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Long, noobie wastegate questions..

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The line going to the turbo is the outlet pipe. You said I have to tap into it?
The pipe going to the turbo is the intake pipe, the pipe that comes out of the turbo which lead to the intercooler is the "turbo outlet pipe", this is where you drill and tap a 1/8npt to 1/8" fitting and use it as the pressure source. If memory serves, you don't have a FMIC so you should already have a fitting on your stock outlet pipe, are you sure you don't have one? Furthermore, in case if you didn't read the exchange between Daren and I, make sure you're using the NC port on the AVCR solenoid, not the NO port.
 
The pipe going to the turbo is the intake pipe, the pipe that comes out of the turbo which lead to the intercooler is the "turbo outlet pipe", this is where you drill and tap a 1/8npt to 1/8" fitting and use it as the pressure source. If memory serves, you don't have a FMIC so you should already have a fitting on your stock outlet pipe, are you sure you don't have one? Furthermore, in case if you didn't read the exchange between Daren and I, make sure you're using the NC port on the AVCR solenoid, not the NO port.

I installed a FMIc a couple months ago. Even my stock one didn't have a fitting on it. Maybe it was also replaced.
 
I suspect that was the case with your internally gated EVO3, if so, I don't think you will see that kind of spike with your 3052/Tial 44.

No, I was actually refering to the control with the 3052 & Tial 44. It didn't have a "normal" spike as it lasted for the first 1000 rpms then dropped. When I ran the evoIII it too saw 3 or 4 psi spikes, but it looked like what I would refer to as a "normal" spike, just a very short over shoot, maybe 100 rpms or something.

Looks like the OP is running an Ebay FMIC, I would imagine a short route? Probably best/easiest to tap the lower IC pipe (the first pipe after the turbo out) with a 1/8 NPT barb fitting, like Bruce has mentioned for you new, proper boost source.
 
No, I was actually refering to the control with the 3052 & Tial 44. It didn't have a "normal" spike as it lasted for the first 1000 rpms then dropped. When I ran the evoIII it too saw 3 or 4 psi spikes, but it looked like what I would refer to as a "normal" spike, just a very short over shoot, maybe 100 rpms or something.

Looks like the OP is running an Ebay FMIC, I would imagine a short route? Probably best/easiest to tap the lower IC pipe (the first pipe after the turbo out) with a 1/8 NPT barb fitting, like Bruce has mentioned for you new, proper boost source.



Actually i'm running a long route :notgood:
Should I tap the outlet pipe or LICP? Does it make a difference?
 
Daren, don't you have a "tap your j-pipe/licp) thread that you can link him to? :D

daren_p said:
No, I was actually refering to the control with the 3052 & Tial 44. It didn't have a "normal" spike as it lasted for the first 1000 rpms then dropped. When I ran the evoIII it too saw 3 or 4 psi spikes, but it looked like what I would refer to as a "normal" spike, just a very short over shoot, maybe 100 rpms or something.
You really are special. ROFL
 
I remember there was a tapping your j-pipe thread but I can't find it, I know Daren was in it though. :D
 
It won't make much difference between those to places (if any at all). I have used both before when I was running an evoIII on different IC setups. Its best to take off the pipe to drill & tapp so choose which ever one is easier to remove or which ever one allows you better access to the nipple with it installed so its not a big job if you ever have to swap a hose, etc.

You want to use a 1/8" NPT threaded barbed fitting (works much better the 1/4" NPT for small diameter pipes) & depending on where you get it from (can get from Home depot or automotive places like autozone, etc) the barb portion may be available in different size. Just go with what ever works with the size of vacuum line your using. Drill a hole using a R drill bit (preferred) but if don't have that size can also use a 8.70mm or an 11/32". Then run an 1/8" NPT tap through it & install the brass barbed fitting. When I did mine I silver soldered it in position, so zero chances of leaks but seems alot put JB weld around it, with good results & a nice air tight seal.
 
It won't make much difference between those to places (if any at all). I have used both before when I was running an evoIII on different IC setups. Its best to take off the pipe to drill & tapp so choose which ever one is easier to remove or which ever one allows you better access to the nipple with it installed so its not a big job if you ever have to swap a hose, etc.

You want to use a 1/8" NPT threaded barbed fitting (works much better the 1/4" NPT for small diameter pipes) & depending on where you get it from (can get from Home depot or automotive places like autozone, etc) the barb portion may be available in different size. Just go with what ever works with the size of vacuum line your using. Drill a hole using a R drill bit (preferred) but if don't have that size can also use a 8.70mm or an 11/32". Then run an 1/8" NPT tap through it & install the brass barbed fitting. When I did mine I silver soldered it in position, so zero chances of leaks but seems alot put JB weld around it, with good results & a nice air tight seal.

Will do! I'll get on that tonight so tomorrow I can make it down to Etown. Thanks Oldman, and Daren, and everyone else for the help..
 
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