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Mielo5280

Proven Member
41
12
Aug 29, 2019
Wheat Ridge, Colorado
I was wondering if anyone could look over this log I got and give me feedback. I did a pull from 2nd to my redline in 3rd. My redline was set to 6500 cause I let a friend drive it a while back and didn't want them to rev it too far out before the car went down for work. The cars build list is up to date. I have completed multiple boost leak tests and have squashed every one I can find with soapy water at about 20psi till my 1g bov opens. I use 91 as it's the highest I can get around my area in CO. I realize my throttle cable isn't fully adjusted properly since I replaced the throttle body gasket the other night with not adjustment so my WOT only shows 93% at max.

The car was down for a bit while I rebuilt the motor. Currently running a small 16G, PTE 780cc injectors and a 255 pump. When I reinstalled the motor, I installed my bunk upstream o2 sensor that was laying around, so I have been trying to get Narrowband Sim set up and working. I realized that requires link to log the wideband correctly, so I have been at a battle trying to get the AEM UEGO to log properly in link. I think I got it as close as it will get. It shows within a .01-.02 difference between what link sees and what the gauge shows. I have an omni 4 bar map sensor hooked up in preparation for SD.
 

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  • 2nd-3rd gear pull.elg
    47.3 KB · Views: 58
Zero out your MAF slider
You're not logging MAP sensor & IAT
I'd lean out open loop area's in maxoct table to at least 11.0

I am logging my Map sensor but don't have my IAT sensor installed yet. I installed a new front narrowband sensor and it helped my idle out significantly. I knew it would, but I was trying to get Narrowband sim working without spending more on a new sensor. I zeroed out the maf sliders. I attached the new 3rd gear pull below.
 

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  • log.2021.01.08-04.elg
    46.1 KB · Views: 37
You really need to get your throttle perfect before your start messing with wot pulls. However, I believe the concept with the MAF tuning is you go through your pull looking at your "MAF" value in hz, and at each hz you look at your wideband factor and increase or decrease the maf sliders accordingly. For example, if at 1000hz your wideband factor is 9% then you add 9% airflow to your maf slider. keep doing this until your wideband factor is as close to zero as possible during your pull. However, again, I have never tuned a maf car so please take my advice with a grain of salt and do your own research.
 
That’s correct except I don’t think it’s 1:1. MAF is so easy even a caveman can do it. FIX YOUR THROTTLE, do another pull and post it

If the cable tension is good, open link and start a stream. Then push the throttle to the floor and release. Right click on the screen and you’ll see tps adjust.
 
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My throttle cable tension wasn't set properly. I fixed it, and readjusted the tps. Link now shows 100% throttle. I wasn't able to get a good low rpm to redline pull like the first two, this was as I pulled onto the highway from 2nd to 3rd.

I have been slightly adjusting the 50hz maf slider, using this page recommended by a friend.

Let me know if there is anything else I am able to fix. I will be doing another low rpm to redline 3rd gear pull tomorrow while I head into work.

Thanks for everything so far.
 

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  • log.2021.01.12-06.elg
    19.3 KB · Views: 33
I have my wideband logging under the "AEM UEGO" I attached a screenshot of what my screen looks like. You can see the Wideband in column 1, row 6 on my screenshot. Too be honest, I'm not sure what a good AFR to target is under WOT except anything under 11:1 from my understanding.
 

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  • Screenshot (1).png
    Screenshot (1).png
    179.6 KB · Views: 36
It's because we run different WB's. If you see my log, you won't be able to see my WB either. Every engine is different, some like it leaner than others. Start with 11.0 then. Load this to your maxOct table. Do a WOT pull and lower the MAF slider (WOT area) to get your WB as close to target AFR. It'll never be exact so get it as close as possible. MAF slider should be smooth.

Get a wot pull in 3rd gear to redline
 

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  • openloopMaxOct.eda
    15.5 KB · Views: 39
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So I was able to load the map tonight and do a few pulls. Both were decent, good pulls. The 3rd gear only pull was on an open straight road, the 3rd-4th gear was pulling onto the highway. There's a few things I'm curious about. First is where exactly in the maf sliders is wot? The 1000Hz+ area? Second, under the 3rd-4th gear pull I notice the KnoockRet starts to spike through both gears, but not the first 3rd gear only pull. What would cause that?

I've been reading on how to tune with link and understand a good bit of stuff, but not everything. I'm not trying to fully tune the car, just get it close enough to not lean out while I find a decent tuner in CO.
 

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  • 3rd gear only pull 11afr.elg
    161.9 KB · Views: 26
  • 3rd-4th gear pull 11afr.elg
    27.2 KB · Views: 28
Look at your MAFraw and that's the Hz frequency it's reading. In your 3rd gear pull, it starts around 600hz. It's not too much knock 2* but you haven't tuned AFR's yet so it should go away once you dial that in. If it's still there, you can pull timing. I adjusted the MAF slider so load it and take another rip.
 

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  • MAFComp.16-01.ecm
    4.7 KB · Views: 27
So I don't know what happened and I'm honestly really confused, but my throttle position wasn't going to 100% again. I rechecked everything and reset the cable tension again to make sure it's correct. I will go out and do another TPS adjust to get it set for sure. Then I'll redo this one, but I have attached the log with the adjusted maf sliders anyway. I just wanted to preface that I know there was an issue and will fix it. I appreciate all the help you've given me so far.
 

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  • log.2021.01.16-04.elg
    46.3 KB · Views: 36
I watched the video and things made some decent sense. I fixed my throttle and did a few more pulls. I pulled this out of the cruise I did home from work.
 

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  • 3rd gear.elg
    21.7 KB · Views: 24
Looking better. Once you get the WOT dialed in, pull 3% global and raise those sliders a bit more since your LTFT is -5%. Then do another WOT pull. If everything looks good, do some cruise tuning and then idle tune or vice versa.
 
Looks pretty solid. Keep in mind that you should always adjust the throttle when the car is fully warmed up, otherwise, the metal expands and things can get slightly out of whack. Even on a well-setup car you'll get the tps voltage jumps to 0.65 etc which is totally fine. The throttle looks good to me.
I watched the video and things made some decent sense. I fixed my throttle and did a few more pulls. I pulled this out of the cruise I did home from work.
 
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