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Long, noobie wastegate questions..

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Your setup isn't so different. It should be just like oldman has posted or what I posted earlier, which is exactly what in the AVC-R manuel. You don't need the 4 port vacuum block 98mitsuGSX-SD is talking about. This is basically just a different connection metod to achieve the same end results.

If the car is seeing unlimited boost after swapping the hoses, either you have explained how the car was setup before swapping hoses wrong, or because the settings that have been programmed into the AVC-R when it was connected wrong are now not correct (duty may be way to high) so it will seem to you that the WG is no longer opening.

Believe you said you were using a 15psi spring? If so, thats the base pressure I run on my Tial 44 external, so I would think our duty cycle settings would be pretty close. My rpm duty cycles range from 53 to 56% which gives me 25-26 psi. Believe you were looking for around 20 psi so your duty should obviously be less, maybe around 40%.

Duty was at 60%, but wouldn't that cause over boosting?
 
Duty was at 60%, but wouldn't that cause over boosting?

Yes, that should cause over-boosting which isn't that exactly what you said happened when you swapped the lines to the WG, like I told you to do? If this is the case more then likely its working fine, the reason why the WG didn't seem to open for you is with the duty cycle set that high, you would probably have run close to 30 psi. I'm assuming you let off before this, which is why you were thinking it wasn't opening. If this is the case, like I said keep it hooked up the same way I told you to & reduce that duty down to more like 40%, you'll probably hit around 20 psi set there. Or if your just trying to figure out if its hooked up correctly or not, can reduce the duty even more so your boost will be even lower & give you enough time to let off if its not working properly. Another simple test (& actually where you should have started from) is to switch the boost control to off in the main menu. If you have the controller hooked up properly, this will prevent the controller from doing anything & you should just see you base WG spring pressure (~15psi). If you do see this, your connections are fine & its your AVC-R settings that need to be changed, as I mentioned.
 
Yes, that should cause over-boosting which isn't that exactly what you said happened when you swapped the lines to the WG, like I told you to do? If this is the case more then likely its working fine, the reason why the WG didn't seem to open for you is with the duty cycle set that high, you would probably have run close to 30 psi. I'm assuming you let off before this, which is why you were thinking it wasn't opening. If this is the case, like I said keep it hooked up the same way I told you to & reduce that duty down to more like 40%, you'll probably hit around 20 psi set there. Or if your just trying to figure out if its hooked up correctly or not, can reduce the duty even more so your boost will be even lower & give you enough time to let off if its not working properly. Another simple test (& actually where you should have started from) is to switch the boost control to off in the main menu. If you have the controller hooked up properly, this will prevent the controller from doing anything & you should just see you base WG spring pressure (~15psi). If you do see this, your connections are fine & its your AVC-R settings that need to be changed, as I mentioned.

I turned my Setting [Off]. And my Wg works fine.
 
Good to hear. I'd reset the AVC-R & go from there (& tune the duty down alot from 60% :p ). There may be settings in there that won't allow the unit to work properly since you changed the way its hooked up to the proper method (things like self learning, if its turned on, etc.).

Be advised, I did switch the WG lines like you said I should, and set boost to 1.15 bar (20% duty) . I hit 1.25 bar, and WG did NOT open. Even though I rerouted everything, I still can't boost above 15 psi. I'll reset the setting anyway, and see what happens.:(
 
Daren, are you sure his post# 48 diagram is correct? I'm not so sure as the diagram is kinda confusing, it doesn't even say top or side fitting on the wastegate. And why is the pressure source still coming from the manifold and not the turbo outlet pipe? Something is not right.
 
I'm sorry but that is not correct either, I don't know the in and outs of the AVCR so I can't give you the whole picture but these are the basics.

1. The pressure source should coming from the turbo/j-pipe, not the BOV line nor any manifold pressure (ie the line behind the TB).

2. The pressure source line from turbo/j-pipe should be T'ed, one side of the T should go directly to the side port of the wastegate, the other should go to the AVCR as EBC pressure source.

3. The outlet (manipulated pressure) of the AVCR goes to the top port of the wastegate.


The pressure sensor should be connected to the compressor housing since you said the pressure source line. The pressure sensor is what reads and triggers the AVC-R solenoid to open and activate the WG.

So why in your new diagram is the pressure sensor behind the throttle body where you told me it shouldn't be?
 
The pressure sensor should be connected to the compressor housing since you said the pressure source line. The pressure sensor is what reads and triggers the AVC-R solenoid to open and activate the WG.

So why in your new diagram is the pressure sensor behind the throttle body where you told me it shouldn't be?

He meant it has to be connected to the boost source I think.
 
The pressure sensor should be connected to the compressor housing since you said the pressure source line. The pressure sensor is what reads and triggers the AVC-R solenoid to open and activate the WG.

So why in your new diagram is the pressure sensor behind the throttle body where you told me it shouldn't be?
You're mixing two different pressure sources, one that goes to the pressure sender, which is used to activate the solenoid is simply a pressure sensor (like a GM 3bar sensor) and can be connected to the manifold which reads the same pressure as your boost gauge. With that said, this pressure source can also come from the compressor housing, the difference would be a slight adjustment via the main unit. Another reason why you might want to connect the pressure sender to the manifold is that the instructions seems to imply that this value can be logged via your ECU, much like a MAP, therefore the ability to be able to read vacuum as well as boost can become helpful.

The other pressure source however is a different story, it goes to the solenoid and is physically bled off (manipulated) before being sent off to the wastegate, the bleed off process is the reason why it shouldn't be on the BOV line nor manifold, it should come from the compressor housing due to the possible ill effects I've cited in previous posts. I don't know why you deleted your last diagram because it was correct. I didn't say anything because I was not sure whether the ELECTRONIC signal from the pressure sensor is sent to the main unit which in term triggers the solenoid OR it's sent directly to the solenoid. From reading the instructions briefly, it seems to suggest that it does both.
 
Ok so where should I source vacuum for my BOV. I had it teed off one of the lines. Should I keep it this way?
 
Ok so where should I source vacuum for my BOV. I had it teed off one of the lines. Should I keep it this way?
No, you return it back to stock with a single dedicated line going from the BOV to the intake manifold fitting right behind the #3 injector. If this is the same fitting as your so call "fitting behind the throttle body", then connect your pressure sender source to either the "p" port on the throttle body (this is the fitting I thought you were referring to because it goes to behind the throttle plate) OR tap it off the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) line, same line that you're using for your boost gauge, also the same line as what is shown on the top right corner of 98mitsuGSX-SD's diagrams.
 
No, you return it back to stock with a single dedicated line going from the BOV to the intake manifold fitting right behind the #3 injector. If this is the same fitting as your so call "fitting behind the throttle body", then connect your pressure sender source to either the "p" port on the throttle body (this is the fitting I thought you were referring to because it goes to behind the throttle plate) OR tap it off the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) line, same line that you're using for your boost gauge, also the same line as what is shown on the top right corner of 98mitsuGSX-SD's diagrams.

Ok I got it, maybe i'll head down to the shop if the rain calms down a little bit. FWD+Mass water supply = NOT GOOD :nono:
 
1. This is getting frustrating, how is that diagram the same as mine? :confused::mad:

2. You didn't just disconnect the line going to the FPR and boost gauge and use it solely for the pressure sender did you?

3. Where is your BOV line connected to?
 
1. This is getting frustrating, how is that diagram the same as mine? :confused::mad:

2. You didn't just disconnect the line going to the FPR and boost gauge and use it solely for the pressure sender did you?

3. Where is your BOV line connected to?

No i Teed the line going to the FPR

And my BOV is connected to the "p" port on my Tb.


Sorry for the frustration I cause, but If it doesn't work now, I'll run 15 psi for the rest of my life.:sosad:
 
No i Teed the line going to the FPR

And my BOV is connected to the "p" port on my Tb.


Sorry for the frustration I cause, but If it doesn't work now, I'll run 15 psi for the rest of my life.:sosad:
1. Why are you not using the fitting on your turbo outlet pipe? Do you not have one?

2. Where is your boost gauge connected to?

3. Is the electrical signal wire connected to the solenoid and the AVCR main unit?
 
1. Why are you not using the fitting on your turbo outlet pipe? Do you not have one?

2. Where is your boost gauge connected to?

3. Is the electrical signal wire connected to the solenoid and the AVCR main unit?

I don't have a fitting on my outlet pipe...:(

And yes the wire Is connected in both spots.
 
breath....oldman.....breath :D

Where is it connected to? Make sure you didn't f'ed it up when tapping the FPR line.

Ok the line fell off, i found it

Thanks for the help, lock this thread. I'll take it to professionals on the weekend.
 
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