Lifter Tick won't go away after oil change

[Clinical]

So I bought this car last thursday for $700.
Runs great, nothing wrong with it aside from this annoying ass lifter noise which is common. It's just a 1.8L, and I know they are known for being more tick-happy than the 4g63's even.

However its getting a bit much with this thing.

I've had a 1.8L before, and it ticked a lot on start up and went away when it warmed up. It also ticked for about 50 or so miles after each oil change.

This car had the typical cold-start lifter tick and went away as it warmed up.
I changed the oil today and have put about 100 miles on it, and it hasn't quieted at ALL or gone away at all. Usually it goes away in the higher rpm's, I've taken it up to redline a couple times now after the oil change and it still doesn't go away.

I don't understand why its SO loud and will not go away after an oil change.
The only thing I can think of is the heavier weight oil not moving up the lifters as easily.

I'm assuming it had 5w-20 or 5w-30 in it. I'm running 10w-30 in it.
I'm thinking I'll throw some Lucas in it and see if it has any effect.

Just wondering if anyone has any insight as to anything else I could do / check for.
Oil pressure is always perfect, drives fine - just drove it 2 hours total (about 100-140) miles after the oil change already and it did great, but still ticking away.

 

[Boostinsideways]

I would seafoam towards the end of the oil change. If that doesnt help, get a set of topline revised lifters.

 

[gusu]

The reason you have lifter tick in the first place is the OEM lifters had extremely thin oil passages, like mentioned before the revised lifters are probably the only thing that is going to help.

My car ticks... all the time. It is super annoying and everyone who has owned a Chevy thinks its because my motor is about to blow which gets annoying hearing shit from people who don't know dick about cars.

 

[90_eclipse]

NEVER USE OIL ADDITIVES. Some may disagree, but this is my personal moral belief...


I have the OEM lifters still in my car, and I hardly (if any) get lifter tick even when I used 10w-30. But really, you should be using thicker oil... try 20w-50 oil (kendall 20w-50 natural with added zinc from autozone is what these DSM's loveeeeee)

 

[Clinical]

Keep in mind guys this is just a N/T 1.8L daily driver.
owners manual lists 5w-30, but i prefer 10w-30.

Both of my turbo DSM's have had lifter tick, but not to the extent of either of my 1.8l's - it's a simple fact they tick worse than the 4g63's.

However I'm just trying to figure out while it's ticking so much more nonstop now since I changed the oil.

 

[JusMX141]

Unless one of the lifters is collapsed, I don't see it being related to the weight of the oil alone. The difference between 5W30 and 10W30 is not as substantial as the difference between 5W20 and 5W30, basically because of the oil's warm weight.

What filter brand are you using? I believe the filter has a greater effect on oil pressure than the oil weight itself.

 

[Clinical]

driveworks filter.. just what we had on special at my work (advanced auto).

In fact I saw an increase in oil pressure during driving after the oil change.
Car sat for 2 years until I bought it on Thursday for $700, oil was dirty as hell.

 

[Lofty]

New lifters!
Apparently you don't have to take the rocker assembly all the way out and you don't even need to bleed them.




*Apparently*

 

[JusMX141]

If the car has been sitting and the oil was really dirty, then no doubt some sludge or some other foreign material has made it's way into one of the lifters and possibly has the plunger stuck down. Put some SeaFoam in the oil and drive the car a while, then change the oil and filter again....consider using a diesel-grade 10W30 once the engine is clean to prevent future sludge or deposit problems.

 

[shockracer]

Try an OEM oil filter! Kinda funny simple but it works.

 

[DSM1G90]

Doing lifters on a 1.8L is childs play to do since you don't have to worry about the bleeding thing as you do with 4G63's...and you only have 8 of them to change out.

Took me all but a half hour to do lifters and my 1.8L is just as quiet as a ghost. ..but, "PHEW", did the thing clatter before the oil got pumped up to quiet them down right after the install.

But, true - 10w30 is the oil to use in these motors. 5w30 is a bit too thin and you do smoke right at startup on a 'seasoned' motor.

 

[CanadianTalonTC]

I agree with the OEM oil filter.

At work the other day we were working on a Honda CRF 150 with a new engine, we pulled the VC and started it and nearly no oil was reaching the head. After installing a stock oil filter it was spraying madly like it's supposed to. Worth a shot.

Joel

 

[DSM1G90]

(Fun comparing a motorcycle motor to a car motor..) .. but true, worth a shot.

 

[jimmythesaint]

Forget additives, or switching to 20w-50 oil or changing the oil filter. There is only one part you need to change and you already know what it is. THE LIFTERS. After sitting for so long and probably poorly maintained by its previous owners the factory lifters (known for issues to begin with) just flat out need to be replaced.

Simple job on a 1.8

 

[cj062989]

To make things simple:

1. ALWAYS TOPLINE
2. GET NEW LIFTERS
3. ALWAYS BLEED LIFTERS
4. SCREW SEAFOAM
5. ALL YOU NEED IS A FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER AND A SMALL RUBBER MALET
6. ROCK OUT

THE JOB IS VERY EASY TO DO JUST MIGHT TAKE SOME TIME

 

[bertrenolds]

driveworks filter.. just what we had on special at my work (advanced auto).

In fact I saw an increase in oil pressure during driving after the oil change.
Car sat for 2 years until I bought it on Thursday for $700, oil was dirty as hell.

Signe me up for a $700 awd 92 laser

And screw the guy with 11 posts talking shit about sea-foam, it just might take some time and a torque wrench so you don't crack your valve cover which I am guessing you and several people on this forum don't own a torque wrench. You should change your oil again since autozone always has $19.99 oil changes but before you change it get a can of sea-foam. I does work, obvioiusly replacing the lifters would be better but this isint that bad either.

1.As a pre service cleaner for old oil residue, sticky rings or valve train noise, pour 1 ½ ounces of Sea Foam® Motor Treatment into the engine oil crankcase for EACH quart of oil capacity, including filter. Drive a MINIMUM of 30 minutes/miles, MAXIMUM 100 miles, and then do your oil change service – Lube, Oil & Filter (LOF). This begins the process of safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. This also makes your old oil dirtier, quickly, so a LOF service is necessary when the oil gets dirty. Great for Turbocharged & Supercharged applications where oils deteriorate so quickly due to heat, and leave those residues that NEED CLEANING.

2.As an after service additive into fresh oil, nearly fresh oil, or oil (used condition) that is NOT ready to be changed (based on mileage since last oil change), put the same amount of Sea Foam® Motor Treatment into the crankcase as described above, and then regularly monitor your oil for color and clarity. Set a predetermined schedule for checking the oil condition on a mileage, timed, or event basis (like every time you add fuel, etc.) to determine when an oil service is necessary. Monitoring of the oil for color and clarity will tell you when it is time to do an oil change service. NOTE: Do not exceed 3,000 miles without changing the oil.

 

[honda_burner]

I love how every thread on here always ends up off topic or in an argument about something stupid or both
Everyones got an opinion which is the purpose of this forum. Its up to the op to determine what he chooses to listen too and what is b.s.

 

[Junfan]

Get a stethoscope from Harbor Fright or the like. Listen up and down both sides of the head. A dead lifter is easy to hear. I just did this exact thing and found a dead/dying lifter on the intake side of piston 3. I decided at that point since i had used head from someone else to spend the 90 bucks and do the topline 3g lifters but could probably have done just those 2 and been done with it. I was seeing phantom knock from this at partial throttle and that started me looking in the first place.

 

[SLIDER121]

Seafoam is ok, I find using berryman b12 works the best. The lifters are probably sticking because it sat so long, give it time to loosen up. Diesel fuel in the crankcase works, but if there is any sludge in the engine it will loosen that as well which could clog your oil pick-up screen. I have done it before and did a hot oil change and it worked. (If you do this a cup of diesel fuel in the crankcase and run it 10 min. then do a quick oil change while the engine is hot.)

 

[Junfan]

I know I am a new guy but adding anything to oil and cycle it through the motor sounds like a bad idea. I could be completely wrong and have never tried such a thing.

 

[DSM1G90]

Shoot, cleaning out a block with 1qt of ATF, 1 qt of kerosene(or diesel fuel) and 2qts of oil and let it run in idle for 10 minutes then drain does more wonders than that SeaFoam spray can stuff ... definitely rids of varnish residue.

 

[Rocketman1000R]

+1 on the Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil when you change the oil. If that doesn't work then clean and blead them or replace them.

 

[Clinical]

Shit so I forgot to come back to this thread pretty much? And to the one dude, this isnt an awd 1g for $700. Its a 93 eclipse 1.8L DD.

Anyway, the other day I went ahead and put seafoam in it, have about 50 miles on it now with the seafoam, going to change the oil at 100. The lifter tick is pretty much gone except on initial startup, it worked like a dream.

 

[bertrenolds]

Shit so I forgot to come back to this thread pretty much? And to the one dude, this isnt an awd 1g for $700. Its a 93 eclipse 1.8L DD.

Anyway, the other day I went ahead and put seafoam in it, have about 50 miles on it now with the seafoam, going to change the oil at 100. The lifter tick is pretty much gone except on initial startup, it worked like a dream.

cj062989 "4. SCREW SEAFOAM" That's what I was talking about and for $6.50 actually if you buy sea-foam from menards or fleet farm it is worth a try as apposed to replacing the lifter for $100 and then using a crow bar back yard mechanic style to replace them. It may not completely get rid of the sound but it sure as hell will get alot of sludge and varnish out of the engine since it's been sitting forever.

 

[Clinical]

I've always been very skeptical towards most all additives but I happened to have some seafoam on my shelf from years ago, threw some in and it worked great.

I'm happy with it.