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Locked out of all but one gear at a time?????

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BoostedBeaver

Moderator
957
291
Aug 15, 2009
Augusta, Georgia
Ok here it goes.

After a new motor, new tranny, and some front end work the car went back together. Got it started and I still have a few bugs to work out, but I wanted to make sure the tranny would act accordingly.

So with the motor off I might be able to get into one gear at a time. Running is no different. Once I can get into one gear, I crank up the car, I depress the clutch, slide it into that gear, and start to release the clutch. The clutch begins to engage 1-2 inches off the floor. On a side note the car is on four jackstands!!!!:aha: Once I get the wheels rolling I can depress the clutch and change to a gear, but I have to hold it at the "door" and wait for it to fall in.

I did the test first to make sure the clutch is disengaging all the way. I put it in gear and rev the car to 5.5k or so and no movement. I slowly release the clutch and sure enough it engages.

With the method of shifting gears I have gotten in to all gears at one point or another.

Things I have done:

New ACT xact flywheel ( I was stupid and did not double check the step height, but engagment seems to be fine)
New ACT 2900 with SB TZ/FE disk
New OEM flywheel bolts torqued to spec with red loctite
New OEM clutch bolts torqued to spec in small incriments to prevent damage
Alignment tool was used
New OEM TOB
New OEM Clutch Fork
New OEM Fulcrum
Dowels installed
starter plate installed
all bolts installed and torqued to spec
Oem master and slave

I checked the pedal assembly and can not pull up on the pedal at all and everytime I move the pedal the master rod moves.

I adjusted the rod in accordance with Jack's video on his site.
The shifter cables where adjusted to fall into the correct postions
The clutch was bleed using team rip suggestions

I have done my reasearch and it just seems I am coming up short. If you have any questions, suggestions, thoughts, or ideas it would be great. I can pull it this weekend but would like to rule out as much as possible before then.

Thanks in advance.
 
Robert, sorry I didn't pick up the phone last night, I was busy with other things. I still think it is a few things including:

*The potential of disengagement issues with the clutch disk dragging internally on the flywheel side (step height with the old style TZ/FE SBC disks tends to work best between 0.612"-0.617"; I just had the disks revised in May 2011 to a thinner friction surface on the flywheel side of the disk to get it back down to using a 0.610"-0.612"-stepped flywheel)

*An internal assembly problem (if you are having issues shifting the car off/on with shift cables detached manually shifting the transmission into a gear)

*Clutch hydraulics issues (maybe an internal seal got wrecked during the rebuild of the master or slave cylinder).

*Clutch adjustment issues (maybe needs more adjustment of master rod - may be not fully disengaging; maybe needs less adjustment of the master rod AND a flywheel step check and adjustment to a higher step like 0.617").

Can you get it into 1st or 2nd and actually drive it? Or at least get it in one of those gears and run the car for a bit in the air rolling in gear to get some gear oil movement through the passages? Assembly lube makes it a sticky shifter for the beginning while the gear oil works its way through the oiling passages.
 
Thanks Tim for the advice. I will try to drive it some tomorrow (raining today). Thanks for the reply and I will let you know how it turns out.
 
I would like to know what the results were for this, I am actually dealing with the same problem. The pedal I fixed by replacing the pedal assembly. But I replaced the same stuff and cannot get full clutch pressure and the car will not go into gear.. Its saddening, I've tried everything..
 
master rod , start with the rod almost fully out just a couple thread in ...try adjusting from there
 
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