Locked out of all gears

[coupe_nasty]

So I've been having an issue with getting locked out of all gears lately. When it first started, i was able to have a friend push the car from behind slightly while i was sitting inside attempting to engage 1st gear and after a small roll, it would go right in. Then eventually that wouldn't work anymore. The weird thing is that once the car is into any gear, it drives and shifts perfect. I can even stop at a red light and put the car into neutral, and back into any gear. Its not until i shut the car off again and restart it that the whole issue happens all over again. I have adjusted the clutch engagement point according to the Jacks transmissions video on you tube. Also I've tried bleeding the clutch as I've heard that it could be air in the line but if that was the case, how would it be shifting perfect once into gear?

 

[bastarddsm]

Sounds like clutch is junk or to failing. Get a buddy to help and measure how far the slave end of the fork moves when he pressed clutch. Also pull the fork boot and look in there for any signs of trouble.

 

[coupe_nasty]

Clutch is a southbend kevlar. only about 5k miles on it.

 

[Geeb]

@twicks69

I would message him. He's helped me out more than a little bit.

Then again, @bastarddsm has helped me out too when it came to transmission choices... With the amount of different combinations he's been through you better believe he's got knowledge , So you're on the right track to figuring it out.

Good luck. Sporadic problems are the worst

 

[twicks69]

First off, are you having shifting issues with the car off, or running? What is the measured range of motion of the clutch slave cylinder rod? Where is the clutch fork resting at? Is it offset to the driver-side? centered? offset to passenger side? Did you use a new clutch fork and pivot ball? Did you properly install the throwout bearing clip?

Where is the clutch engaging / disengaging? What is the range of this when you are pushing the pedal down before it disengages, and when coming up from the floor where does it engage? Knowing this window will help figure out where to start from.

As well, have you already checked your front and rear motor mounts? 2g's are notorious for torn mount bushings. As well, you should have already checked ALL of your M10 bell housing mounting bolts including the M8 mounting bolt through the back of the block into the transmission. Have you already checked the condition of the shift cable bracket bushings and confirmed the cable bracket is tight with the shift cable retainer clips are installed and the shift cables aren't having any issues? Have you checked the shift select lever on the transmission (the one that bolts to the bell housing) and confirmed your bracket bolts are tight and the condition of the shift lever pad is good and not causing issues?

With the transmission, are there any known issues or noises or symptoms that your gearbox currently has? Mileage on transmission? Gear oil being used? When you are having shifting issues, is it with a warmed up transmission, or with a cold transmission?

Does your intake pipe or anything else contact the shift lever assembly on the transmission? Anything hitting the lever or the counterweight? By the shift lever inside the car, have you pulled out the center console area and actually checked the shift lever assembly, pivot bushings and pivot itself? The pivot likes to break the spot weld over time and / or hard shifting and can cause issues.

With the clutch pedal assembly, check for bushing wear or sloppiness in the pedal assembly. Check that the clutch master cylinder is tightly bolted to the firewall. Check all the hydraulic lines from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder. Pull back the boots on the master and the slave to see if there is any visual leakage? If you pump the clutch pedal several times, does it then shift better? If so, that is typically an inner piston seal on the clutch master cylinder causing issues. Check your fluid level of the clutch master cylinder. Use FRESH brake fluid; ideally synthetic DOT3/4 fluid. Brake fluid is extremely hydroscopic and will degrade over time and will cause issues if it is moisture contaminated.

Start with these things to check first before clutch adjustment.

 

[Geeb]

@coupe_nasty

I would def do everything he says. Good luck.

 

[ChessmoDSM]

@coupe_nasty

I would def do everything he says. Good luck.

Agreed, Twicks69 has probably forgotten more than most know about manual DSM Transmissions, if there is a GOD of the DSM stick, it is that guy..