that I am adding oil more often than usual.

85,000 Miles is just a break on a DSM, IF TAKEN CARE OF! Even if you rebuild the engine, your still gonna be missing oil if driving at those RPM's

just ease of the throttle for extended times and your find your oil level top out :thumb:

:talon:
 
Originally posted by 2FST4U
did a search what is a leak down test?

at 85,000 How soon to a rebuild or replace do you think. Again driven pretty hard. Not alot of city driven but avg 90 - 110mph for 35 minutes every day. at 100 I'm at about 4,750 rpms.

A leak-down is where they pressurize your cylinders and determine at what rate they're leaking- checks the valves and rings both. Not to be confused with pressurizing the intake tract to look for boost leaks.

That's really hard use for an American street car. And I agree, it's probably the reason for so much oil use.
 
I have a 2000 wrangler sport with 37" tires 7" lift and it runs ok.

just got this car not to long ago and its a blast to drive. I guess

I should grow up a little and keep it around 70mph. The thing

just flies once you hit about 60 or so then it takes off. thanks for the

info. One more thing, Castrol good to use? What do you guys use?
 
I doubt it's from your driving habbits (although that's not helping I'm sure). These guy's that have advised you so far are turbo owners, with a different motor. More than likely you have a blown Head Gasket. Check under the car for oil sludge on the tranny. It will leak right down onto the tranny from the offending bolt hole where they all seem to go. I bet your driver side rear bolt on the head is where it's all going out past the HG. When you look under the car it will be on the side of the tranny case. Run a compression check and post the results. Is there any oil in your coolant, or vice versa. The other thing to remember is that the 420a does eat oil with no telling where it goes. So those high RPM's may just be doing it, but I want you to check for the BIGGER problem before it gets worse. You have to watch your oil in this car.
 
Kirby thanks a bunch!! I just had the head gasket, t-belt, assy belt changed about 2 weeks after I bought the car in march. You are right that is were it was leaking before. I can't see any signs of leaks. I'll try driven her easy for a couple weeks and see what happens. to do a compression test, you can by the gage at a parts store am I correct?

No oil or coolant mixing going on.
 
My car burns a lot of oil also...down to a quart at 3000 miles. I do drive it hard at times...car still feels brand new but yea it burns oil like it's going out of style. But yea...check your head gasket and it's a possibility that your rings are goin too...my car has about 88K on it...but like what everyone else says, try easin up on the driving habits and see if that makes a difference...35 minutes at 4500 is kinda crazy on any car...
 
yea pretty self explanatory LOL...if its that litlte oil u woldnt be able to tell...if it were like 150 miles per quart you'd see ...it'd look like u filled up with diesel or somtihn
 
In response to kirbys reply, I am not a turbo owner. hehehe, but i would be nice.

If your head gasket is blown remember, the compression will suck and i wont "throw you back" at 60 other than to sputter like a turd.

I run Pennzoil High Mileage 10w30 in the summer and pennzoil 5w30 in the winter. my advice to you is forget what the guys say about the light weight oil and run the 10w30. it will increase your oil pressure (especially if you like to play) but 10w40 would be a little heavy.
ive been running the pennzoil and havent had any problems to make me want to change oil brands and i'm at 165,000 miles on my talon.

Castrol seems to be a good oil though :thumb:

:talon:
;)
 
Originally posted by ravage_talon
Not to be a dick or anything, but if you sprinted alsmost as fast as you could run for 35 minutes, would'nt you be a little dehydrated when you were done?

The engine was not design to run close to 5g's for an extended period of time.

Oil does thin out when it gets hot, and at that speed you may have a little bit of blow-by past the rings.

I drive about the same amount of time a day, when i drive hard (3700-5000 RPM's) for an extended time, I find that I am adding oil more often than usual.

85,000 Miles is just a break on a DSM, IF TAKEN CARE OF! Even if you rebuild the engine, your still gonna be missing oil if driving at those RPM's

just ease of the throttle for extended times and your find your oil level top out :thumb:

:talon:


pretty much on point here
 
you probaly are just burning it but not fast..whats the mileage like on the car?..what kind of oil are you using?..whens the last time the filter was changed?..more output please..:)
 
Using synthetic?? You can't see it burn like regular oil. Used to have an old mazda beater, smoked like 1 quart every 200 miles. Wanted to trade in, dealer said fix the smoking i'll give you $800. Took it home drained oil added 4quarts Mobil 1.........No more smoke.

Double diagnosis from Lycoming county. Twenty where the car??
 
I burn oil when i start it up. My car has 140k on it and I end up putting in about a quart and some between oil changes. My 1.8 sees 5500 rpm fairly often but i just shift around 3000 driving around town. Oh and my oil pan was leaking but i think i fixed it.
 
My car has the same problem, I just check it once every other week and add a 1/4 to a 1/2 quart. Think of it like this, at least you will always have clean oil. As long as you check it often and keep it topped off you'll be fine. I get my oil at Costco because its hella cheap, and our cars are know to go through a lot of oil.

Oh hey my brother has a 90 turbo laser and he burns the exact same as you and me so don't worry about it.
 
i got 130,000 on my GS. it burns oil just like the rest of 'em. i find valvoline, castrol, napa, mobil, and even texico brand oil to be best. the reasons i do't like q-state, pensoil, havoline, as well as several others, is their base ingredient, perifin, or in lay man, detergent. a good ash base oil, like valvoline, will take a hell of a harder beating than pensoil! obviously if you want the best protection for your engine, use synthetic. synthetic has better resistance to thermal break-down, viscosity break-down, as well better heat disapation. this is a collection of useless info i've picked up along the way, hope some of it is helpful...OMG
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto STM Tuned

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 1g coil pack
    Used 1g (91-94) coil pack and bracket. One stud to mount the harness is broken, but still has...
    • RamenPride
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 4G63 OEM Balance Shaft Delete Kit
    OEM Balance Shaft Delete Kit $40 + shipping and PayPal fees* includes crank spacerYou must...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Evo viii fuel pump
    Used Denso Evo 8 fuel pump. Similar flow to the Walbro 190. Plug n play for 2G's. Been...
    • RamenPride
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Hatch Weather Seal ( no rips or tears )
    2G Hatch Weather Seal $45 + shipping and PayPal fees* no rips or tearsYou must be...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2GA Eclipse Fog Lights & Brackets
    2GA Eclipse Fog Lights & Brackets $70 + shipping and PayPal feesYou must be registered to see...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top